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Everest North Col climb - Tibet

We get 7000m high on Everest

This is a trip of highlights, from Lhasa and the eighth wonder Potala Palace to the drive along the Friendship highway to trekking up to the 6380m ABC (sometimes called Camp 3). Then we climb to 7000m on North Col using the fixed ropes of the Everest expeditions (the above photo). Wow!

Itinerary

Note that most North Col itineraries show teams staying at "Camp 1", the old Mallory camp 1, then Interim then old "Camp 2" (Changtse BC) and finally only ABC ("Camp 3"). In the spring this itinerary is not realistic, at least until the Everest expeditions have finished, so we stay several more nights at BC, Interim and ABC to acclimate properly.

Day 1 - Sunday, 27 April 2008 - arrive Kathmandu

2 - Kathmandu

3 - Kathmandu sightseeing

4 - Fly Kathmandu 1350m to Lhasa 3660m

5 - in Lhasa 3660m

6 - in Lhasa 3660m

7 - drive Shigatse 3900m ~250 km

8 - drive Shegar 4350m ~244km

9 - rest Shegar 4350m

10 - drive Everest Base Camp 5150m

11 - Everest Base Camp 5150m

12 - Everest Base Camp 5150m

13 - Everest Base Camp 5150m

14 - trek to Interim Camp 5760m

15 - Interim Camp acclimatization 5760m

16 - trek to Everest ABC 6340m

17 - ABC acclimatizing

18 - ABC acclimatizing

19 - climb North Col, return ABC

This is a strenuous climb with one short near-vertical ice section and perhaps a few ladders, like in the photo on the left.

20 - trek down to Base Camp

The second tough day in a row so you need to start early and move fast otherwise this can be a long day.

21 - spare day

22 - drive Zhangmu / Nyalam

23 - drive Kathmandu

Day 24 - Tuesday, 20 May - depart

Highlights

6380m - highest trek in the world

7000m North Col climbing on Everest

meet Everest expeditions

spectacular views of Everest

2008 Dates

no departure

2009

Details in June 2008

Organizer

Jamie McGuinness

Mobile: (+977) 98021 49789

Home: (+977 1) 436 0005

Leader

Billi Bierling or ?

Local office contact

Navin, Kedar, Samir or Prachandra

tel 441 8100, 441 8100 9am-6pm

Navin mobile: 98510 04278

Kedar mobile: 98510 64911

Arrival hotel

Hotel Marshyangdi, Thamel

tel: 470 0514, 470 0105

Our service includes

3 star hotel in Kathmandu, single with breakfast

Kathmandu sightseeing tour

Kathmandu-Lhasa flight

twin-share hotels and guesthouses in Tibet

China (Tibet) visa

airport transfers

group transportation by private vehicle

entrance fees and permits as needed

expedition-style trek:

all meals and hot drinks on trek

roomy single tent on trek

Our service excludes

insurance, Nepal visa

Kathmandu departure tax (Rs1695)

emergency evacuation/early departure

international flights, equipment rental, alcohol and soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Erika on the last section to North Col - Jamie McGuinness

 

Detailed itinerary

We begin with two full days in Kathmandu then fly to Lhasa, stay 2 full days then drive to Rongbuk and Everest Base Camp. After some acclimatization we trek up to Everest ABC, sometimes called Camp 3 at 6340m, and after a couple more days acclimatizing then we climb up to the North Col at just over 7000m on a day trip, then trek out and drive onto Kathmandu.

Also note that we expect to fly to Lhasa on a Wednesday, assuming there Wednesday flights. If they have yet to start then we will fly to Lhasa on Tuesday and the whole itinerary will be brought forward by a day, and there will be one full day in Kathmandu on return.

Early arrival

Arriving early can be a great way to begin unwinding, we will arrange airport transfer and hotel, no problem.

Day 1 - arrive Kathmandu

You must arrive this day or earlier. You’ll be met at the airport, look for a Project Himalaya signboard, perhaps with your name on it.

Usually your leader will meet you at the hotel and show you around Thamel. Thamel is a mass of energy and chaos with a myriad banners, signs, pumping music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels and eccentrically clad backpackers. Normally we meet at Sam's bar over a drink before dinner.

We collect your passports ready for processing the Chinese visa tomorrow, and discuss how to acclimatize for Lhasa.

Day 2 - Kathmandu

Today we’ll explore the sights of Kathmandu and the valley (opens in a new window) with a good local guide. Many trekkers are already familiar with Kathmandu so we match the sightseeing itinerary to what people haven't seen before.

Day 3 - Kathmandu

You have a free day and this is a good time to sort out any equipment that you need.

Day 4 - fly Kathmandu 1350m to Lhasa 3660m

We check in early for the for the hour long flight to Tibet. This spectacular flight, on a China Airlines Boeing takes us right across the main Himalayan range and provides us with magnificent mountain views. After landing at Gonggar Airport and meeting our Tibetan guide, it is 45 minutes more to Lhasa via the new tunnel. It's advisable to rest or take it easy for the remainder of the day due to Lhasa's altitude.

Days 5 and 6 - in Lhasa 3660m

Today will be spent visiting four of Lhasa's main sites, two each day, in the company of a guide-interpreter. The order is decided by the guide.

We visit Sera Monastery or Depung Monastery, both are the best preserved monasteries in Tibet. Within their white-washed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study.

Norbulingka is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, a quiet place of gardens and a pleasant house with impressive murals of Tibetan history and beliefs.

The Jokhang (temple) is the most sacred shrine in Tibet and on public days there is a procession of devout Tibetans through the complex. This is the real Tibet as it was and is usually a highlight of the trip. Surrounding the Jokhang is the Barkor - a maze of narrow cobbled streets which is the central market of Lhasa and since our hotel is close to this you can wander around any time.

The Potala is the icon of Tibet, with its eighth wonder architecture, and dominates the city of Lhasa. A spectacular building, it contains the private quarters of the Dalai Lama as well as numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.

It is also extremely busy. Once past the ticket office and thru the main courtyard, from that point you might only be allowed one hour for the interior, you guide will explain the latest rules. You do have plenty of time prior to the point, however.

Day 7 - drive Shigatse 3900m ~250 km

We drive to Shigatse, arriving in time for a late lunch. Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet and Tashilunpo Monastary is the seat of the Panchen Lama, often considered the second most important Rinpoche after the Dalai Lama. Tashilhunpo Monastery is one of the largest functioning monasteries in Tibet and there is much to explore within its high surrounding walls.

Day 8 - drive Shegar 4350m ~244km

We continue along the Friendship Highway. Beyond the small town of Lhatse we cross the highest pass on our journey, the Gyamtso La, 5220m. From here we descend to some of the most spectacular panoramas of the drive.

During the 1921 expedition a madman attacked their camp stoves here.

Day 9 - Shegar 4350m

This is a rest and acclimatization day. The best day trip is to walk or drive to the new town of Shegar and climb to the monastery and past that to the top of the fort.

Day 10 - drive Everest Base Camp 5150m 76km

Shortly after leaving Shegar, we turn off the Friendship Highway and head south over the Pang La 5150m towards the main Himalayan range. The view from the top is incredible with uninterrupted views stretching from Makalu to Shishapangma, and including Everest. Below the pass, Everest initially is hidden from view, but as we turn the corner into the upper Rongbuk Valley it reappears, more impressive than ever.

Days 11, 12 and 13 - Everest Base Camp 5150m

We rest here several days to acclimatize; it is important to be well acclimatized prior to trekking to Interim Camp. How often do you get a chance to sit and read and dine with the sheer north face of the highest mountain in the world towering above us. There are several possible day trips.

Day 14 - trek to Interim Camp 5760m

We begin in a dusty ablation valley with views of Pumori, Lingtren and even Nuptse then branch off up the East Rongbuk valley. The trail climbs moraine rubble. Nearby, the first ice seracs [ice pinnacles] rise like white sails from the dark debris-laden surface of the glacier.

Day 14 - Interim Camp 5760m

We spend a day here in the intermediate camp, resting to further acclimatize. This is another good chance to finish that book.

Day 16 - trek to ABC 6340m

The Rongbuk Glacier is an impressive frozen ocean of ice waves; the views of the glacier and the Himalayan peaks are some of the most dramatic in Tibet. Along the middle moraine of the glacier is the trail that expeditions use to begin their climbs of Everest and this is the trail we are taking. About two hours above the Interim camp the central ridgeline leads in to a confused of ice at the confluence with the Changtse glacier, and this is Changtse Base Camp [5970m] which is sometimes called Camp 2; it was the 1920's and 1930's camp 2. The appropriately named Serac Highway continues to extend its unusual gravel arm trough the centre of the of the ice formations.

Rounding the corner, first Lhakpa Ri Base Camp comes into view, then eventually Everest ABC (The old "Camp 3"), and this last section is always tough.

Days 17 and 18 - ABC acclimatization

We have a well-deserved rest, taking a couple of days to acclimatize here at Advance Base Camp (ABC). We meet some of the expeditions here. The summit pyramid of Everest appears phenomenally close; it is little more than 2400 metres higher than ABC. This is the closest non-climbers can get to the top of Everest. With a pair of binoculars, you are almost there...

Day 19 - North Col-ABC

We climb to the top of North Col, just over 7000m, for fantastic views across Tibet and into Nepal. Mountains litter the horizon.

Day 20 - spare day

This is a spare day that covers bad weather and other unforeseen events. If you are on schedule with the itinerary you might just want to trek to interim camp to break the long trek down...

Day 21 - trek down to Base Camp

This is a  LONG day's trekking down to Base Camp but to much lower, more comfortable altitudes.

Day 22 - drive Nyalam 3750m or Zhangmu 2400m

We normally take the shortcut to Tingri where we have lunch. Beyond Tingri are more views of Everest, Cho Oyu and other giants. Then we cross two high passes, the Lalung La (5124m) and the Shung La (5200m). Once more we are rewarded with magnificent views, this time Menlungtse and Gauri Shankar, and to the right of the road is Shishapangma. Over the last pass we begin the long descent leaving the arid Tibetan Plateau into the gorge to Zhangmu. Where we stay depends on the driver and Tibetan guide.

Day 23 - drive Kathmandu

We wait in line for Immigration. A few kilometres further is the Friendship Bridge which spans the Bhote Kosi River and marks the Chinese - Nepalese border. We say goodbye to our Tibetan guide and driver and walk to Nepalese Immigration Control in Kodari where we will be met by our Nepalese staff. After completing the re-entry formalities we continue the drive to Kathmandu which, depending on road and weather conditions, should take about 5 hours. It's time to get cleaned up at the hotel, which has abundant hot water.

Day 24 - depart

Farewell. We take you to the airport for your flight home. We hope you had a fantastic trip, the journey of a lifetime.

You are welcome to arrive earlier / stay longer in Kathmandu and we can assist with hotels, tours, showing you around etc.

Our trekkers say

Anyways, I just wanted to thank you again for all your help and patience in getting us to the North Col on that perfect HOT day in May. Your guidance was most appreciated and I always felt taken care of with the whole crew.

It was great fun being with an easygoing group and I learned a ton again up there....and not just how to get that oxygen mask ready for Eric!! I am still pretty thrilled at being on the Col and the pictures are great reminders. First time to 7000m for me was TOUGH but I am pumped to be able to have done it and still smile while I was up there!

Troy Smereka, CHE North Col 2006

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