Inspiration and memories

Relax with some Trans-Himalayan inspiration. Jamie's carefully selected photos of most previous treks are organized into Flickr collections by region/topic and alternatively simply by albums, more in the works too. Lose yourself!

All Flickr Albums — region/topic collections

Dolpo Crystal Mountain

Across old Dolpo before it's gone. The oh-so-turquoise Phoksundo Lake, Shey Gompa and thriving villages feature on our adventurous route to Jomsom.

25 Aug-28 Sept, 35 days — camping

Markha High *Singapore

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek then explore the wild high country for a wonderfully balanced adventure!

Lunar eclipse bonus!

30 Aug-14 Sept, 16 days — Jamie-Esther
Members: Ching Hong, Edwin, Jo, Jolanda, Doris, Siok Fun & Christine
Crew: Lobsang, Kunga, Dorjee, Kaji and Ram Lal + Madi with 12 horses, Pema with 9 horses

So much for Ladakh's famed glorious trekking weather, but what a fun trek despite the rough weather. A few days prior to our trek, Ladakh had light but steady rain for 60 hours and so plenty of landslides and road closures. Could we even get to our trek start? Yes, but it was MUDDY!

Despite rain on and off for the next nine days, we dodged getting wet (other than boots) while trekking and found a couple of good, new-to-us campsites. Cards, Singapore snacks and chat ruled the camps. And the eclipse? Not visible through the thick cloud that night, oh well.

At last, the monsoon cleared and the oh-so-fine days began, with chilly nights. We finished with glorious panoramas over the Lalung La and Chaksang La, then an adventurous exit to Lato.

Zanskar Skypacking

Trails less trekked. Backpacking is carrying all your own gear and camping out in the most amazing wilderness but our twist is resupplies by Lobsang. Swap dirty for clean so rough it yet treat yourself!

20 July-20 Aug, 16/32 days — backpacking — Jamie
status: full
Ryan, Jenn, Carolyn**, Jim Twiss***********, Serge** & Hannah*** with Bali
Resupplies: Lobsang and Dorjee
Spiti driver: Sanju Vikas

The endless sublime panoramas were beyond awesome, really truly some of the best trekking on the planet, and great camping too. Each of the four sections was special in its own right and the homestay resupplies were also cultural, stepping back in time to a period where you could not book online. Instead, simply wing it by turning up...

We were lucky with the weather, some showers, some cloud but also many fine periods. This is typical of the season. With the warmth, we could pack light making for light loads for some of us. This was my first true UL (ultralight) backpacking experience (thanks in a large part to Jim Twiss) and it won't be my last.

This itinerary was basically the best possible and would suit a private group with Bali (and/or perhaps Kunga?) helping out.

And the Spiti road trip? See below...

Zanskar Jeep Safari

Accompanying our backpacking trip but without the trekking, instead taking you to the highlight villages by comfortable jeep.

20 July-20 Aug, 32 days — Lobsang
Phil Whitwell*******, Chris Straw and Esther

Accompanying the backpacking, this was a travel trip harking back to the 1980s, prior to internet booking and the pressure of good reviews (although these pressures have increased standards, of course). The homestays were simple and authentic, a bit of roughing it, sometimes dormitory-style, without attached bathrooms throughout Ladakh.

Oh, Wanla Gompa and others were a surprise. Freshly painted on the outside but still the millenia year old authentic interior. Priceless. 

Lobsang handled the varied logistics and roads under construction with aplomb while Esther kept "her Maj" and Phil sharp playing bananagram.

While the homestays were basic, this was a great adventure and there is lots to see and do in Zanskar, and I still recommend...

And the Spiti road trip? This started well, stunningly scenic, but landslides meant a few nervous days as we passed one cleared slide to another. We received little rain, the weather was OK where we were but areas near us were hammered. The alternatives (via Manali, or back to Leh to full flights) were is worse shape with greater risks so we persevered. We reached Shimla with half a day to spare however the changes were not over yet though as the toy train was suddenly delayed and so we took one last taxi ride to Kalka and caught the Delhi express train from there. August was particularly wet, far wetter than usual and Manali plus Spiti were really hammered and continued to get hammered until early Sept, I really feel for the locals who lost cash crops and some even their homes. It was a convergence of several weather systems that stalled, and so will not be the new August normal...

Phil Whitwell became our oldest trekker although I won't let the secret out, yet still joined us for one night of a backpacking section and was keen enough to be guided around Singapore by Esther too!

Markha Passes private

Two trekker friends trek the best Markha Valley itinerary with the wilderness end.

21 July-11 Aug, 22 days — Kunga

Changthang Passes *exploratory

New temptations and classic camping in a surprisingly remote part of the Ladakh Range.

25 June-18 July, 24 days — +Jamie and +Esther
Members: Jim Twiss**********, Ian** & Deborah, Sam, +Yoko (and ...)
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Bali and Ram Lal + Madi with 12 horses
Logistics: Lobsang with Tashi, Ang Chuk and Tsering

Just to say thank you from both of us for such a memorable trek. Going over my journal I've been struck by how often I noted days as being both "tough" / "hard" and also "v good walking". Which is about right, I think. Plus spectacular, remote landscapes.

- Ian

The trek of unlikely passes. I've longed to return to the region since my 2013 explorations and climbs, and it didn't disappoint. The first surprise after our (rather tough) warm up trek was an unexpected altitude gain because rough roads have been pushed in further and further. Thank goodness nobody suffered, so we explored around to catch up on acclimatisation.

The second surprise was far more interesting. I have long wanted to cross the high Gongma La (Mike and co did in 2018; I missed that trip because of an aging parent), but what made more sense after some exploring, was the fact there are two separate passes heading into different valley systems, yet only a couple of hundred metres apart. The Gongma La marked on maps is more likely called the Babdo La. The Gongma La (higher pass) and the Yogma La (lower pass)/Yar La/Thugla La both lead to Chibra, which makes more sense.

It was a satisfying day for Yoko, Sam, Jim and myself. The day after this exploration, we tackled a peak and rather than following my longer but more gentle route, we took the Bali direct route which was somewhat punishing. Only Yoko (her personal best!) plus myself and Esther topped out. But what a glorious panorama!

After a resupply, next up was the Yar La, as on maps, but the most common name used was the Tugla La/Thugla La. A hidden trail lead to the top, less rocky than 2013, and this opened to a truly martian landscape with snow mountains around. Another satisfying pass and incredible panorama.

At the grassy plains, we rested and watched cute voles from the breakfast table. No milking yaks this time but watching life from the camp and feeding the camp dog was fun enough.

Heading around for the recrossing of the Ladakh range, a toughish day in the arid Trans-Himalaya suddenly turned to a green oasis doksa for camping. Similarly, the following day. From a distance the Gun La looked steep and particularly unlikely but once I rubbed noses with it, a small but rock-cleared path opened up, and less steep than it first appeared. It was ~5700m high though, a breathtaking scene unfolded at the top, with multiple glaciers and a turquoise lake. Satisfying! Heading down, the route appeared unlikely and steep was still very doable. Our rest day afterwards was showery and cold, but perhaps better than walking in that. Thank goodness Deborah skipped this pass, but she soon joined us again.

After a quick but useful transfer by vehicle from road beginning to road end, and an impressive marathon by ponies and Ram Lal + Madi, we were in position to tackle a less demanding pass. What followed from Tiri/Teri was a gorge of death or skeleton valley, with bones seemingly everywhere (and wolf poo). Huge heavy argali horns still attached to a complete spine was a highlight find. No wonder the animals in the valley seemed wary.

Ascending the Kyamri La, we were surrounded by a magical landscape of subtle colours and textures with ever shifting light. Most hilariously, on top of the pass, a darting pika almost ran up Esther's trouser leg, darting from a pika cave to the piled pass stones. A drama with a horse was solved to end on a good note, and an easy drive to Leh.

*This was Jim Twiss' tenth trek with us, and he isn't finished yet!

Ladakh Passes

The Markha Valley is a classic yet homestay trekkers have to skip the highlights. We know and love the area so explore in the domain of blue sheep, which we have seen on every trip, and wolves which we have seen on some. We end with a dramatic pass which drops us into an enchanting valley with sparkling streams for a refreshing wilderness end.

6-26 June, 21 days — Jamie & Esther
Members: Virginia***, Flo & Ashim and ...
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden and Ram Lal+ Madi with 12 horses
Logistics: Lobsang and Tashi

With the Pakistan-India spat prior, Leh was almost empty when we arrived, for a change.

After long flights, people often arrive in Leh looking/feeling a little rough. I don't worry about this but for one member this didn't improve over two days and they ended up in hospital where I took care of them until they were recovered enough to fly home. For a busy public hospital in India, the service was efficient and very good and I must thank the professional staff. The moral for me, is if someone has one clear thing wrong, be it diarrhoea or low sats, then we try to fix. However when their symptoms are more varied, less clear cut, then it is time to visit specialists.

Esther and the team headed out without me, and I was unable to catch up due to the altitude jumps required, so instead Jamie stayed in Leh working on other projects.

Virginia, Esther, Flo and Ashim had a great time and saw lots of wildlife, including argali and urial, which are less often seen, and the usual plentiful blue sheep. After, Flo and Ashim went exploring in Zanskar with Kunga.

Tsum & Manaslu *private

A private group trek beginning with timeless Tsum then the classic Manaslu Circuit with a few additional days - no rush!

30 Apr-25 May, 26 days — lodges
Bire Tamang - Bali Lopchan
status: full

Well, wow!! Many thanks to you and the team for an absolutely awesome trek!

... loved every minute of it! What I felt really made it was the side trips, the main trail is great no doubt, but the side trips were not to be missed. We were passed by several groups racing along, and I just thought, you won’t be seeing what we do.

Bali and Bire are classic leaders, I would recommend them highly, they helped me with my Nepali language, went out of their way to help others.

I think I was the only one not to suffer some sort of sickness, I guess the bugs don’t like me. Two felt the altitude over the pass a bit hard, but ok, I put that down to the fact they both had colds. The last highlight was the stop at Bandipur, even though we did not see the sunrise, thick fog!

Ritesh did a great job of communications in Kathmandu.

When we arrived at Hinang Gompa there was traditional dancing in progress, costumes and masks, we didn’t expect to see that. ... is a professor of dance, that will live with her forever.

...

- Jim Morrow

Just wanted to say I was very happy with your company and how well run the trek was. I have been in small business most my working life and really appreciate when I observe the effort put into a business with the result of such a well run enterprise such as our trek. The variables needing to be met day to day and logistics behind the scenes in such a remote enviroment due to weather, accommodation and food availability, trek members ability/health etc are clearly considerable and I was impressed with how well our group was managed You (project himalaya) are awesome and so are your team... who I note most have been with you a very long time.

- R Clark

Everest Spirit *private

We revel in the Khumbu with no fixed itinerary while Jamie finishes updating his guidebook.

Late Mar-Apr — lodges — Jamie McGuinness

And, yes, we found a good trek route. Details in the coming new edition of the book!

For me, trekking in the Khumbu in April is out, after two years in a row of disgusting air pollution. Also, the region is at or over holding capacity in a number of ways, and so I hope my guidebook update will slightly assist with this. Let's see!

Waku research

There must be a better quick yet cultural way into the Everest region than the troublesome Ramechhap to Lukla flight.

12-18 Nov — Jamie+Esther

And, yes, we found a good trek route. Details in the coming new edition of the guidebook!

Kanchenjunga North-South 6k

Epic! Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal and on this special version of the trek, we walk up Jamie's favourite very high viewpoint of the region.

25 Oct-20 Nov, 27 days — lodge trek — Bire Tamang
Members: Andy & Cathryn and one more

Jamie says: I have some work to do in one area but I'm glad the trek went so well.

We had an excellent trip from airport pick up to airport drop. Extremely well organised throughout and Bire, with his knowledge of the area and his contacts, made it a seamless experience on trek - whether it was booking hotels or arranging jeeps, he worked tirelessly to make sure we had the best possible trip. Taze was also excellent- a mind reader! - especially at mealtimes, he always anticipated what we might need to ensure we enjoyed our food. Bire and Taze make a wonderful team.

We were pleasantly surprised with the quality of the lodges (and porcelain toilets - a change from our last trip 20 years ago!). The food was good quality, fresh and no one on trek was ill - 20 years ago that was unheard of!

The trek itself was amazing and we are so glad we chose to do this particular one. By the number of new lodges being built, it is clear that locals are obviously expecting it to become more popular. We were very lucky with our timing in avoiding large groups at lodges and were blessed with superb weather when it really mattered at the higher altitudes- having extra days for flexibility made all the difference in terms of enjoyment.

Bire and I discovered a superb viewpoint above Selele, which I can unreservedly recommend, especially if people have missed views of Jannu earlier in the trek due to bad weather - see photo. Cathryn suffered with altitude sickness above Kambachen and had to go back down with Bire, who handled the situation brilliantly. The lodge owners at Khambachen and Ghunsa were really kind and helpful. She fortunately recovered in Ghunsa and was able to enjoy the rest of the trek without any issues. The younger porter, Pulba, was helpful in accompanying Cathryn on a morning’s walk near Ghunsa (the steepish climb towards Selele) as suggested by the lodge owner, to aid acclimatisation.

We were also surprised how beautiful it was walking through the forest, which made for a lovely contrast with the higher elevations.

The only little niggle we had was at the end with tips. We followed your guidance but unfortunately the guys were expecting more and Bire approached me the following morning to explain they were expecting a fixed amount. I then had to explain to him using your email so that he could explain to the staff. It was not that we were not happy with their service (they were brilliant throughout) but we had exchanged enough money as per your guidelines and set it aside for their tips so the extra they were expecting we just did not have. We worked through it and I hope it was just a misunderstanding on their part, but it was a rather awkward end to a fantastic trip.

Thank you for all your excellent pre trip info, setting up such a great itinerary and for allocating Bire as our guide. He was professional throughout, inspired confidence and was such good company.

So many things have changed from my last visit over 20 years ago (mobile phones and scooters!) but the special people and friendliness is still there.

- Andy Binns

Rupina La, Tsum & Manaslu

Opening with the wilderness camping Rupina La route in (avoiding roads) then we'll continue in lodges to delightful Tsum then take our time and get off the beaten track around the classic Manaslu Circuit.

8 Oct-8 Nov, 32 days — camping+lodges — Jamie McGuinness
Members: Sandi B***, Susanne, Thomas**, Jim Twiss*********, Phil Whitwell******, Craig P, Greg Weston***
Crew: Bali, Aiteram, Dawa, Kaji, Ram (Bali's son), Samir (Aiteram's son), Ram and two more

I had a really great trip, thank you. It was a nice group ...

- Greg Weston

Wow, this turned out to be a fabulous trek. After scouring weather forecasts, I bailed on the camping trek section and instead we began with a drive to Barpak then drove up to the viewpoint. We had a great mountain panorama but soon it clouded in, and for the next few days, we could see cloud sitting on the Rupina La, no views even though no rain either, so the decision was the correct one, and this also inspired the "Beyuls" itinerary.

En route to the main circuit, we met no other trekkers. Even for the first few days on the circuit, having hit a (permit) window with very few other trekkers, at least until we were in the upper section of the Tsum Valley. This area truly is a delight, both scenic and cultural. Sadly, where we camped in Chumling in 2023 had been hit by a mudslide from the late Sept 2024 rains but only a wall was knocked down and the tons of mud was being carried out of the lodge. So, the main structure was not too damaged. The delightful wooden lodge nearest to us in Chokang Paro in 2023 had burned down and the owners had rebuilt using a quick prefab system, which was quite OK while her smile was priceless.

The entire Tsum experience was a highlight, both culturally and scenically. From cold, drafty Mu Gompa, we ascended to the lake above, which would make a great camping spot. We made it to Lungdang Gompa this time with a sweaty trek up to be rewarded with an incredible panorama of mountains surrounding us. The walk further up the valley is tough though, requiring a guide who knows the way and some camping. The gompa is far enough for most.

Then we split, the porters and most of the team taking the usual trails back to the circuit (although via Ripchet) while Jim, Bali and myself took the adventurous way that I swore twice to never do again. With appropriate warnings, in 2023, Bali, Justin, Bruce and Kaji had a memorable but tough trek over however, this time, Bali knew where to camp. The sheer valley walls were staggering, and the panorama from the Mandala viewpoint even more so. The surprise for Bali was that the trail improvements didn't end there, rather continued down to Dorjan Kharka. While the trail is still steep, it is no longer as treacherous, at least in good weather.

The rest of the trek was excellent as well, and by the time we reached Lho and Shyala, we were tiring, so had a few easier days here. Our eyes weren't given a rest though, with the endless striking mountain views. This was the first time I crossed the Larkya La without snow. While other groups else left before 4 am, we woke at 6, breakfasted at "Cafe Bali", and still beat the majority of trekkers to the top, thanks to our fitness from the longer trek. On the way out, I finally got to Bandipur, which lived up to its relaxing reputation. We had a delightful time there with a fabulous sunset and sunrise.

And Phil who trekked the 2023 trip then this similar 2024 version? He loved it and makes the record as our oldest trekker at 77 years old. Congratulations.

Shey Festival

Every 12 years, there is a colourful festival held at Shey in Upper Dolpo. Thriving villages feature on our adventurous route in and the oh-so-turquoise Phoksundo Lake on the exit.

12 Aug-13 Sept, 33 days — camping
Members: Jim Twiss********, Nadia H, Kevin and Peter
Crew: Bali ...

After date changes, the weather was great and the whole experience wonderful. The small lesson is ambitious treks are best with previous Nepal trek experience. Jim commented that Dolpo is best in this August-early September season, although the proviso is be prepared for possible week of rough weather, if you are unlucky. He loved the crops in the fields and the relative warmth.

I've been negligent in telling you how great a time I had on the trek you designed.

- Nadia

2024 Zanskar GHT *exploratory

India GHT exploration; we traverse the Zanskar range then cross the Great Himalaya Range to Spiti and road-trip out to Shimla. Our unique route is a medley of striking landscapes, mesmerizing panoramas, remote villages and sublime big sky wilderness.

18 Aug-4 Oct, 48 days — Jamie McGuinness
Members: David W***, Martin Cook**, Greg Babbage, Martin R**, Peter M**
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden and Ram Lal+ Madi with 13 horses
Logistics: Lobsang

Perhaps best called the GZT (gee-zee-tee, the Great Zanskar trek), this is a classic long distance route.

A couple of years ago, our 36 day itinerary was a little ambitious so we shortened the trek. This time, we allowed more time for this grand traverse of the Zanskar Range. The varied scenery was as impressive and as gorgeous as I remembered near the Pangpo La. We successed in crossing the pass that no other trekkers have ever crossed recently and that late September weather was simply delicious with day after day of warm, perfect weather. The only cloudy day was crossing the intimidating Parang La. It is a weather window and an area that we must explore again.

The challenges were varied and more than expected. A fit previous trekker struggled unexpectedly (cause, still unknown) then I made a mistake by camping in an area where the water was contaminated more than our system could handle leaving a few people sick and quick cures from the med kit proved ineffective. So, a couple of people ducked out at Sarchu. Apologies. However, Greg who has previously trekker the GHT in Nepal, after arriving less fit than perhaps he should have been, soldiered on to finish the trek in style.

Our overland exit to Shimla was a delight and inspiration to trek a few alternative routes out there sometime.

Wild Yak 6k

In 2023, my passion for the HIGH area between Tso Kar and Tso Moriri was reignited by finding a wild yak graveyard and some straightforward mountains begging to be climbed. And those panoramic landscapes - oh!

17 July-13 Aug, 28 days — ++++Jamie McGuinness
Members: ++Mike Farris****, ++Will Bright**, +Andre Giguere** and +UH
Crew: +Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden and Ram Lal+Madi with 12 horses
Logistics: Lobsang

High! Even with sound acclimatization, this was perhaps a little high for a couple of trekkers, however we did satisfyingly summit a bunch of 6000m peaks and had a great time with ranging explorations. The weather was variable, as the monsoon raged south of us, however with days allowed, we didn't need to change our itinerary. Only some of us saw the wild yak skulls though. Mike was perhaps the luckiest, waiting on a rock for us at the base of a pass, five wolves passed relatively close to him and he had his camera out.

Everyone summitted Mentok III and some summitted more peaks, including the prize Mentok II. There was more wildlife and our Mentok base camp was a pika delight. They soon became familiar with us, chasing each other around in front of us. Then we discovered a well disguised bird nest only a few metres from our tent. I do love the area as one of endless captivating landscapes and surprising wildlife.

Lastly, Mike, myself and Esther enjoyed a more leisurely but still four day backpack than we had originally planned. We saw wolves hunting and found yet again that there are endless possible camping places, most complete with cute pikas and voles. I so love the panoramas around Nakpo Gozing.

Markha & Dzo Jongo

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb a 6218m peak. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

2-16 July, 15 days — caravan style — Kunga
Members: Chris G, Bill B, Will D (and Jim D)
Crew: Kunga (guide), Dorjee, Chanden and Ram Lal+Madi with 12 horses
Logistics: Lobsang

A great trek even if only some people climbed the mountain. More importantly, they will be back!

It sounds like they had fun and the crew did a sterling job.

Ladakh Peaks & Passes

This is our unique take on the classic Markha trek finishing with our delightful wildlife and wilderness route. Bonus, a 6218m straightforward peak!

2-16 July, 15 days — caravan style — Kunga
Member: Jim D with the above

Jim decided to change, trekking with the team above and then took a longer road trip around Zanskar than originally planned. Everything went well.

Kanchenjunga North-South

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best alpine trekking in Nepal. We have this group fixed departure and can arrange private trips too - what suits you?

18 Apr-11 May, 24 days — lodge trek — Bire Tamang
Members: Carol Boyle, Gary Jones
Crew: Bire Tamang and 2 porters

... We had wonderful weather – sunny every morning until we got to the passes. The old growth forest was wonderful. Absolutely beautiful views of Kanchenjunga. It did cloud over a bit in the afternoon and on the trip down to Ghunsa it started to snow at 3pm. No wind and it was relatively warm, we all had rain gear on and with the rhododendrons in bloom it was quite pretty. We even had thunder and lightning which is incredibly rare in a snow storm – blew out a cell phone tower so no communication for a number of days. Just before the first pass, we got a glimpse of Everest then it socked in so we didn’t head up to SBC – I had a cough so had planned on not going anyway. The rhododendron forest was magic, low mist and flowers out everywhere. For the last two days it poured rain just after we got to the huts so we escaped the worst.

All in all it was a great trip. Bire, Des and Porba were great, Bire made sure we were moving slowly on the way up which suited me very well as there was always time to take photos and I never felt I was being pushed beyond my limits. No injuries, no blisters. Food was mostly fine, very good in a few places, especially the momo that Bire and Des made for me – delicious. I felt very looked after. There were few people on the trail and I loved wandering through the forests, spotting signs of wildlife – martin, jackal and wild cat we think. Did see blue sheep and a pika but nothing else.

- Carol Boyle

The trek was brilliant despite being a small group! The trek was made so by Bire and the porters who were a pleasure to trek with. Bire is very amiable and professional.

The trek is so different from the Everest area and I enjoyed the remoteness, different scenery and lack of trekkers!

- Gary Jones

Khumbu research trek

We are researching for the seventh (!) edition of my guidebook Trekking in the Everest Region.

1-27 May — Jamie+Esther

After flying to Lukla, we trekked to Gokyo then back to Namche. This Gokyo Lakes trek really is beautiful, and far less busy than the Everest BC (EBC) route. Then we trekked what has become the classic Everest Three Passes trek, including lunching in Thame that was later partially wiped out by a GLOF.

The late spring season was cloudier than usual, it was a year of extreme wildfires, and we missed some of the most famous mountain views. Staying away from the main overnight stopover points meant we avoided overcrowded lodges mostly, and I will write about all these tricks in the next edition fo the guidebook.

Kanchenjunga exploration *private

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal. We can arrange both private trips and group fixed departures - what suits you?

Nov — Bali Lopchan
Team: Luke & Becky, Bali and Kaji

Howdy Jamie - just wanted to say thank you for getting us hooked up with Bali (and getting things arranged through Himalayan trails) for our Kanchenjunga trek. He is a great guide sirdar, and we had an amazing time. It seemed the stars aligned for us at every turn. I should also mention you have a great reputation- whenever your name was mentioned, there were nods of appreciation and praise. We’re grateful for your help.

- Luke H

Kanchenjunga North-South 6k

Epic! Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal and on this special version of the trek, we walk up Jamie's favourite very high viewpoint of the region.

29 Oct-24 Nov, 27 days — lodge trek — Bire Tamang — full
Members: Phil Willington**, Kelvin Chen**, Andre G, Vicente L & Carolina H, Angel I-R and Herman F
Crew: Bire Tamang and Sona and 5 porters

... Our trip was amazing with a very mixed group in the 59-69 age category and we all got on extremely well. This was an ideal age group for me, since I wasn’t much slower than most of the “youngsters”, and was ahead of C on most days although we had some enjoyable time together bringing up the rear of the pack.

I had a great 70th birthday bash at Kambachen on the way to the north BC with the porters joining in the celebration with a cake, several renditions of Happy Birthday and some wild hybrid mangle Nepalese and western dancing styles in the tiny dining area. The host family joined in the fun to make it a special night for me. It was a great excuse for the porters and our hosts to have a bit of fun in these harsh places.

We missed the 6,000 metre viewpoint since the lodge at the North Base Camp was unexpectedly already closed for the winter, so we went to the BC on a long 9 hour walk from Lonak and back in a day. I wasn’t disappointed since the 6,000 metre outlook wasn’t the main objective for me, which was to just get back to the Himalayas at least one last time when the prospect seemed impossible only 18 months ago. I’m sure it would have been great to see Kanchenjunga from this extra high view point, but what we did see was certainly good enough for me and we had great weather to make it so much better. ...

Bire was a great guide and I have renamed him Mr “No Problem” since he coped amazingly well with all the unexpected twists and turns on a trip of this nature. Sona was a true gentleman and was one of the most polite, courteous, attentive, thoughtful and generous people I have ever had the good fortune to meet. They were both very considerate of my age and knee circumstances and helped provide a great trip for the enjoyment of all of us trekkers, complimented by your perfect acclimatisation plan for the high elevations we got to.

So all in all, the trip was a triumph for me, with Kumbhakarna (phew, no wonder they also call it Jannu) being my new favourite mountain. I could have looked at it for hours.

Thanks for letting me experience the enjoyment of this amazing trip. It was a privilege to get to this place which is so inaccessible and rarely visited to add to the incredible beauty of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.

Phil Willington

First of all, it was a very nice surprise to unexpectedly meet you and Esther in Kathmandu ... I very much enjoyed our various discussions and the opportunity to meet you both in person.

Before I start about the trek itself, I must first thank you for adjusting the originally proposed date of the trek and then considering my request to “spice” it up a bit. ...

The 6k ridge climb that you proposed from Pangpema to get a better view of the north face of Kanchenjunga would have been spectacular (as well as a real fitness test) but unfortunately did not happen for logistical reasons. However, I see that it is now included in the Oct 2024 departure itinerary, so obviously is seen as a worthy add-on to the basic trek route.

Overall the trek was excellent and pretty much exactly what I expected. I really appreciated the lack of crowds / helicopters, the more basic trails, even the more basic lodges. The scenery was exactly what I was after and I found that in some ways the views were even more impressive than in the Everest area. The Jannu viewpoint was an unexpected highlight. Some specific comments:

Leadership (Bire)
 - I found Bire to be an excellent leader, easy to communicate with, and always good company to be around

 - when decisions had to be made (particularly with modifying the itinerary) he listened carefully to everyone before a decision was made, but I never had any doubt that he would not have permitted us to make a poor decision

 - he was very supportive of each trekker (we all had a few individual issues) and I knew he was quietly monitoring our wellbeing at all times

Leadership (Sona)
 - Sona has to be one of the kindest, most gentle people I have ever met

 - he most often led the group and was an excellent pacesetter

 - he worked tirelessly at meal breaks

 - his English will need to improve if he is to eventually step up to be a full guide, although I think he understood a lot more than we realised

Earthquake - we had no idea there was an earthquake in central/western Nepal until 2 days or so after it happened, but appreciated that the Kathmandu office quickly sent an email to our families letting them know we were safe when this was requested through Bire

Trekkers - we were an eclectic but cohesive group, perhaps aided by the closeness in our ages

Philip Willington Birthday
 - early on in the trek I spoke to Bire about Philip’s 70th birthday and he willingly organised a birthday cake (which followed us around due to itinerary modifications)
 - what I did not anticipate was that the lodge owners, guides, porters, etc... would participate in a full on birthday celebration, which made Philip’s birthday very memorable

Acclimatisation
 - in one work -- perfect
 - as far as I know no one had any issues (not even a mild headache)

Accommodation
 - the standard was about what I expected, perhaps even a bit better some nights, but overall no complaints

 - while not luxurious, our yak dung plastered, extremely cold lodge at Ramche will be remembered long after I have forgotten staying in any 5 star accommodation!

Food
 - this was my first teahouse trek, so the food arrangements (ordering off a menu) were very different to what I had experienced before (everyone served same food, no choice)

 - overall the food quality was OK (not quite as good as my previous treks) with a lack of fresh vegetables compared to what I had experienced in the past

Improvements a:
Soup at dinner - this may sound minor, but I would have appreciated having a small bowl of soup (along with something else) at every dinner when at an altitude >3500m and would have willingly paid a bit more for this b:

“Marshalling the Troops”

1. We often waited 10-15 minutes in the morning (in the cold) past the time when we were meant to leave

2. Conversely on the trail during breaks we were often not given any notice before the guides put on their packs and started walking

3. I would have appreciated having notice of when we were going to leave (ie at 730 or in 2 minutes) and then stuck to that

The improvements are minor points. Overall I found the trek to have been excellent and it will certainly always be a memorable experience for me.

Andre Giguere

Tsum & Manaslu Wild

Tsum is a sacred beyul, a "hidden valley of happiness" and simply wonderful trekking. We'll explore to the heads of the valley then, after more adventurous trails, continue around the classic Manaslu circuit. Unlike most, this is a full camping trek, woo-hoo!

8 Oct-10 Nov, 34 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness
Members: Paul K*******, Bruce Utsey****, Virginia Hill***, Phil Whitwell*****, Jim R*****, Justin H, Kees Terhell******* (and Esther)
Crew: Bali, Aiteram, Mangal, Dawa (cook), Ang Kami, Kaji (lunch carrier), Abiral, Tara, Tenzing, Samir Lopchan (egg porter) and 4 horsemen and 18-10 mules

Manaslu '23 was a fabulous hike. Usually when people ask me my favourite hike l reply with "Too difficult to say" but Manaslu just maybe it.

- Virginia Hill

Wow, the Tsum Valley impressed as did parts of the Manaslu Circuit however the days camping in this region are coming to a close.

Tsum is a true beyul, or sacred hidden valley, and lives up to its name with charming, mostly self-sufficient locals, picturesque villages and no killing of animals in the valley. It is also stunning, a steep sided valley with shining snow capped mountains towering above and sometimes unexpected mountain views. We had planned to explore the valleys above Mu Gompa (continuing our 2007 exploration) however the locals suggested not going to the top of the passes with Tibet as China has checkposts on or very near the very top, and then we were spared the choice of exploring the valleys as it snowed. This melted quickly at lower elevations but not higher up (as we were later to find on the Larkya La too). Our second planned exploration was thwarted by a landslide so, instead, we headed back to the Manaslu Circuit a few days early.

Paul had had a swollen leg for some of this section, cause unknown, and as it continued to worsen, he was evacuated. Ever philosophical, he took this in his stride.

Bruce and Justin with Bali and Kaji took the "shortcut" from Chumling to Bihi (ie Tsum to Manaslu), and found it tough and hair-raising. The locals mentioned the trail had been improved from our 2001 and 2007 learning experiences, which at that time was truly heinous, only a boot width wide and no actual construction (except a ladder in one delicate spot), and indeed now there is a lightly constructed trail however Bruce was still in awe of the exposure. This is not a route to be taken lightly and absolutely avoid in any conditions other than perfect weather.

The team continued to the Manaslu Circuit and almost immediately left the main trail for a peaceful gompa, a stiff climb but with rewarding views of Shringi Himal. Another scenic detour followed soon after with Himal Chuli and Ngadi Chuli as the mountain stars. These side trips were highlights and are a real contrast to the almost viewless main forest trail that nearly all trekkers take for this section.

It is from Lho that the awe-inspiring mountains views restart and continue all the way to Bimtang. We also struck harvest gold in the middle villages but in Sama and Samdo, it was already cold although gloriously fine. We can confirm the lake that mysteriously appeared on the latest GHT map does not exist and that it is really tough to reach the various Tibet border pillars from Samdo, probably not worth attempting again (in 2007 we camped almost a week up there).

This trek was the end of an era in a couple of ways. This was probably the last semi-exploratory full camping trip we will run in Nepal. While the mules carried with unvoiced complaints, it is now too much to ask of porters for our wildest explorations now. In the Manaslu region, the lodges are better than ever and with some offering "cottages", these are essentially better than tents, and were not completely full everywhere either (my biggest worry). I have a discussion and list of our exploratory treks.

Additionally, three people said they have had great adventures trekking many times with us but are retiring from trekking holidays. I offer a sincere thank you to these people that have partook in so many previous adventures.

Upper Mustang Magic

With colourful crops in the fields, ancient gompas and canyons of awe, we partly jeep unavoidable roads but mostly trek the best trails to Lo Manthang then take an adventurous, appreciative trekking route out on that most scenic of trails.

12-29 Sept, 18 days — lodge trek — Gelu Sherpa
Members: Fred M******, Sandi B**, Margaret L**

The trek was great and met all my expectations. Gelu did an excellent job leading the group and managing logistics. It was a luxury having a single room and en-suite bathroom.

It felt good to get out trekking again after COVID hiatus. A nice way to begin my retirement.

I think that Upper Mustang will increasingly become a jeep trek as more roads are put in place.

Fred M

... what an amazing and well thought out trek. ...

Sandi B

The trek was great. Different scenery from what I had experienced with Jim in Dolpo and Kanchenjunga on our long camping trips into more remote areas. Lots of roads as you know in Mustang so some jeep here and there worked well. Weather was perfect. (Once in Lukla I got stuck for days so I know what can happen with weather).

... Gelu, Mingma and Amar are excellent. Gelu is a great communicator. Boys really fun also. That's about all. Thanks for organising.

Margaret L

2023 Zanskar Khi *exploratory

An exploratory mystery, probing the valley system from Khi village and a neglected mountaineering pass that might be a new key to crossing the Great Himalayan Range.

22 Aug-25 Sept/2 Oct, 35/42 days — Jamie McGuinness
Members: David K**, Jim Twiss******* with Esther (and Masala the dog)
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Ram Lal and Bishal with 11 horses-mules
Resupply: Lobsang (and the other dog Cheese)

This was a trek from Zanskar villages and the colourful Zanskar rock into the real Great Himalaya Range with hanging glaciers, sheer rock and still raging rivers, so a real contrast in a couple of days walking.

For the exploratory section, the monsoon should have ended and several weather forecasts plus the Indian Meteorological Dept even said so but ...

After staying in Kargyak and waving off Michelle, Ints and Natalie, we headed into that large valley from Khi/sKhing. We wanted to talk with locals about the old pass however it was harvest time and with everyone working, first on the roads, then after that, harvesting, we were not able to extract more info.

Our first camp was slightly dusty but convenient then the next day Ram Lal pushed on to the very last patch of greenery that the horses could access and, by luck, there was a spring and it was a fine camp, as close to the action as we could get. After a probe up the glacier on a drizzly day, we turned back but more daringly Kunga and Ram Lal trekked a fair way up the glacier. Alas, there was a lot of cloud and not the visibility needed, which is what I had feared.

The following day, we had a needed rest day as the predicted fine weather instead felt even more monsoonal, however the day after was much better and we set off with purpose. After the morning break Jim and David turned back, to my disappointment. Esther and I continued up at a faster pace and with good navigation headed up the moraine. We turned right, heading further up mostly on ice, crossing a couple of relatively minor streams in the ice, to a point opposite to where I thought the pass may be. We could see that with a lot more ice, the route to where I guessed the pass may be, would be feasible. I scanned the pass top with binoculars but could see no sign of human construction. However, on the glacial ice I did find small bright orange O-ring, likely for a stove. While slightly stiff, rather than supple, it didn't break with my flexing it. I am guessing this was discarded by a mountaineering group.

During winter, Kunga talked with locals who have a memory of the pass and indeed, I was looking at the correct spot. While mountaineers may still be able to cross, there is no possibility of animals crossing as they once did, nor of traders. So, this idea of mine is now dead.

2023 Tso Zanskar

From high altitude (Lake) Tsomoriri to colourful Zanskar, we traverse that vast wilderness area we know and love. Wildlife, canyons, panoramic passes and big sky trekking with the comfort of our horse caravan.

22 Aug-15 Sept, 25 days — caravan style — +Jamie McGuinness
Members: +Ints M, Nataly, Michelle Norgate, +Jim Twiss******* with +Esther (and +Masala the dog) plus David K** for the last section
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Ram Lal and Bishal with 11 horses-mules
Resupply crew: Lobsang

we are very happy with the trek and the whole trip. ... I sincerely thank you and your team for the perfectly organized and realized Ladakh exploration.

Ints M

Traversing some of India's most incredible, scenic wilderness, this was a trek in four parts.

First, we started from Tsomoriri with a couple of windy days and nights (it is usually windy at Kiangdam) and then from the lightly trodden Phirtse Valley headed off trail for the second part to explore that huge remote untracked wilderness area. At our first camp a curious wolf eyed us from a distance. We headed to the base camp for the peak and climbed the steep, sharp scree in a slog that doesn't seem worth it until the summit, where the panorama is extensive and left us in awe of how many peaks near, middle distance and far, we could see. Of note, Masala the dog (who adopted us on the trail) was almost certainly the highest dog on the planet that day, also summitting with us. She is one tough if gentle dog!

The third part of this trek was the crossing of the formidable Pangpo La into another wilderness area. This is a one way pass that begins easily enough up a slightly rough stream to the top of a pass marked with a few old cairns. The descent down the other side is the challenge though, and one that Ram Lal and his excellent memory excels at. The savagely steep scree was slightly tamed once there was a mule trail to follow (kudos to the lead horse!), however there was still some real exposure. It is a route that demands respect and astute route finding. Apparently, decades ago it was sometimes used by nomads with yaks and horses especially for a certain festival, although never by goats and sheep, who often push each other off a narrow path.

The Upper Tsarap Chu is a wild area and it was here that we were in awe of the remoteness again. There are no kiang in this valley and so Ram Lal could divine from the rare disintegrating horse poop that the last camping group through here must have been at least 4+ years ago, ie pre-covid, and similarly for the last group to cross the Pangpo La, which could have even been us in 2017. We trekked for nine days cross country without trails - not even animal trails!!!

Jim coined the second section "the accursed land" (the title of an Antarctic book) and while the desert is panoramic trekking at this time of year, it should be avoided at most other times. Over the other side of the pass (third section), the phrase "bare rock savagery" from John Keay's Himalaya perfectly describes the Zanskar Range.

For the last section from Sarchu to Kargyak, David K joined us after a cycling warm up. This is familiar territory to myself, Esther, Jim and the crew, however we took the less used Tserichen (Surichen) La rather than the longer Phirtse La as this drops into Stanzin Kunga's pleasant home village. Oh, the panorama from the pass top!

Each of the four sections has its own distinct character and so despite only trekking through one village, it was a trek of variety, and the remote wilderness left us all in awe.

Sadly, with the Chinese senselessly poking India in the eye on the line of control, India is forced to build a road on the edge of this wilderness. I'll write more about that for the 2024 Zanskar GHT, however suffice to say that India has been happy with the old line of control status quo without wishing to expand or change the peace in any way; it is entirely the Chinese PLA that are agressive for no fathomable logic and thereby necessitating this destructive road construction.

Ladakh Skypacking Plus

Trails less trekked. We backpack and camp out in the most amazing wilderness but our twist is luxury resupplies by Lobsang. Refuel on his Asian fusion cooking and swap dirty for clean, and head out again.

27 July-15 Aug, 20 days — backpacking — Jamie McGuinness
27 July-24 Aug, 29 days — backpacking + caravan
Members: Serge & Hannah**, Jim Twiss******, Lee Ann****, Ryan L (& Esther)
Resupply crew: Lobsang and Phuntsok
Caravan crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Ram Lal and Bishal + 11 horses-mules

This was a great adventure but not without incidents.

The variety of scenery was outstanding but it was the wolves that were the surprises. First, one crossed the road right in front of us on one of our connecting drives. Then we saw two a couple of hundred metres along from our camp, causing minor panic with the shepherds also nearby. That wasn't the end though, as a wolf hopped across a pass within 20 meters of us! Lastly, while Jamie was sleeping out there was a midnight yowling howl and in the early morning the crew spied a wolf sauntering 50 metres above my orange sleeping bag. They laughed rather than alerting me because it looked well fed and not in need of a meal.

And the incidents. The first was Jim's 2 metre firehose squirts (luckily I wasn't witness), probably the result of a roadside restaurant in Upshi. In Jim fashion, after recovering, he met us as we were finishing the second section, warning of the intimidating river crossings near Lato, which he had just crossed several times. Just after suggesting we stick close and watch for each other, Serge was swept of his feet and Hannah immediately yanked him out. In the process, the one croc club has a new member as Serge lost a croc. (Jim is another member having lost a croc in 2022). That is a mean river section near Lato if there is a little more water than usual in it and there are no easy crossing points.

Lee Ann had been sensitive to the altitude from the start (whereas she had trekked to extreme altitude previously without trouble). She could still hump a heavy pack well but as we slept higher one camp gave her real grief and we (myself and her) should have descended immediately but then Serge dived for a bowl floating down the stream and dislocated his shoulder. Thank goodness, the medically new but effective "three man sandwich" technique and then a gentle twist by me returned it to its socket without issue.

I might have been a little down but certainly not broken! Sadly, the trip did not end the way I wanted but I am grateful I was safe and eventually made a full recovery (though skinny- losing 11 pounds made for quite a show as I lost my swim suit bottoms in my Delhi hotel pool! Whoopsie!). ...

I owe you a heartfelt thankyou for all your kindness and making sure I was safe and out of the mountains. I really appreciate your skills, knowledge and compassion when it came to my quick exit. Things really got complicated quickly.....I certainly owe you more than a bag of discarded snacks! (I am glad they saw some use!)

LeeAnn

The rest of the trek was less eventful although no less impressive. Backpacking is tough though, the additional weight means passes are a real slog, if satisfying. The camping was a pleasure and in particular, carrying freshly cooked meals as we did after a resupply meant good food. The main comment for us was backpacking trips should focus on areas that horses cannot go.

And UL - true ultralight trekking? While Jim aspires to it, Ryan showed us how it is done and was gracious enough to carry heavier supplies when needed (a melon for our first lunch!). However, true UL trekking involves so many compromises that it is not the right choice for most backpackers, nor for the longer ranging trips here.

The last section (Hannah's birthday treat, and Serge rejoined for this, phew) was with our usual horse caravan and so luxurious by comparison, and was simply great trekking in that "Tso High" area between the high altitude lakes.

Markha Tso High *private family

For sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek then head remote and higher for real adventure.

10 July-17 Aug — caravan style
Members: Mike and family
Crew: Kunga, Chanden and Ram Lal & Bishal + 11 horses-mules

Thank you for a truly brilliant trek – we all absolutely loved the whole experience – the wonderful team, the remoteness, the passes and peaks, the wildlife and the support and company of you and Esther.

Mike Grocott and family, 2023 private month-long trek

Esther and I helped introduce the Markha Valley to Mike and family, however in truth, the family are experienced trekkers and so it was a catch up as much as anything. We then ducked out and they continued with the able crew. A brief highlight of theirs with their 11-14 year olds was climbing 3x 5800+m passes and 2x 6000+m peaks in five days!

Ladakh Peaks & Passes

This is our unique take on the classic Markha trek finishing with our delightful wildlife and wilderness route. Bonus, a 6218m straightforward peak!

12 June-1 July, 20 days — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — full
Members: Ian MacDonald*, Jim Twiss *****, Will Bright*
Team: Kunga, Chanden and Ram Lal & Bishal + 11 horses-mules

Thanks for a memorable trek. Even the bits of suffering were all part of the great funscape in retrospect!

Ian MacDonald

Combined with below, and I must say that the wilderness end is so scenic with bouts of wildlife too, that it is a must do route if you have the time.

It was on this wilderness section that I began to have doubts about my usual line, wolves have so much food available in summer that they have no need to attack humans. Will preferred to trek ahead of us at his own faster pace and we were around half an hour behind him ascending the Zarlung Karpo La. We had all seen the wolf prints on the trail but I became a little alarmed when Esther pointed out one that seemingly showed a wolf print on top of Will's. Was the animal stalking Will??

Thank goodness, there he was waiting at the top of the pass for us. He had seen the fresh prints ahead of him and that one we had seen was probably not what we assumed.

Thank you, everyone, for the wonderful, appreciative company.

Markha & Dzo Jongo

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb a 6218m peak. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

12-26 June, 15 days — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — full
Members: Paul G and Peter, Brad & Jade
Team: Lobsang, Tenzin Dorjee, Ram Lal and Bishal with 11 horses, Pema with 8 horses

Combined with the above trip, this made a total of seven (plus a last minute cancellation).

Winter/spring finished late this year and so instead of perfect conditions, it was still a little cool (no problem!) but also with melting snow higher up and the snow on Dzo Jongo Ri looked problematic to me, too much of it starting rather lower on the mountain than usual. I made a call to "climb" the dome of Konka Ri/Konga Ri 5740m instead, which is not high but is reputed to have an impressive view. Thank goodness I made this call!

Climbing "baldy" proved to be a tougher than expected outing. The snow started low and we put on mountaineering boots then ascended to the summit fairly easily. From the summit there was a 360 degree panorama of mountains and way in the distance we could clearly see K2, GI & GII plus Broad Peak, so four of the five 8000'ers in Pakistan, more than 250kms distant! So far, so good, however after our leisurely admiration of the view in the warm sun, we postholed down, often frustratingly falling through the snow crust, immensely tiring with bruised shins too. Thank goodness we did not attempt Dzo Jongo first, it would have been a true ordeal.

All in all it was a great trek and I must emphasize that although shorter than all our other treks, every single day was satisfying with some real highlights including a Nat Geo-worthy display of blue sheep cliff dancing from our breakfast table (!), an exploration in awe of the Hangkar fort and unexpected hospitality from locals plus lama in the Markha and Tacha Gompas. Thank you, everyone - crew and members!

ATC Nar-Phu *private

Variety! A warm up on the Annapurna Circuit then Phu, with its fortress-like village, some base camp exploration and the finale is the Kang La with in-your-face mountains.

28 Mar-18 Apr, 22 days
Members: Jim Morrow**** and five/six others

This trip had a bumpy start, with one person taking a hiking fall a few weeks prior and then another came down with covid after a few days in Kathmandu. Oh dear.

However, the trek itself went well, very well, and some of the team will be returning in a couple of years.

Kanchenjunga North-South *private

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal. We can arrange both private trips and group fixed departures - what suits you?

26 Mar — lodge trek — Bire Tamang
Members: Tim & Jen

The trip went fantastically.

- Tim C