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Nomads of the Changtang

The Changtang is the name given to the captivating high altitude plateaus of Western Tibet, an extensive area which sits at an average elevation of 4500 to 5000 meters and is inhabited by such rare species as the 'chiru' (Tibetan antelope), 'kyang' (wild Tibetan ass) and blue sheep. This remote and fabled region is peopled by Changpas, the traditional traders of the Changtang, who have wandered these high pastures in true 'caravan' style with their 'gurs' (nomad tents) and flocks of pashm goats and sheep for centuries. This traditionally Tibetan region lies in part in the Indian Himalaya, although the culture remains purely Tibetan.

This trek is a unique experience; a trek back in time during which we witness a way of life that has not changed for centuries. It is a true journey in the classic sense, traversing remote passes to visit remote people. Lamas, gompas, nomads, caravans of yaks and sheep transporting salt and pashmina wool via the ancient trade routes ... it's all there! Essentially we are trekking into the ancient Tibetan Kingdom of Guge, home of the Bon religion which predates Buddhism by hundreds of years, and emerging into the present day Indian Himalaya.

The Project Himalaya  team has been trekking this remarkable area since it opened in the late 1990s with our Tibetan sirdar  Lobsang, himself from a nomadic Changpa family in Hanle. This is our sixth year trekking in this unique region of high mountains, lakes and plateaus, and we have created a 'best-of' trek incorporating all our years of experience of tracking the dying culture of Tibetan 'caravan' migration between Tibet and the Indian Himalaya.

Don't miss it!

Preparation and trekking with us

There is lots of India trek and preparation information on the left sidebar, please read through the different sections, especially the gear section. You must have 'travel medical insurance', and we recommend basic travel insurance as well. Take a look at About us and at the photo galleries to see why we rave about Ladakh and Zanskar.

Fitness and trekking experience

We are asked many questions about fitness levels for the treks and our guidelines are basically that you should be healthy, active, adventurous and spend time in the outdoors. Past trekking experience isn't necessary, although it will help you understand what a 'trek' involves. The most important factor for enjoying the trek is a positive attitude, and perhaps a sense of humor.

Customizing your trek

Every year we have trekkers join us for different sections of our treks, especially those with less vacation time. We have the logistical skills and the jeep drivers to customize a trek for you, so get in touch!

Your guides and crew

Joel and Kim have been creating and leading their unique 'Kamzang' style treks together in India (and Nepal) since the turn of the century, and hope to be living the drokpa (nomadic) life in the Himalaya for many more years. Camping doesn't get much better than with Project Himalaya in India, aided by our all-star Tibetan team, Lobsang, Temba, Phuntsok and Sherap.

Arrival in India

Note that most flights into Delhi arrive late at night or very early in the morning. Plan your arrival time and date carefully, and do ask if you are not sure about meeting points. Please email us your flight arrival details as soon as possible, and have our contact details and the contact details of The Metropolis Hotel and Druk Expeditions recorded (see below).

Detailed itinerary

Note that the trekking itinerary and campsites may vary slightly depending on trail and weather conditions and the various trekkers' acclimatization rate.

Early Arrival

Many people arrive in Delhi a day earlier to explore the city or recover after a long flight. We can make hotel and airport pick-up arrangement for you IF we know your flight details, and you will only need to pay your extra night(s) at The Metropolis Hotel. If Joel and/or Kim are in Delhi, they will meet you at The Metropolis Hotel in Paharganj.

Day 1 - Arrive Delhi

Kim, Joel and/or a representative from Druk Expeditions or The Metropolis  Hotel will be at the airport to meet you and take you to The Metropolis Hotel in Paharganj, near Connaught Place, in central New Delhi.

2 - Fly to Leh 3500m

Did you get any sleep? We are early to board the spectacular flight to Leh, crossing the main Himalayan Barrier to the capital of Ladakh, Tashi Namgyal's 15th century Himalayan capital at 3500m. The clear high air will catch at the throat when we arrive, and now we start the serious business of acclimatization; and eating, as after we settle into our hotel we have a long leisurely breakfast  It will take your body a few days to adjust to this high altitude. It is important to drink plenty of (non-alcoholic) liquids, and do not attempt to rush around. Even walking up the stairs of the guest house will make you breathless at first! We will discuss this in detail. Note that we have planned plenty of acclimatization time into our itinerary.

3 - Leh 3500m

We have two full days to explore the bazaars and alleyways of historic Leh, and the striking Indus valley which surrounds it, visiting some of the most ancient forts and gompas of the Tibetan Buddhist world.

4 - Leh 3500m

Another day for relaxing and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere of this little bit of old Tibet. Kim and Joel are virtually honorary residents, and they will be your guide to shopping, gompas, and more. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town; the fort and palace, colorful gompas, the mosque, a museum, back alleys with steaming Muslim bread and tiny antique shops tucked away, colorful fruit and vegetable bazaars, polo fields ...

5 - Drive to Chilling. Trek to Kiu 3300m

We are away before 8 in the morning as we have a multi-transport day in front of us. First, our jeeps climb away from Leh, past the monasteries of Phyang and Spitok; looking back we can see the Ladakh and Karakoram ranges that form the barrier between the Indian Subcontinent and China, or Tartary as the early explorers called it. We drop again to a hilltop high above the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus, brown merging with blue, and turn up the link road that will one day run to Zanskar, now only as far as Chilling, or at least, the teahouses on the road below it. Pack your dust scarf ... it gets in everywhere!  Next, we travel by cable car, as we help load gear into the pulley car maintained by locals. Then, finally, as our gear transfers to horses, we walk, climbing steadily away from the Zanskar to the (small, believe it or not) 3400m Kuki La. Then our trail leads us for three hours through the village of Kaya, to Kiu, our camp for the first day; and although a few short miles, if the sun shines, you will really feel this first day at elevation! But our tents are up and waiting, and we can relax over what Eric Shipton, the famous mountain explorer, called 'Tea, heavenly tea!' Over dinner Joel and Kim will go over camp routines, and the first day's trek.

6 - Trek to Sara 3550m

Again, we cover very little distance as the crow flies, but at this height, and especially if the sun shines, we feel it. We follow trails through willow groves and smallholdings to the tiny clearing among riverside trees that is Sara, a grazing area for Markha people. As we walk today, take time to look up at the gorge walls high above us, where you will spot the remains of small 'dzongs' (forts). This whole valley is the approach to the lush pastures of the high altitude grazing of Nimaling, coveted by Balti invaders centuries past.

7 - Trek to Markha 3700m

By now we are on our camp routine ... pack up early and linger over coffee, or a brief breakfast and then pack, whatever, we are away at 8 am before the sun gets too high. By noon the horses pass, and by 3 in the afternoon we are in camp. Today we pass the remains of old hermitage caves high on the opposite cliffs; Joel nearly killed himself getting up there in 2004, inside are the remains of tiny caves where lamas once sat in meditation, platforms carved in rock. Look also at the chortens that lines of trekkers sweat past, heads down - inside are piles of tiny 'tsatsas', the remains of ashes of the departed formed into tiny pyramids. Soon as the valley widens we spot the old fort on the hill above Markha village, and then, on the other side of the hill that marks the village, is our camp on the banks of the Markha river. After tea we ascend to explore the local gompa, the inside dark and chang smelling; and check out the ornate carved silver barley beer holders in front of the village lamas chair. Look, and look again, we always say to our groups. Because the more you look the more you will see.

8 - Trek to Hankar 4000m

Another day of ambling along the trails used by countless shepherds and traders over the centuries, crossing calf deep rivers, two hours out of Markha we climb to the old hilltop monastery of Umlung, and tea with our friends, the monks. At one point the trail climbs high away from the river; that is the old trail, but worth climbing to look at the spires that line the valley that lead to the Ruberang La, and the Jumlam route to Zanskar. The snow mountain ahead is 6400m Kang Yatze, which we are going to see much more of soon. And then we see the spire at valleys end that marks the strategic junction with the routes to Zanskar and Nimaling, and there is Hankar, marked by a crumbling fort above, centuries old. The legend is that the Dogra army that conquered Ladakh in the early 19th century was led this way to their prize, the Indus valley and Leh, by a renegade Zanskari.

9 - Hankar

We are going a lot higher in the coming weeks, so today's rest is designed to help us acclimatize. After a leisurely breakfast, we climb to the old fort above the Samdo, river junction. Careful climbing gets you to the top, with amazing views - and an incredible feeling of antiquity. Then we will have tea with some of our village friends, and Joel and Kim will show you around a classic Ladakhi house.

10 - Trek to Nimaling 4700m

By now we should all be sleeping and eating well - and we are ready for a real days trekking! So we follow the river to our climb, gently first to pastures and a campsite at Taunts, then more steeply until we begin to see the distant Zanskar range. We lunch near a small lake at 4500m, then just 200m to go. On our right, Kang Yatze, and our left, the Stok range and the distant Gongmaru La pass at 5100m. Then, still distant, we see our camp by the Nimaling Chu. Still very cold at this time of the year, Nimaling (plain of gold) is home to Nomad families who are paid to look after the livestock of the Markha valley Ladakhis during the summer months. And it is still, as one writer had it, one of the loveliest high altitude plains in Asia.

11- Trek over the Poze La to High Camp 4600m

Now on our special route, we head away from the main Markha valley route and climb slowly to the 5000m Poze La, with very distinctive views of Kang Yazes' summit ridge and the Singge La in Zanskar. The top of this pass is hard to find, as it seems to be the size of several football pitches! We descend to the first stream, and camp to enjoy this wild spot.

12 - Trek over 'No-Name La' to Lahtoo and Rumtse Camp 4200m

We carry on down this valley, and after an hour we can see the trail ahead, seemingly impossible, but yes, that is it, almost straight up, then around another hilltop, then another, then another - deja vu! Before it relents, but before we descend, stop and take it all in. It really feels like we are on the roof of the world. But down, and a couple of rivers to wade before we hit the houses of Lhatoo, cross the main Leh Manali 'highway' and camp near Rumtse.

13 - Trek to Kyamar Camp 4400m

Now we are really off the map, as we follow nomad trails towards the first of many passes on the route, the Kumur La. We camp just pass the nomad area at Kyamar, and take time to wander into the early evening, perhaps scanning the skyline for the Ibex, Tibetan gazelle and Argyall that roam here.

14- Three Pass Day to Shibuk 4700m

Count em' - there are three passes but more a high altitude traverse as we stay more or less at 5000m all day! The scenery is classic Tibetan, real 'great game' territory, for those history students. Those peaks off in the distance are at lake Temporary, still a few days off. So, we hope, the Kumur, Mandalchan, and Shibuk Las. And camp.

15 - Trek to Lake Tsokar 4400m

The moment you cross the last hill and see the glittering salt deposits at this lake is one to savor. Up till very recently, they farmed the salt from these lakes and traded it with Spiti people for grain. In 1999, Joel and Lobsang met the traders en route. Wild kyang (Tibetan wild ass) may be sweeping across the plains, nomads may be chasing their yaks, whatever, a wonderful panorama. Wherever we camp, Tsokar is cold as the sun goes and the wind cranks up. This camp is really, really, central Asia.

16, 17, 18 & 19 - Trek to Tsmoriri 4520m

We have a choice of routes to Tsmoriri, all high, all remote; we hope to see nomads on the move, and we will see a lot of wildlife! On the fourth day, whatever our route, we are rewarded by views of Lake Tsmoriri from the 5440m Yalung Nyau la. We camp, after probably the highest four day's trekking on the planet (we never drop below 5000m!) at Korzok, the winter settlement of the Tibetan nomads who wander the plateau.

20 - Trek to Nomad camp 4560m

We climb away from the camp on a PH 'short cut' which is, of course, much longer! It is possible to climb this ridge to 6000m if you feel in a frisky mood, but better to drop to the link road to Mahe at the bottom, and then cut across the bird sanctuary at the top of the lake; the mud flats and small lakes here are the home to Brahminy ducks and Bar Headed geese. You will l need your sandals, even though the mud at the bottom of the pools is quite refreshing! The trail then takes us across a headland with incredible views of the Parilungbi range, towards Spiti, and the glittering lake. We camp near a nomad settlement, where our staff have relatives; and in the past we have dined to the sound of Tsarap and Phunsok's joyous reunion with their sister.   

21 - Trek to Mid Camp 4600m

The lake is our companion for a few days now, and our trekkers find it impossible to draw their eyes away from it; it seems to create its own weather, and we see it in all moods; at times almost Mediterranean, looking down on what could be Greek coves; at times when the wind roars and the clouds blow in from Tibet, often Joel has flashbacks to his upbringing in a British seaside town. We have circled it, swam in it (briefly!) climbed 6000m peaks around it, lounged on its beaches, and trekked with nomads along its shores, and battled snowstorms to get there in winter. Welcome to lake Tsmoriri, the jewel in Project-Himalayas crown. Our route takes us along sandy beaches, and high on a bluff above the lake, before dropping to Matt and Helen's 'bathing beach' in 2003, and climbing up a delightful side meadow to a small spring. The views, in a region where the small opening in your tent gives you a million dollar one, are incredible.

22-  Trek to Dungri 4460m

A real Himalayan trekking day, our route takes us along kyang (wild ass) haunted flats, past nomad camps and along sandy beaches. It is a good eight hours of walking today, with no water until the camp, so top up those bottles. This is truly a day to really get into. Rest, look at the views, snack. The horses will pull past in early afternoon, as usual, the guys crying greetings as they always do, shifting loads with one hand, bidi in the other. Our camp at Dungri is below a settlement, usually deserted in summer. This is the site of Kim and Joel's 2002 'party' when one Nalgene of the local chang defeated them both. Behind us in 2003 we saw what looked like a large cat on the skyline, and the spring that runs through the camp is ideal washing. Across the lake dust devils appear, and blow themselves out, and curious kyang, territorial always, come and check out our camp. Sudden flurries of dust at your tent door are pika going about their endless excavations. Enjoy!

23- Trek to Lhatoo Gongma 4610m

We cross the top end of the lake through Kyangdom, 'kingdom of the asses' and cut across the high bluff that juts at lakes end, where an exposed trails takes us to one last viewpoint of the lake, before descending steeply into what we call the valley of the Phirse Phu. A curving valley takes us to our first camp, we normally share with nomads at Lhatoo Gongma. We dubbed this 'sunshine camp' in 2002, as the sun stays late here.

24 -Trek to Phuang 4750m

There is a pass today, but not much of a struggle for us! The Manachan La is 4750m, and after that it is an easy five hours to our camp in a sheltered side valley. Looking back, you can see again the mountains on the Spiti border.

25 - Trek to Zozogong  4890m

Ask Lobsang how this camp got its name - every year it seems different! The walk today is uphill, but hardly noticeable as it is so gentle, and the views of blueish white peaks far away compensate. The side 'nala', or valley, two hours into the day, is home to a very aggressive group of kyang who we consider old friends. Normally we spot the male of the herd checking us out as we approach, and then they start to warn us off their territory, making close passes at up to 50 kilometers per hour - and if they vanish, keep an eye out, in 2004 they scared the **** out of us by suddenly thundering in from nowhere, just yards away! Our camp has amazing sunsets, and our trekkers scan the skyline for those elusive Tibetan gazelle, then spend the evening arguing about what we saw, or imagined!

26 - Trek to Yoghurt camp 4600m

Walk slowly, the trek is coming to an end. We climb away from the valley to the Thelakung La,  then descend to a series of gorges that had Joel hopelessly lost when he first scouted this route in 1998. (Lobsang found him). Luckily we know it well now, so we descend easily to the valley that leads to our journeys end. We need our sandals as we have rivers to wade, and we have time to admire the crumbling valley walls that would not look out of place in an Egyptian gorge. Then Yoghurt camp, with its clear stream .... the name? Ask Kim.

27 - Trek to Pang. Drive Leh

Less then two hours walking, and we arrive at where 'Uncle' Wang Chok is waiting for us with his jeep team, to whisk us back to Leh, tandoori, fresh lemon soda, and hot showers. When we left the trekking season had not started; now it is in full swing, and Leh is a carnival of brightly dressed backpackers and friendly corner cafes.

28 - Leh

Sightseeing, shopping, showering, relaxing.

29 - Fly to Delhi

Up early and onto our reliable Jet Air flight to Delhi, arriving at India's capital for morning rush hour. And back to what some consider the 'real' world. International flights should be confirmed well in advance....

Day 30 - Depart

We take you to the airport for your flight home (the Metropolis staff will arrange a taxi to the airport). Farewell to India. For now ...

Come have a riot with us - what now (Contacting us)?

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