Trekking peaks of Nepal

The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) has classified 33 peaks in Nepal as 'trekking peaks', a misleading name because all involve climbing. Ranging from 5650-6500m (18,537-21,325ft) some are, however, appropriate heights to combine within a trekking program. "Limited bureaucracy" peaks would be a better name.

**Shameless advert: we run some great treks with peak climbs, see Our treks**
**For 7000m and 8000m peaks see 8000m peaks.**

Peak rules

In Sept 2002 the NMA trekking peaks list was revised with 15 peaks added and all the new peaks classified as group "A" peaks while the previous 18 are now considered group "B" peaks. Even now, more than five years later, relatively little is known about a few of the "new" peaks.

Also a new "garbage deposit" scheme is being set up for all 33 peaks. Currently $250 per team must be deposited and will be refunded if the climbers, sirdar and leader sign that they have left the base camp clean, however this method of checking will be revised sometime.

Jan 2002: The cumbersome Expeditions permits system has been revised, as well as 103 newly opened peaks, there is no longer the requirement for a liaison officer for peaks under 6500m, a welcome change (although I don't think they have gone far enough). Currently for peaks under 6500m the peak fee is $1500 plus $200 per person above 7 members, although most peaks in western Nepal are free.

Equipment and safety

"One man's prudence is another man's poison." Tilman

If climbing in a trekking company group headed by a climbing guide, then harnesses and ropes will be used on every one of the peaks below, whether for crevasse danger or steep slopes. Nepali guides are accomplished at fixing ropes but generally don't have any idea of how to rope up properly for glacier travel or to set up a belay, or belay using a climbing rope. Unbelievable, but true. The only way to find out if they do know is to ask the guide to demonstrate.

If climbing without a guide, recognizing your personal limits is important, this is the Himalaya after all. Some of these peaks are 'straightforward' but what this really means is that to be safe you don't need a shop's worth of karabiners, ice-screws, snow-stakes and rock racks - just a partner, rope, a few bits of protection, experience using this gear, good weather and an overriding urge to die of senility.

The routes mentioned below cover the least difficult way up some of the main trekking peaks in the region. For proficient technical alpinists none of the routes are particularly challenging under good conditions. For safety-conscious amateurs, they have potential to provide satisfaction and experience without excessive danger.

Ask the trekking company if all staff are insured for their appropriate roles. Many cut corners here.

Acclimatization and itinerary planning

Heading straight up to high altitude for the first time, even if following the recommended guidelines, is usually a shock to everyone's system. The effort required for walking, let alone climbing, uphill at 5000m is much greater than you might think. So a sensible acclimatization program is essential: use the 300m a day rule, not only to avoid altitude sickness, but to give your body time to gain strength. Also plan in extra days for less than perfect weather, two significant factors that the majority of trekking companies ignore, and common causes of failure. Almost invariably a trek itinerary with a couple of days thrown in for a climb doesn't lead to a successful ascent. Plan the trip as a peak expedition, with the trek in and out as a means for acclimatizing and getting fit.

Climbing without support

Quite a few people want to try a peak without any sort of support, carrying all their own gear. Mostly this isn't entirely realistic. It is much better to hire at least a porter or two so that you can enjoy the trek, and this also means you don't have to be so fussy about weight. However the best reason to take a climbing sherpa or at least a porter-guide who speaks English is for route-finding. None of the trails are marked, and the routes on the mountain are not always obvious either, not even where you should place base camp, for some mountains. They will know where water is etc.

For this lightweight approach you will be best to arrive in Kathmandu and ask around local trekking agencies for one that will provide the permit and an NMA guide to assist you.

Group "A" peaks

These are the 2002 "new" peaks.

Permit cost

Khumbu region peaks

You want a good map to find some of these peaks.

Cholatse 6440m

Khumbu region, Khumbu range. Phew, that is one technical peak!

Machermo / Phari Lapcha  6017m (6273m)

Khumbu region, Mahalangur range. Richard Salisbury says these are the same peak and has given the correct altitude. This peak is of course above Machermo settlement in the Gokyo region. There are two peaks relatively close together. While there is no obvious easy route up visible from Machermo, apparently it isn't difficult once you get close.

Kyazo Ri 6186m

Khumbu region, Mahalangur range. You beauty. Classic peak, isolated and has barely been climbed. Have adventures getting in there, and don't underestimate how long it takes to get to a base camp in the Kyazo valley (also pronounced Gyajok and Kyajo). See the 4th edition of the guide book "Trekking in the Everest region".

Nirekha 6159m

Khumbu region, between Gokyo and Lobuche. This peak is between the Kangchung Twins and Lobuche West. On maps of the region north of the Cho La is another potential pass, the peak is accessible from there. While from a simple look it doesn't seem suitable as a commercial peak, ie for inexperienced groups with a guide, it doesn't look horribly dangerous or particularly difficult either.

Ombigaichen 6340m

Khumbu region. This mountain is just north of Mingbo La and SE of Ama Dablam. It used to be known as Puma Dablam.

Abi (6097m)

Khumbu region, Mahalangur range. Also called Api, this is a rock peak just south of Lobuche East. The altitude is wrong, mistaken with Lobuche East's secondary peak, it is marked as 5551m on the Schneider Khumbu map. Despite the low altitude compared to most others it is a real climb, all on rock in good conditions.

Lobuje West 6145m

Khumbu region, Khumbu range. Nice one but technical. Often spelt Lobuche...

Chhukung Ri 5550m

Khumbu. This should not be on the list. Even the 5886m "Chukhung Tse", as I have called it is merely a scramble and not a real climb. This peak was not on the list that I reviewed for additional trekking peaks.

Other regions

There is a mixture of peaks, but none in the Annapurna region. This is strange because there are some good candidates for this list such as Dhampus and Khatung Kang...

Bokta 6143m

Kanchenjunga region. This is a monster, below is a view of the west side of the peaks; no straightforward route up there...

In 2003 we visited the eastern side of the mountain (ie from Ramche, south side of Kanchenjunga). There is no straightforward way up that either - below. We climbed to the col to the north of the peak (ie the one in the pic), probably the first people to do so. It was moderately steep with DANGEROUS rock fall. we camped on the col and climbed the gully under the right hand shoulder from there, also with DANGEROUS rock fall and got to around 100m (vert) from the summit, but deep styrofoam snow on a 50 degree angle stopped us. This peak can be climbed by real mountaineers (not by weekend or commercial mountaineers...) in good conditions, but I have a feeling it will be a long time before anyone gets higher than we did!

Bokta's first ascent was by a Slovenian team in 1991 and then a search of the internet reveals in 1992 some Germans thought they climbed it, however they were on another nearby mountain.

Chekigo 6257m

Rolwaling region, Gaurishankar range. Hmmm.

Larkya Peak 6010m

Manaslu. Can anyone find an easy or safe way up this peak? Plenty of teams have climbed a mountain that could have been Larkya, or perhaps it is another easier peak nearby. I should have climbed this already, but haven't - so I will soon!

Yubra Himal 6035m

Langtang Himal. ??

Langsisa Ri 6427m

Langtang region, Jugal range. Technical but will appeal, perhaps, although Gangchenpo (Fluted Peak) nearby will appeal more!

Yala Peak 5732m

Langtang. A plod up, but watch out for crevasses. Previously this was climbed without permits and often guided by cowboys from Kyangjin. This is not really a peak and more of a bump on the ridge, and I don't think it should be on the list.

Group "B" peaks

This is the original list of 18 peaks.

Permits and costs

The procedure for obtaining a permit is streamlined in comparison to the months of planning required for expedition peaks. It's therefore possible to arrive in Kathmandu, organize a trekking peak trip from scratch and be on the trail in just under a week. The permits must be obtained in Kathmandu, so it is difficult to meet potential partners and arrange things in Pokhara. The fee per mountain is:

More info

While Bill O'Connor's The Trekking Peaks of Nepal is the standard reference there are enough mistakes and gaps in all of the climbing descriptions for the peaks below to warrant checking out other sources of information.

Annapurna Sanctuary region peaks

Mardi Himal 5587m

Overshadowed by Machhapuchhre to the north, Mardi Himal receives only a few ascents a year. The most common climbing route takes the south ridge for a straightforward ascent using a snow gully. It is also possible to climb using the SSW ridge (Mardi Himal trek), but this involves a bit of rock climbing too. One of the attractions of this peak is the remoteness. Just to get to the base camp takes 3-5 days wilderness trekking.

Huin Chuli 6441m

The formidable front wall of the sanctuary has a fearsome reputation and there is no 'standard' route up. Any route is a challenging technical climb with devilish route finding, and is best tackled in true expedition style. There may be an easier way up though than at first thought possible. 

Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) 5663m

Lying smack bang in the middle sanctuary surrounded by 7000m peaks, this is the most popular of the sanctuary peaks. The route packs a few surprises and some intricate route-finding but its lower altitude makes it suitable for shorter itineraries. The approach to base camp is dangerous, exposed to rock fall while ascending a moraine.

Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) 6501m

Also lying entirely within the sanctuary, north of Tharpu Chuli, most attempts are combined with an attempt on Tharpu Chuli as a warm-up. The access is more challenging, and the mountain is as well, so few commercial groups tackle it. The approach to base camp is dangerous, exposed to rock fall while ascending a moraine.

Manang region peaks

Pisang Peak 6091m/19,987ft

This is often touted as the easiest of the peaks near Manang, but this is considerably under-estimating the difficulty of the rock sections, especially if the least bit wet or snow-covered. Chulu Far East is more straightforward yet receives surprisingly little attention. Trekking companies seem fond of attempting this as a 3 day side trip from Pisang Village, forgetting that virtually nobody can acclimatize in this time. The success rate is therefor surprisingly low.

Chulu East approx 6200m/20,336ft and Chulu Far East (6060m/19,877ft)

Very few maps accurately mark the four Chulu peaks but the altitudes give away their locations. The east peaks are accessed from the same base camp but are quite different mountains. Far East should be the 'Island Peak' (in the Everest region and the most popular limited bureaucracy peak) of the Annapurnas. There are two routes to base camp, both interesting. Then from a high camp clambering over rough, steep scree leads to a broad glaciated ridge with slopes of varying angles. On some sections fixed rope would be useful for a larger group but for smaller teams climbing alpine style with several ropes will do. Note that the majority of climbing sherpas don't know how to set up belays, and rely on fixed ropes.

Chulu East is quite a different proposition requiring much more commitment and alpine experience. From the col on the glaciated ridge you have to descend and cross a broken glacier then climb steep scree slopes to gain a relatively straightforward but high ridge. Setting up a second high camp (camp 1) is a necessity.

Chulu West 6419m/21,055ft and Chulu Central 6558m/21,515ft

The West peak is the Mera (Everest region and second most popular of the limited bureaucracy) of the Annapurnas, little more than a long tough snow slog for a high summit. The difference is that between base camp and high camp the steep loose rock requires fixing ropes. The experienced and sure-footed can get away with a couple of 20m sections while larger groups require something like 300m. acclimatization is the key to success, and a little luck. Not everyone, even well acclimatized, can cope with sleeping at 5600m. Also if there is a single cloud in the area, it will be on Chulu West. The Central peak is not attempted by commercial groups, being an even longer slog, with a sometimes tricky rock section to the actual summit.

Other Annapurna region peaks

The peaks marked with a * are peaks classified by the Ministry of Tourism as Expedition peaks.

Thorungtse * 6032m and Khatung Kang 6484m

Lying immediately south of the Thorung La, many a mountaineer has admired these peaks while crossing the pass, and not a few have more than admired it. Moderate mostly unbroken glacier slopes and short rock scramble lead to a false summit, which has often been soloed. I have called this peak Thorungtse here. The real summit, Khatung Kang, requires far more commitment and climbing steeper more exposed slopes.

Dhampus Peak * 6013m/6035m

Best approached from Dhampus Pass or from Hidden Valley, this peak is little more than a rock scramble in good conditions, although there is also a short stretch of ice to be crossed too. From the summit the Annapurnas and Niligiris smack you in the face with their size and sheerness, Tukuche and Dhaulagiri make you gulp, they are so close, and Manaslu, shimmering100kms away, still looks too huge to be true. And the view stretches into Mustang to the Tibetan border.

Khumbu (Everest) region peaks

For more info on each of these peaks consult the 4th edition of "Trekking in the Everest Region" by Jamie McGuinness, a Trailblazers guide book available at good book stores worldwide.

Imjatse/Island Peak (6173m/20,252ft)

The name was coined by Shipton, who thought this peak looked like 'an island in a sea of ice'. Finding a route to the top could be a challenge in itself were it not for the fact that as many as 25 people a day reach the summit during the busy season, October to November. This does not, however, detract from the fact that it's a hard climb that many people fail to complete, either because of a badly-planned acclimatization itinerary, or because they set off too late in the morning or the winds become too strong. Often in spring, deep snow makes even reaching the Base Camp difficult. Before attempting this peak it's essential to include an acclimatization trip (eg to Lobuche and Kala Pattar or any of the other Chukhung valley peaks).

Mera (6476m/21,246ft)

Mera is one of the most popular of the trekking peaks and, despite being considered little more than a walk to the summit, it is also one of the more dangerous. It's often attempted by people who have flown in to Lukla and not given themselves adequate time to acclimatize. Several people each year pay for their lack of awareness (or their foolhardiness) with their lives. The ignorance of the trekking companies that sell fast expeditions is hard to believe. Typically, out of a group of 10 members two to four might make the summit, perhaps eight or nine will feel sick and two or three mightn't even make the Mera La. In most groups at least one person will get ataxia and without immediate descent death is only a day or so away.

There are many itinerary alternatives that provide better acclimatization preparation. If time is at a premium then consider visiting Namche first or flying in to Phaplu and taking the alternative Pangkongma route. While superior to the shortest itineraries these still bring you to altitude at a rate that is slightly too quick for some people (a course of Diamox may help). With more time why not walk in from Jiri (the bulk of the crew need only join you at Lukla) or for more adventure, try the Arun route via the Surkie La and Panch Pokhari. For better preparation first trek to Kala Pattar then over the Amphu Labtsa. There are many more variations, the only limits are time and your imagination.

Mera has two peaks. The easier one attempted by most groups, is accessed by taking a higher line to the eastern 6461m/21,197ft peak, with its steep last 20ms or so. The true 6476m/21,246ft summit can either be reached by a drop and traverse, beyond many people by this stage, or by initially taking a more westerly lower line out of the high camp for a steep haul to the true summit. Note that both of these routes are crevassed. See our Photo guide to Mera Peak and we also organize the best Mera Peak expeditions, see Our treks (both links open in a new window).

Lobuche East (6105m/20,029ft)

This is the hardest of the trekking peaks that ordinary commercial groups attempt and while many clients attain the worthwhile false summit (the pointed lower summit in the picture above), very few make the real summit. Good conditions and a dawn or pre-dawn start is essential. The average angle for the entire climb is not steep (see the pic below; you climb on the ridge from the flat section 2/3rds of the way down the ridge) but there are some areas of messy seracs that require two axes, front pointing and belaying. The ridge route is sometimes easier. Many people stop at the top of the ridge thinking this is the false summit. It isn't; continue on the knife-edged ridge (groups fix a rope) to the false summit.

Pokalde/Dolma Ri (5794m/19,009ft)

When snow-free and with clear weather, the top of Pokalde is a great place to have lunch. Although below 6000m or 20,000ft, the view is reward enough for a few hours' scrambling. There's a splendid base camp by the lakes below the Kongma La. From here, the the route is up a steep but straightforward trail. The last 50 vertical metres to the summit may require a rope and slings .re are two routes up, with a traverse quite possible. Novices, however, may well feel more secure with a real rope and harness backed by slings and perhaps a simple rock rack.

Kongma Tse (5817m/19,084ft)

Once called Mehra, this can be climbed from the east side, a steep scramble.

Parcharmo (6273m/20,580ft)

There is some confusion over the height of Parcharmo. The height given on the Schneider maps is 6273m, the Nepal Mountaineering Association state the height to be 6187m/20,298ft and surveyors on the first expeditions calculated it to be 6318m/20,700ft. However it's over the magic numbers 6000m and 20,000ft.

There's a reasonable view of the least difficult route up as you approach Parcharmo and from the Tashi Labtsa but a cursory glance here may lead you to underestimate the difficulties. Although of modest angle, the access to the ridge is crevassed and, further up, seracs tower. Basic equipment should include a rope (or two) with a few stakes and screws, and two axes (at least for the leader).

Ramdung-Go (5930m/19,455ft)

This is usually climbed from the north and combined with a crossing of the Tashi Labtsa. The southern approach is lng, difficult to follow and crevassed but otherwise isn't technical.

Kongde (6187m/20,298ft)

Normally approached from Lumding Kharka, ie accessed from Lukla, this peak is seldom attempted. It's more of a climbing than a scrambling peak and requires a stocked rock rack and bivvy gear.

This is taken from Namche; the normal routes are on the other side of the peak, unseen from here.

Kusum Kangguru (6369m/20,895ft)

Very close to Lukla, although it can be approached from 3 directions, this challenging peak is climbed. Its razor ridges provide challenge for the serious and well-prepared.

Other Khumbu region peaks

These are illegal to climb but shouldn't be...

Kangchung Shar (pyramid) 6103m/20,023ft

The twin peaks of Kangchung are eye-catching from all the high points around the Gokyo region, sticking up like islands from the surroundings. The Sherpa name means 'small mountain'. The Schneider map marks a pass between the peaks and approaching from the south is fairly straightforward up an icefall. The north side, however, is impossible, not a pass at all. The eastern Kangchung (Shar) is, if viewed from knobby view, a steep pyramid. Camping on the col will give the best chance of success. The angle of the snow on the face changes season to season, perhaps depending on wind loading. However, expect the steepest pitch to be around 60 degrees, and an average of 40 or so degrees. I met a climber who had soloed it, but on closer inspection, he was game (the left face then onto the ridge).

A friend also attempted the south east rock ridge (right skyline) but was stopped by a deep notch in the ridge that had a small vertical drop followed by a short vertical climb, that was perhaps 100m (vert) from the summit.

Kangchung Nup (Cholo) 6089m

The west (Nup) peak is best attempted from a rock saddle south-west of Surprise Lake. This rock ridge (the central one in the picture below) meets a snow gully that 200m of rope works perfectly on. This brings you to the small summit. From here the ridge may be possible to traverse in good conditions; otherwise drop down the gully (flip your 200m of rope over) and climb on the face, although it isn't all easy. You need a 60m climbing rope for this section.

I was hoping this could become a popular trekking peak but it is just a little challenging for this. It is suitable for mountaineers who have some basic experience and feel comfortable belaying. The whole area is fun to explore.

Changri Lho 6189m and the unnamed pass 5690m

Slightly north of the Tso La is another pass. It is considerably higher, but except for variable conditions for the last 10m, is quite straightforward. The approaches are gentle although crevassed. From the Gokyo side access the glacier by skirting under the Kangchung Shar peak. On the Dzonglha side the route is lightly cairned to the glacier. From the pass itself it is possible to ascend Changri Nup (unnamed on the Schneider map). The ridge is a series of seracs and under most conditions requires some ice-climbing gear.

Langtang and Ganesh Himal peaks

Both have spectacular summit views that look over the hazy middle hills to the south and to the north, into Tibet, including fine views of the 8027m Shishapangma.

Naya Kanga (5846m/19,180ft)

You can climb high without a rope in good conditions but it would be a mistake. Take some fixed rope (200m?) or a couple of climbing ropes and see if you can get to the real summit.

Paldor (5928m/19,450ft)

See Trailblazer's guide book "Trekking in Langtang, Gosainkund & Helambu" where the climb is described in detail.

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