Click for Our treks
 Our treks  8000m peaks Tibet tours Contact us  About us  Photos & Diaries
Previous treks
Recent treks
2007
2006
2005
2004
2002-2003
2000-2001
1995-1999
Everest treks
India treks 2006+
India treks 2004-2005
India treks 1999-2003
Kanchenjunga treks
8000m peaks
Expedition dispatches
Photo galleries
Trip diaries
Ladakh-Zanskar extras
Previous India treks
Our India crew
Trip diaries
Best Ladakh pix
Espace gallery
more photos...

Kim Bannister

 

opens in new tab/window

opens in new tab/window

opens in new tab/window

Our previous India treks 2004-05

Friendship treks

We love Ladakh, see how many treks we have previously advertised and ran.
The links lead to updated versions of the info pages.

* means these wonderful people have trekked multiple times with us;
someone on almost every Ladakh trek!

2005 Indian Summer

Lost Worlds of the Jumlam - Ladakh & Zanskar

Ladakh, the 'Crossroads of High Asia', is criss-crossed with both modern and ancient trade routes. The Jumlam or 'middle way' is an incredibly scenic trek which traverses from the Indus valley to the ancient kingdom of Zangla via a network of stunning, precipitous gorges, canyons and remote passes.

12 Sept-3 Oct, 22 days -- expedition-style -- leader: Joel -- US$2080
Team: Scott and Van D

We hardly noticed the Autumn chill in the air (ok, maybe Kim did, but she won't admit it) as we trekked through a magical world of river gorges, over high passes, crossed crystal-clear rivers more than 100 times, passed by herds of blue sheep, and camped under a full moon and stary skies. The enthusiasm of our small group was infectious, and our trek was completed by a wild three-day jeep journey via Rangdum and Kargil back to Leh. Thanks, guys, and we'll expect you back for another trek soon!

Trans-Himalayan Tracks 1 *exploratory

An exotic journey through ochre canyons and luminescent valleys of roses where bears still roam, past remote gompas and white-washed villages. We explore hidden valleys of Zanskar, bring an adventurous spirit!

14 Aug-12 Sept, 30 days -- expedition-style -- leaders: Joel & Kim -- US$2580 -- trek full
Team: Frank & Jessica, Jennelle, Paul, Joy, Tom, Donna, Ken
Shorter trek: Giri, Ronan, Ted & Francoise, Beth, Bruce & Lawrence, Jason & Ruth

A difficult trek with more challenges that we would like to admit. The Guberajon, or 'Gompa Rangjung', the 'self-emanating gompa' which towers over the Zanskar valley, provided our inspiration for a trek dedicated to Jason, Joel's brother.

Zanskar, the Land Beyond

The ancient kingdoms of Ladakh and Zanskar are some of the more exotic on earth, and we continue our love affair with this magical place - its diverse people, landscape, religion, villages - by crossing the high, remote lands via a route rarely trekked.

15 July-9 August, 26 days -- expedition-style -- leaders: Kim & Joel -- US$2280
Team: Marv, June, John C*, Steven Williams, Rein Grabbi**, Harry L, Bengt.

Trekking groups don't get much better than this one, and fields of wild-flowers (all documented by June) blanketed the way through the spectacular and magical valleys of Zanskar & Ladakh. June, Marv & Rein proved that 70 is THE age for a three week trek, Bengt dreamed of becoming a dad, John taught us, Stephen paid our gompa entrance fees by Visa, Harry Louw spoke in strange Afrikaners tongues, June kept us laughing, Marv taught us the ways of the American Indians (but we refused to learn the rain dance) and Rein presided over the tent in a god-fatherly manner. Thank you all so much for a wonderful, wonderful trek!

Picture taken by Lhakpa: back row: Rein (Estonia), Bengt (Norway), Stephen & John (UK), Marv (USA), Harry (SA).
In the front: Lobsang, Kim, Joel, Tenpa, June (USA) and Punsok.

Markha Valley

Private trek joining the Land Beyond.

Team: Mattias*** and Helen***.

Back to Ladakh for their third year in a row. Again we managed to link two of our favorite trekkers into a trek already happening. We got back from our nomads trek to find them in Leh with thoughts on the bad weather...but it cleared up the day they started! As I write they are about to pick up some fresh supplies and we join them with 'The Land beyond' group later this week.

Nomads of the Changtang

Following ancient caravan trails, this is a 'best of Ladakh' trek - open grasslands, jagged peaks, turquoise lakes, picturesque villages, Buddhist gompas, incredible passes and of course the Tibetan nomads that roam the high plateau.

11 June-10 July, 30 days -- expedition-style -- leaders: Joel & Kim -- US$2580
Team: Max**, Dagmar, Seth and Steve.

Markha valley Beyond

A trek through a valley of ancient hilltop gompas and villages in motion, joining the 'Nomads of Changtang' group at the start of their journey. A perfect holiday for those with less time.

11-23 June, 13 days -- expedition-style -- leaders: Kim & Joel -- US$1450
Team: Willie and Eric.

Joel says: 'Comings and goings' and the 'summer is not here yet' as the Ladakhis keep saying. Nomads Steve (UK), Dagmar (UK) amd Seth (USA) were joined for the first section by surf instructor Eric (it is true, NOLS have surfing courses!), and a friend of Kim's living in Kathmandu, Willi. Through sun and sleet to Nimaling, with Dagmar entertaining village kids with her guitar.

Climbing the Chokspa la we found that the horses could not get through the deep snow so we rewrote the itinerary; over the Kongmaru La so Willi and Eric could get back to Leh, then on to Karnak via our classic route, picking up Max Sadler, one of Joel's fellow teachers in the Khumbu in 2000, and a veteran of the first Caravan in 2000, en route to the 'Valley of the Kyangs' and Tso Moriri.

We had rain, snow, heat, and difficult conditions, from Dagmar's blisters to Seth's awesome singing to beach parties a la British seaside resorts (rain, drizzle and fog). We had rivers in flood that Lobsang got us over and Lhakpa swam in (accidentally), but thanks to our great crew and our logistical expertise, we had an awesome adventure!

[Almost the entire Indian state of Gujarat was flooded at this time].

L-R: Joel, Kim, Max, Steve, Seth and Dagmar.

2005 Zanskar ice

Chadar Zanskar - India

The summer way into Zanskar crosses many passes, in winter the locals simply walk the frozen Zanskar River, and we will follow into the Kingdom of Zangla, perhaps with some exploring.

Dates: 30 Jan-26 Feb 2005, 28 days. Services: light expedition-style. Leader: Joel Schone. Cost: US$2220.
team: Ben** and Diana**, Tad Hardee and Peter.

Snowstorms, avalanches, and very bad ice conditions means that few of the trekking groups that set out to walk the Chadar in early February made it to the kingdom of Zangla, and if they did, they flew out, one experience of the frozen Zanskar being enough. We made Zangla in time for Tibetan New Year, and a good chang party, before returning the way we came; even Lobsang, Eskimo extraordinaire on ice, said we were lucky to do it in such conditions. [The news was filled with the 175 people in Kashmir who died in avalanches and under 4 metres of snow at this very time].

Thanks to Tad, Ben, Diana, and Peter (the Dane) for being such good company as we had cocktail parties in caves, sat out long afternoons in Pidmo and Neraks, breaking trails, and above all, sharing the adventure!

Chadar Zanskar - India

The summer way into Zanskar crosses many passes, in winter the locals simply walk the frozen Zanskar River... We build on Joel's Feb 2002 trek, which he is still raving about.

Dates: 6-26 Jan, 21 days. Services: light expedition-style. Leader: Joel Schone. Cost: US$1980.
Team: Markus* and Christine*.

When the seasons 'ad its day
And you're countin' up your pay
You can keep your fancy haunts
(and I'll ignore your taunts)
Because there is a place I know I'd rather be
Where the Indus starts to freeze
And frost smoke wreathes the trees
We took the Chadar route
To where Zanskar lay....

 

 

2004 Ladakh Summer

Ladakh Canyonlands – Ladakh, India

The place we love the best, with an incredible new route to the tiny Kingdom of Zangla and its fortified palace via some of the most beautiful high passes in the region. We finish in the Indus valley through the red-tinted canyons of the Jumlam, the 'middle way'. A trek for lovers of remote canyons, wild routes, wildlife, and the Ladakhi people.

Dates: 5-28 Sept, 24 days. Services: expedition-style. Leaders: Joel and Kim. Cost: $2340.
Team; Bob R****, Fred, Pik C*, and Jim (for part).

Hard new routes are hard work, and though we got some stomach bugs and early snow, we thoroughly enjoyed Project Himalaya's second outing on the incredible Jumlam, from a spectacular but difficult start in the Shillakong gorge, through bear country and countless rivers Bob did some extra 'exploring', showing up at camp after dark as Joel searched down the valley for him (and we made sure dinner was hot!), Fred sang the whole way through the trek and helped us all across the rivers, Pik was just great company, and Bob, well Bob ... ! Kim & Joel had a hard time keeping up, but are officially much more zen-like.

Himalayan Wild - Zanskar-Ladakh, India

In 2003 we discovered a complex of stunning valleys in the heart of the trans Himalaya of Ladakh, and this year we return to take time to explore them more fully, while taking in most of the classic Zanskar traverse.

Dates: 7 Aug-3 Sept, 28 days. Services: expedition-style. Leaders: Kim and Joel. Cost: $2340.
Team: Melissa, Matt, Ellie, Joel Singer, and 'werewolf' Tom.

Every year we get amazing trekkers (where DO they all come from, we wonder), and this trip was among the 'best of' in terms of laughs and diversity in such a small group. Kim finally got Colorado ex-housemate (or landlord, if the truth must be known) and Big Aggie rep, Melissa (you all know the Big Agnes products?) out to India to trek, so lots of catching up and girl talk! We had an incredible day or two in bear valley, Joel had Kim collapsing in fits of laughter when he took the bear spray to the toilet and the weather was full on classic Zanskar; hot. Joel Singer was in the kitchen with Temba and the fish sauce many evenings, Matt & Ellie kept a journal of 'did-this-really-happen'ings and kept us in stitches, Tom, Melissa & Kim howled to the wolf-like moon at the end of the trek (even Sherap joined in), Kim & Melissa discovered an injured horse that they fell in love with, and Tom was just some of the best company you could ask for. Come back!

Ellie, Kim, Tom, Joel Singer and Melissa. Joel took the pictures and Matt was hours ahead!

Caravan 6000 exploratory - Ladakh, India

WILD. We continue our exploration series and hope to reach the mysterious "Rupshu Icecap" as pilots call it. A 6000+m mountain or two beckon, and a few little-used mountain passes.

Dates: 10 Aug-4 Sep, 26 days. Services: expedition-style. Leader: Jamie McGuinness. Cost: US$2480.
Team: Eric S**, Brian and Andriya.

Classic exploration, and someone said you have to suffer to enjoy. We did suffer cold river crossings, freezing rain occasionally and a few tummy bugs but also thoroughly enjoyed it. Yes, we climbed a 6000m mountain, not the one intended, and crossed the mysterious Rupshu Ice Field--we know its secrets--and left the region using two passes that few trekkers have ever crossed. Jamie explored two other passes and we will explore this area further next year. With a slightly early finish that gave us time to explore Dharmasala as well.

Clockwise: Lobsang, Eric, Andriya, Brian and Rana (cook); Jamie took the photo.

Caravans of Changtang – Ladakh, India

Our classic route through the high pastures of the nomads of the Changtang in its 5th year; and although a few trekkers have discovered the awesome beauty of the high Tibetan plateau and its unique wildlife, we are perhaps the only company that stops for salt butter tea and dried apricots with our nomad friends in their yak wool tents.

Dates: 7 July-7 Aug, 32 days. Services: expedition-style. Leaders: Kim and Joel. Cost: US$2560.
Hemis Festival and Caravans of the Changtang together, cost: US$3260.
Team 1: Tom J**, Corrine, Matt** and Helen**, Gerard, Kevin and Daireen Macaffrey.
Team 2: Dave D**, Dave G, Annie, Russell and 'Zouska', Corrin** & Sarah, with Corrine and Tom joining for most of the trek.
Team 3: Jean**, Jenny, Kirsty, Lou*****, Michelle**, Steve, Lois, Don****, Jim, Steve, and Chris.

You want logistics? This summer we proved we were the masters. We started in two groups until Nimaling when Joel did the pass to Rumtse with Matt and Helen and the Caffrey family, and Tom and Corrine, 'formerly known as Team 1', joined Kim's team. Then the Caffreys returned to Leh with Joel, and Matt and Helen headed for Tso Kar and Tso Moriri, and in Leh Joel picked up Jean, Jenny, Kirsty, Lou, Michelle, Steve, Lois, Don, Jim, Steve, and Chris ... and headed to Tso Moriri via Pang where we all met up. Kim's group went a day ahead on the Parang La, and we all met up in Manali for a huge meal. We had TERRIBLE weather but with trekkers like this, who cares?

Kamden, Daireen, Kevin and Gerard, Helen** and Matt**, Joel front

Kim's group had a bit of 'front and back' trauma, but in the end it was somewhat sorted out, and we had enough laughs (not least of which were supplied by 'Miss Zouska', who irregularly appeared in the dining tent with spiky hair) to smooth out the wrinkles. En route, we almost adopted a pet goat (who peed on Kim), climbed a few unmarked 'prayer flag peaks', had a real 'happy hour' in the dining tent in Dat, many climbed a 6000 meter peak atop a 5800 meter pass with Lobsang, who had just lost his horse (which he had just bought the day before; found on Jamie's next trek!), we camped over 5000 meters in beautiful meadows next to the nomads, did some nomad shopping at 5100 meters, and really just had an amazing time. We left the trailblazing to Dave, Annie, Charlene & Corrine. The excitement continued after the trek as we had to negotiate sections of a mountainside below the Rotang pass, the road being lost to a landslide - in the dark! Excitement being the order of the day during this trek ...

Kirsty, Lou, Jenny, Jean and Michelle

Hemis Festival and Nubra - Ladakh, India

Short but sensational. Once every 12 years the famous brocade tangka is unveiled - this year. After the festival we embark on a short trek to the lovely, desert Nubra valley with its Bactrian camels and willow trees.

Updated dates: 25 June-7 July, 13 days. Services: expedition-style. Leaders: Kim and Joel. Cost: $1300.
Team: Carsten newly married*****, Samuel, Tom J*, Marina**.

After the colorful Hemis festival, we trekked up the stunning valley in back of Leh towards the pass to Nubra, but snow conditions meant we could not get over the pass (but we did get to the top!), so after a few cracked ribs (Kim's) and some awesomely beautiful campsites, we drove over the highest motor-able pass in the world to Nubra and had a fine time anyway! Carsten, Marina & Samuel, veteran trekkers, broke in the newly arrived Tom, fresh for his next trek with us!

Markha Valley for Robert and family

Robert, Hallie and Sandy after 3 years of planning, and it went like a dream! Robert does a fine impersonation of a British Colonel and we coped with heat, and deep snow; and a deeply appreciative group...come back soon!

Zanskar Spring - Zanskar-Ladakh, India

Our timeless Zanskar odyssey into Ladakh, the 'land of passes'. Zanskar is a remote kingdom of warm, colourful people, traditional whitewashed villages with lush fields, dramatic cliffs and spectacular hilltop monasteries. This year we trek a route variation pioneered in 2003 and as a bonus time our arrival in Leh to coincide with the Hemis festival (see below).

Dates: 4 June-2 July, 29 days. Services: expedition-style. Leader: Kim (and Joel for part). Cost: $2480.
Team: Neal, Marina*, Samuel, Ken, Kathryn, Uta, Roland, Lorenz & Christine.

What a group we had for the first of our epic summer of treks, never a lull in conversation in the dining tent, and rarely on the trail either, starting with a crossing of the Shingo La where Joel, sadly, had to leave us, discovering 'ancient bon rituals', getting through quite a few bottles of rum in our Tibetan dining tent at night (except for Marina), hot-hot-hot in Zanksar, so Samuel in his impeccable outfits left us for the cooler climes of Leh before the Nubra trek, Ken for a mysterious other person in far-off places. Neal kept us laughing throughout the harder times, Kathryn kept us enthralled with stories of exotic places and Marina with 'the bizarre and unexpected', and Uta, Lorenz and Christine added a bit of class to the trip, Uta knitting her way through the Himalayas (and giving Kim THE most wonderful pair of multi-colored socks after the trek!). And the shopping just never stopped, yak-hair rugs the toast of the dining tent!

click for back to top of this page