6000m-6500m peaks climbing gear discussion

Mostly we try to climb in near perfect conditions, and we plan our climbs at the best times of the year. It is cold during early starts and later in the day the wind might pick up and it is possible that bad weather can move in. Normally, by this stage we are heading down.

6000m-6500m mountaineering gear

Many people spend a lot on gear that isn't entirely necessary, so consider carefully what you need and remember that if conditions are horrible, it is unlikely that we will be climbing. Conditions may worsen during the day but if that is the case, we will be on our way down.

However, if you are a real climber and don't mind climbing in rougher conditions, should that be the case, then bring good gear and we won't waste an opportunity.

What to expect

When it is sunny with no wind a thermal top is enough, backed up by a fleece or light down jacket for rest stops and a windproof breathable jacket for when the wind picks up (Gore-Tex, Windstopper or similar).

Additional gear

This assumes you have all the trekking gear like warm hat etc, on the trekking equipment list. 

+ wraparound high quality sunglasses (or with side pieces). Ski goggles are unnecessary.

+ neck gaiter or balaclava; one or the other

+ new liner gloves (ie thin gloves)

+ fleece/windstopper gloves

+ windproof gloves/mittens if you don't have windstopper ones.

+ windproof pants/climbing bibs - these don't have to be fancy and you can buy in Kathmandu cheaply

+ snow gaiters

+ Plastic boots/leather boots - see the discussion below

+ leather boot waterproofing (snow seal etc)

+ trekking pole

Climbing gear

The majority of this is available in Kathmandu. We rent sets out. None of this is available in India.

+ ice axe, non-technical is generally better

+ crampons

+ light harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod is perfect)

+ jumar

+ belay device: ATC or figure of 8 etc

+ two locking carabiners, two ordinary ones

+ two prussiks, one short, one longer

Helmet

It is always sensible to climb with a helmet, but it is one more thing to carry and only use for a few hours. For the trekking peaks it is rare for climbers to use a helmet, but that is your decision.

Boots

If you have plastic boots, bring them. If you don't and you are not a climber, consider carefully whether you need to get them or not - you will only be using them for a single day... For Chulu Far East and Tengkoma good all leather boots are quite adequate. For Island Peak in Dec and Mera Peak any time, you need plastics - OR I have 4 sets of super-gaiters, ie full insulated over-boots, and with GOOD (ie stiff) leather boots, these are an alternative to plastics.

For India 6000m peaks GOOD leather boots are adequate.

Gear for rent

We rent out ice axes, crampons, harnesses and all you need with them.

Plastic boots are available for rent in Kathmandu, but during the main Oct season they are often out of stock.

In Kathmandu you can cheaply buy side-zip windproof pants (not stylish, but they do the job), fleece gloves and windproof mittens (but not thin liner gloves).

In India very little gear is available, and is all of cheap inferior quality.

Who carries what for the climb

You carry a day pack with your personal gear including down jacket, crampons, harness etc, so your pack can end up quite full. If anyone is struggling and the guides and/or sherpas have space, they can lighten your load.

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