Project Himalaya Nepal | Manaslu trek

Detailed Itinerary

Our journey begins in the middle hills of historic Gorhka, with its wonderful 'durbar' or palace, home to the king who first united Nepal. From these lush rice paddies, water buffalo and thatched huts, we trek north along the mountain-capped high route, through sprawling Gurung villages perched on high, terraced hilltops, to reach Kutang, or lower Manaslu. Here the ethnically Tibetan inhabitants speak their own dialect, partly Tibetan and partly Gurung, and live a lifestyle that spans Nepal and Tibet. We continue trekking to upper Nubri, purely Tibetan, where trade with Tibet continues as it has for centuries, and we share the trails with yak caravans. The incredible mountain panoramas begin after the first few days, and we have plenty of time to enjoy the view and meet the villagers as we have added extra days at the most beautiful Tibetan villages, Sama Gaon and Samdo, before crossing the epic Larkya La pass. And of course we camp in our special 'Kamzang' style ...

*Note that although we try to follow the itinerary below, at times local trail or weather conditions may make slight changes necessary. The trekking itinerary may also vary slightly depending on our trekkers' acclimatization rates.

Early Arrival

Providing you have sent us your arrival details, you will be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House (look for their sign - they will be looking for you) and escorted to the guest house. Kim will book the extra nights for you, so your room will be ready.

Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m

You'll be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House, so look out for a Kathmandu guest house sign when you leave the airport. They will bring you back to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms are booked.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the main tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner we check your insurance details (please have a copy of your travel medical insurance policy with you), go over gear and get to know each other over a beer at New Orleans cafe ...

Day 2 - Kathmandu

Explore the Kathmandu valley a bit with Kim. Options: Climb the many steps to Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with its commanding views of Kathmandu (at 1420 m), its whitewashed stupas and its unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional gompas, and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, Boudhanath attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square, one of the old capitals of the Kathmandu valley, is a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist temples, stupas and statues, and is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath and its sacred temple complex on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating - when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees.

We'll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to do this, and in the evening will head out for dinner of wood-oven pizza at the Roadhouse Cafe.

Day 3 - Drive to Gorkha. Trek to camp above Gorkha Fort 1060m

We're up early for our scenic six-hour drive from Kathmandu to the historic town of Gorkha, once the capital of a massive Kingdom which included parts of lower Tibet, with it's old 'durbar', or King's palace, a mix of Buddhist and Hindu deities, perched high up in the surrounding hillsides and reached by worn stone steps. After organizing the gear and loads with the porters, we head up to our first night's campsite above the Gorkha Fort, stopping en route to visit this well-maintained site, home of the powerful Gorhka royalty until about a century ago. We can see the crew setting up camp from the top of the fort; once at camp, we will introduce you to our 'Kamzang Style' dining tent and your personal Big Agnes or Marmot tents.

Day 4 - Trek to Arkole 570m

The middle hills of Nepal are timeless, and we trek for the first two days through classic middle hills scenery; rolling, forested hills, snaking rivers with rounded rock strewn on the beaches, local fishermen casting their nets, iridescent rice fields, papaya, lemon and orange trees, water buffalos, thatched huts and local 'battis' (Nepali tea-houses) along the trail for a quick dal bhaat or cup of chai. We camp along the beach at a lovely campsite just below the small village of Arkole, and enjoy our first mountain sunset over the adjacent river. Jump in! The village kids with surely be by to see what's happening, perhaps carry a basket of beer. Take advantage while we're still low in altitude!

Day 5 - Trek to Kalibote 800m

A continuation of yesterday's lovely scenery, we trek though bustling Gurung villages, over several swaying suspension bridges spanning the river, and we reach our camp at Kalibote in the early afternoon. Tomorrow we have a steep climb ahead of us, and this is the last campsite before the (large) hill. You can head down to the river and perch yourselves on the smooth river rocks for a wash after our hot day if you like, and afterwards chilled beers are available from an enterprising little tea-house next to camp. The staff might even pick up some small fish for dinner ...

Day 6 - Trek to Barpak 1915m

Have a big breakfast this morning; we head off early to avoid the afternoon sun for our steep, long climb up to the wonderful village of Barpak, situated perfectly on a green ridge overlooking the misty valley below. Barpak is a large Gurung village, extremely clean, with a weekly market, wide alleys between the houses, grain and vegetables drying outside on the patios, several shops, viewpoints and flowers planted along the decks of these Gurung houses. We arrive in time for lunch, and have the afternoon to wander the narrow streets of the village, a photographers paradise. The villagers often organize 'cultural shows', the proceeds of which go to improving the village, so we might be treated to one in the early evening.

Day 7 - Trek to Laprak 2200m

Another early start and another climb; after a few hours, we reach the ridge, officially a pass, which separates Laprak and Barpak, and are rewarded with panoramic mountain views (along with herds of sheep grazing on the grassy hillsides) from the peak. Bring a wind jacket as the clouds often move quickly up to this ridge, and it gets cold quickly. Another hour or two brings us down to another large Gurung village, Laprak, perhaps not quite as scenic as Barpak but just as interesting. The Maoists often stay in this village, and we might be paid a visit for some friendly indoctrination. Again, we have the afternoon free to explore the village; take a look into some of the houses, all with symbolic murals on the mud-brick walls.

Day 8 - Trek to Korlebesi 875m

A classic Nepali trekking day; it's an extremely steep decent to the river, and after crossing a very rickety suspension bridge, we climb equally steeply back up, past terraced fields of pink sorghum and rice. We contour around several hillsides on a narrow trail, barely visible at times, up to a small chorten just below the village of Singla. From here, the going is easy, and we enjoy the views of the Manaslu Himal, Kutang Himal and Sringi Himal to the north as we walk down through more terraced fields and papaya trees, through the Gurung village of Korla, and then down along a narrow, winding trail to Korlebesi on the Buri Gandaki river. Look out for the local women weaving straw mats in the village. We cross a long suspension bridge to reach our campsite just below the village, next to a small tributary stream. We will probably get a visit in the evening from this village's cultural ambassadors, and perhaps have another show ...

Day 9 - Trek to Jagat 1370m

A few hours of walking by tobacco and buckwheat fields, past rocks washed smooth by the river, we reach the hot springs in the centre of the small, terraced village of Tatopani, where we have plenty of time to soak our grungy bodies in the gushing hot water, and then perhaps go for a swim in the icy river below, drying off on the wonderful river-side beach. A gentle climb through the woods past some spectacular waterfalls, across another suspension bridge and through a short section of forest path and we reach Dobhan, where we stop for lunch. Above Dobhan, the Buri Gandaki descends in an impressive series of steep rapids. Here, our trail climbs high above the river to descend through what appears to be a huge gateway into some secret place; in front the valley widens, the river calms, and we splash through streams before coming into our camp below Jagat, the entrance to the Manaslu park. It is worth wandering around this beautiful, paved village, where proud villagers have recorded how much they contributed to these paving schemes. Our campsite is impressively clean and grassy, with cold beers available at the shop next door.

Day 10 - Trek to Phillim 1570m

After descending a long series of stone steps to the river, we climb a terraced hill to Saguleri, from where we can see the impressive Sringi Himal, 7187m. We pass through the charming, paved village of Sirdibas, where the local children might be selling oranges. Crossing the river again via a long suspension bridge at Gata Khola, the path splits, with the right-hand branch heading off towards the Ganesh Himal. Our route continues upstream, and again we have a steep climb to reach Phillim and its Japanese sponsored school. It's a shorter day today, only about three hours, so we have the afternoon free to explore the interesting upper village, or sit and enjoy the afternoon at camp.

Day 11 - Deng 1865m

At the start of our four to five hour day, we pass through Eklai Bhatti, and then on through a narrow, dramatic gorge section with towering walls, and past a thundering waterfall just above us on the right of the trail. We cross the river three more times in the next two hours (often small, badly maintained bridges, Nepali style) to avoid the difficult valley sides; the first bridge, a new one, is at the intersection to Tsum valley, a remote valley leading to Tibet. After trekking through dense woods for over an hour, we pass the cold campsite of Pewa on the river, and after another hour we leave the gorge and climb briefly to the small village of Deng. This is the start of the lower Nubri region called Kutang, where the people are ethnically Tibetan but speak a different dialect than the people of upper Nubri where the people are pure Tibetans. The Kutang dialect, called 'kukay', is a mix of Tibeto-Burman and Gurung. We have views of Lumbo Himal to the rear, as well as Lapuchen and Dwijen Himals. We camp just below the village, and get fresh greens from the family that owns the land. It's worth a visit to the upper floor of their house above us, perhaps for a glass of local 'chang', or Tibetan beer, and for a chat around the hearth. It starts to feel like a piece of old Tibet at last.

Day 12 - Trek to Ghap 2165n

Another five hour day. The valley is still steep-sided and impressive; after twenty minutes, we cross the bridge and switchback up to the village of Lana and then Bihi Phedi (where there is a good shop and views of Kutang Himal), and start to see mani stones (prayers etched onto wayside rocks, particularly mani stones with pictures of gods and goddesses), a sure sign that we are entering another of the tiny Tibetan footholds that mark the high Himalayan places. We have about four hours of trekking ahead of us, twice crossing the large Buri Gandaki and twice over smaller tributary streams, staying mostly high with many ascents and descents as we walk through the gorge, all the time enjoying spectacular views. Eventually we reach Ghap, where we set up camp for the night at the house of some wonderful villagers. The egg-shells strung above their 'tea-house' door prevent the evil spirits from entering the house. The sun goes down early here, so we will cross the small bridge spanning the Buri Gandaki and trek steeply up for 45 minutes to the village of Chaak, where the son of the tea-house owner lives with his family. There is a small, deserted gompa, carved mani stones (the style here is distinctly different that most other Tibetan Buddhist regions), and some Tibetans from Samdo who graze their yaks here. In the village, they will be drying their maize to grind into flour, and then trade with the people of upper Nubri, and we might be invited into the son's house for some Tibetan salt-butter tea and roasted maize on the cob. Look out across the river for views of the village of Prok perched on the plateau jutting over the river below us. From Chaak, you can trek further to Kwak, and there is a trail up to Shringi Himal base camp. A fire recently destroyed the gompa at Kwak.

Day 13 - Trek to Lho 3180m

Today is a wonderful trekking day; after passing through the seemingly deserted seasonal village of Nambachhe, planted with fields of barley and lined with mani walls, we ascend through a dense, cool forest for an half an hour, crossing the Buri Gandaki once on a wooden bridge, to Namrung, at 2540 meters, where we will stop for a cup of chai at a lodge run by a Tibetan family. As we gain altitude, we reach alpine territory and are treated to increasing mountain views. Namrung village is the start of Nubri, the region of purely Tibetan inhabitants speaking a dialect of western Tibet. Above this village the valley opens out and there are extensive pastures. A few hours later, we reach the village of Lihi at 2840 meters, a substantial altitude gain. We are climbing climb gently now, cross a large stream flowing down from the Lidanda Glaciers, and reach the picturesque Tibetan village of Sho at 3000m, where we stop for lunch. Look for the bear claw on the upper deck of the house, and across the river to the ruins of an old Tibetan fort. From Sho, the views of Ngadi Chuli are spectacular, and further on, towards Lho, we are finally treated to views of Manaslu itself; quite an impressive afternoon! We set up camp in Lho, a lively village adorned with many prayer flags, in the yard of a small lodge. Sunset and sunrise from the campsite are wonderful, and the small gompa just below our campsite worth a visit.

Day 14 - Trek to Sama Gaon (Ro) 3525m

Walking through the upper reaches of Lho, with the snowy peaks of Manaslu ahead of us in the distance, we pass the new gompa and then ascend through light forests next to a small river to reach the Tibetan settlement of Shyla, where the villagers are often out in the fields. Another few hours of trekking through classic alpine scenery leads us past Tibet grazing settlements, the train to Pung Gyan Gompa, and then Sama Gaon, or Ro, as the locals call it. Sama Gaon sits in a bowl at the foot of the pastures leading to the high peaks, with mani walls, a small gompa and tightly packed rows of houses at the lower reaches of village, and the large gompa at the upper reaches. The people settled here from Tibet over 500 years ago, and the two gompas date from this time, both having unique architecture and built of wood. The Tibetan villages here have entrance gates which are very distinctive from the Tibetan ones, and they maintain an active trade with their co-religionists in Tibet (notice the Chinese brandy and beer on sale). If the weather is good, you will see the village women weaving wool (baal) from Tibet into gowns - which are then traded back to Tibet. Taxes were actually paid to the Dzongka Dzong (fortress) at the border of Tibet, a few days walk from Sama Gaon, as late as the 1940's until it was taken over by the Gorkas in the late 19th century. Later, after 1959, the region was home to Tibetan guerillas, and thus closed to trekking until 1992.

Take the afternoon to hike up to the gompa above town, and to wander the streets of the fascinating Sama Gaon village.

Day 15 - Sama Gaon

We have two nights here, a full day to explore the village and gompas; a little piece of old Tibet! This is also an extra day in case anyone is having trouble acclimatizing ...

Another option is a long day-hike up to Pung Gyen Gompa, at 3870 meters, a stunning walk up an often icy and slippery trail along the Numla Khola and the Pung Gyen glacier past Tibetan 'kharkas' or seasonal herding settlements, with unbeatable views of Manaslu near the gompa. The gompa was mostly destroyed by an avalanche in 1953, and recently rebuilt. The complex includes a cave gompa as well, which affords even better views of the valley.

Day 16 - Trek to Samdo 3850m

Another day of incredible mountain views during the walk up to Samdo, an easy three hours away. En route we pas the long mani walls at Kermo Kharka, after which we spot the entrance chorten of Samdo high on a bluff. We descend back to the Bhudi Gandaki and cross a small bridge before another short climb to the 'kane' entrance of Samdo; look back down valley for great views. The villagers of Samdo came across the border from the village of Riu after 1959 and built their new village here, at their old herding settlement (see below). Samdo village is a collection of houses and lodges at 3850 meters, and most trekkers miss the heat of a week ago as we huddle around the stove and a wind from Tibet batters the windowpanes. Get out and take a walk around the village, where the inhabitants live an essentially Tibetan lifestyle, herding their yaks, sheep and goats, training their horses and planting barley. There is a small home gompa in a house mid-village which we visited during our last village, a puja being held by several of the reincarnated lamas living in the Samdo.

Day 17 - Samdo

On our rest day here why not a day trip to the border of Tibet; no passport required. It takes five hours walking to the Gya La ('large pass') to do just that, and then take in the views and ruminate on the border markers at the top: 'China, 1962.' We will probably share the trail with groups of Samdo residents, carrying timbers over the border to Tibet. True High Asia!

Like the people of Ro, Samdo inhabitants are Tibetan, and were ceded the land by the king of Jumla over 500 years ago; but, unlike the Ro people, they only claimed their land after the Chinese takeover in the early 1950s. Since then they have established a trade with China and India, marketing among other things, the aphrodisiac root that grows in the region. We'll try to get into some of the local houses for chang (Tibetan barley beer), salt butter tea and perhaps a few carpets to buy!

Day 18 - Trek to Dharamsala/Larkya Phedi 4460m

We leave on the trade route to Tibet and climb through the ruins of Larkya bazaar, one of the trade markets that flourished years back. After two hours of climbing past glaciers, with increasingly awe-inspiring panoramas, we come to the campsite at Dharamsala, where we have lunch and gaze out at the views. You'll really feel the altitude and the cold here, so enjoy a more leisurely afternoon and keep warm. We'll have an early dinner in preparation for our pass crossing tomorrow ...

Day 19 - Cross Larkya La (4930m) to Bimtang 3590m

After a short climb above the campsite, we reach the ablation valley on the North side of the Larkya Glaciers where we have views of Cho Danda and then of Larkya Peak. We continue across the moraines of the glacier, making a gradual ascent which becomes steeper only in the last section to the pass, which should take us about three hours to crest. From the pass, there are outstanding views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kangguru and the huge Annapurna II. If there is fresh snow, we may see Snow Leopard prints from the evening before; it's also blue sheep (Bharal) and Tibetan Snow Cock territory.

The views from the top of the pass are truly unbelievable. After hanging our Tibetan prayer flags, and yelling 'Ki ki so so lha gyalo' (may the Gods be victorious), get ready for a steep, ankle straining drop to a trail following the glacial moraine, very slippery if covered in snow so have your 'Yak tracks' ready if you've brought them, and definitely use trekking poles. It is a longer day then usual to our campsite at Bimtang, but to walk into these low pastures with the evening mist coming in and Manaslu; it's an experience not to be missed. A boulder-strewn descent brings us, finally, to Bimtang, where the three sisters of the 'Three Sisters Hotel' are on hand with Himalayan chilled beer. Does life get any better?

Day 20 - Trek to Tilje 2300m

The campsite at Bimtang is frigid in the morning, so get to the dining tent quickly for a cup of fresh coffee! Porters pour hot water over tent pegs to get them out. Pee bottles freeze. No option if you want to get warm, move down valley into the sun, through forested hillsides to Tilje, at the end of our lost world. Here the inhabitants are a mix of Manangis (of Tibetan descent) and Chettris (Hindus), so eat a mix of dal bhaat, buckwheat dhiro, tsampa and Tibetan tea. The gorge ahead marks the land of apple pie, cold beers and hot showers - the Annapurna Circuit. Our last day of camping!

Day 21 - Trek to Dharapani 1860m

This morning we've got an easy trek following the Dudh Khola through bamboo forests down to Dharapani, an atmospheric Tibetan village with prayer flags fluttering in the wind, stopping en route at the gompa in Thongje on the old Annapurna trail. It's our last night with the Manaslu group, so we'll get together for a few beers and a celebration with the porters that are heading down with the Manaslu group tomorrow.

*** From here, the full High Manaslu & Annapurnas trek continues over the Thorung La with Kim and Lhakpa, and the Manaslu group heads back to Kathmandu with Kiran ***

Day 22 - Trek to Jagat 1300m

Trekking south on the main Annapurna Circuit, we soon arrive at a long suspension bridge over which we cross the Marshyangdi River to reach the small village of Karte, and re-cross it soon afterwards. We continue along a high, winding stunning cliff-side trail past several small teahouses at Khorte, and then switch backing down the steep trail before crossing the Marshyangdi river yet again before the plains and waterfall at scenic Taj, the last village of the Lower Manang region. Tal means lake, and the area here was formed when the valley was blocked by a landslide and a dam formed behind. The lake has long gone and now the village of Tal sits on the river flats. Once through the charming village, we have a quick ascent to the entrance 'kane' of Tal, and after cresting the small hump, we descend steeply past the small teahouses at Sattale, loosing even more altitude as we continue down to the river and cross another suspension bridge to Chamje. Chamje is an atmospheric, 'wild west' village of traditional-style teahouses, often packed with saddled local horses. One more steep descent through the woods, looking across the river to large waterfalls, leads us to the lovely cobbled village of Jagat, situated on a shelf which juts into the precipitous Marshyangdi valley, where we get settled into our lodge, jump in the shower, grab a cold beer and get ready for dinner.

Day 23 - Trek to Ngadi 930m

Back to the lush, semi-tropical middle hills of Nepal! Descending steeply, we arrive at the small, somewhat wild-looking village of Syange, where we cross the Marshyangdi river once again, continue through the small, dusty Tibetan settlement at Ghermu, and continue into rice paddy and water buffalo realm as we trek to Bahundanda. Bahundanda literally means 'hill of the Brahmins', and it is the most northerly Brahmin settlement in the Marshyangdi Valley, situated high up on a ridge. Heading down again, we trek through more lovely terraces to Ngadi, at 930 meters, a village of picturesque shops, cobbled streets and teahouses where we spend the night at a lovely lodge at the start of the village, and are treated to a soft Annapurna sunset over well-deserved cold beers.

Day 24 - Trek to Besi Sahar 760m, drive to Kathmandu

The last day of the trek, and a hot, three hour walk through gentle, muted hills and colorful villages to Bhulbhule and Khudi, where we will meet our transport back to Kathmandu. If the road isn't passable, we continue to Besi Sahar to start the five-hour drive back to Kathmandu. It is a different world back in the Nepali hills, and the gentle light sends us on our way back to the bustle of Nepal's capital.

Finally, a shower! We book into our rooms at the Kathmandu Guest House, and wash off the grime of weeks of trekking.

Day 25 - Depart

Sadly, we send you to the airport for your flight home ...

* If you wish to stay longer, we can offer plenty of suggestions: mountain biking in the Kathmandu valley, an Everest sightseeing flight, a trip out to Bhaktapur or Patan, the Kathmandu valley's other historic cities, or a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for a bit of luxury and some expansive sunset and sunrise mountain panoramas. Kim can help to arrange any of these excursions for you.

Namaste and see you during your next trip to the Himalayas!

Nepal essentials

Manaslu extras

High Manaslu Trek

Outline Itinerary

Day 1 - Sunday, 13 April 2008 - Arrive Kathmandu

2 - Kathmandu

3 - Drive Gorkha, trek Gorkha Camp

4 - Trek Arkole

5 - Trek Kalibote

6 - Trek Barpak

7 - Trek Laprak

8 - Trek Korlebesi

9 - Trek Jagat

10 - Trek Philim

11 - Trek Deng

12 - Trek Ghap

13 - Trek Lho

14 - Trek Sama Gaon

15 - Sama Gaon

16 - Trek Samdo

17 - Samdo

18 - Trek Dharamsala High Camp

19 - Trek Bimtang

20 - Trek Tilje

21 - Trek Dharapani

22 - Trek Jagat

23 - Trek Ngadi

24 - Trek Besi Sahar, drive Kathmandu

Day 25 - Wednesday, 7 May - Depart

Highlights

2008 Dates

Cost $2680

Leader

Arrival Hotel

Our Service Includes

Our Service Excludes

Tips & Extra Cash