The Lost Worlds of the Jumlam

This is no place for men - surely the Gods live here!'

'Kim', Rudyard Kipling 

The Jumlam or 'middle way' is the name of the wild, remote route through a network of narrow canyons, wide, stony riverbeds and deep ravines taken by Tibetan traders to return home from Zanskar if early snow closes the high passes. The route is only passable in the autumn, when the rivers are low enough to allow travelers and their 'caravans' to negotiate the narrow gorges in safety.

Remote valleys, high passes, ancient ochre-hued monasteries and Zanskari villages in harvest time. This trek is a true taste of the ancient Kingdom  of Zanskar with a just a bit of the refreshing bite of early winter in the air. Blue skies and few tourist make this wonderful time of the year to trek in the Indian Himalaya...

The itinerary

Note that the trekking itinerary and campsites may vary slightly depending on trail and weather conditions and trekkers' acclimatization rates.

Day 1 - Sunday 10 September 2006 - arrive Delhi

Joel or one of our drivers will be at the airport to meet you; look for the sign with your name on. A short drive takes us to our hotel in Karol Bagh, a quiet Delhi suburb. Over dinner we will discuss your gear; and our adventure!

See the trip outline for all contact details.

2 - Fly Leh 3500m

Did you get any sleep? We are up early to board the spectacular flight to Leh, crossing the main Himalayan Barrier to the capital of Ladakh, Tashi Namgyal's 15th century Himalayan capital at 3500m. The clear high air will catch at the throat when we arrive, and now we start the serious business of acclimatization; and eating, as after we settle into our hotel we have a long leisurely breakfast. It will take your body a few days to adjust to this high altitude. It is important to drink plenty of (non-alcoholic) liquids, and do not attempt to rush around. Even walking up the stairs of the guest house will make you breathless at first! We will discuss this in detail. Note that we have planned plenty of acclimatization time into our itinerary.

3 &4 - Leh 3500m

We have two days for relaxing and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere of this little bit of old Tibet. Kim and Joel are virtually honorary residents, and they will be your guide to shopping, gompas, and more. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town; the fort and palace, colorful gompas, the mosque, a museum, back alleys with steaming Muslim bread and tiny antique shops tucked away, colorful bazaars and even polo fields...

5 - Drive to Chilling then trek to Skiu 3300m

We are away before 8am as we have a multi-transport day in front of us. First, our jeeps climb away from Leh, past the monasteries of Phyang and Spitok; looking back we can see the Ladakh and Karakoram ranges that form the barrier between the Indian Subcontinent and China, or Tartary as the early explorers called it.

We drop again to a hilltop high above the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus, brown merging with blue, and turn up the link road that will one day run to Zanskar, now only as far as Chilling, or at least, the teahouses on the road below it. Pack your dust scarf, it gets in everywhere!

Next, we travel by cable car, as we help load gear into the pulley car maintained by locals. Then, finally, as our gear transfers to horses, we walk, climbing steadily away from the Zanskar to the (small, believe it or not) 3400m Kuki La. Then our trail leads us for three hours through the village of Kaya, to Kiu, our camp for the first day; and although a few short miles, if the sun shines, you will really feel this first day at elevation. At camp our tents are up and waiting, and we can relax over what Eric Shipton, the famous mountain explorer, called 'Tea, heavenly tea!' Over dinner Joel and Kim will introduce you to the camp routine.

6 - Trek to Sara 3550m

Again, we cover very little distance as the crow flies, but at this height, and especially if the sun shines, we feel it. We follow trails through willow groves and smallholdings to the tiny clearing among riverside trees that is Sara, a grazing area for Markha people. As we walk today, take time to look up at the gorge walls high above us, where you will spot the remains of small 'dzongs' (forts). This whole valley is the approach to the lush pastures of the high altitude grazing of Nimaling, coveted by Balti invaders centuries past.

7 - Trek to Markha 3700m

By now we are on our camp routine, pack up early and linger over coffee, or a brief breakfast and then pack, whatever, we are away at 8am before the sun gets too high. By noon the horses pass, and by 3 in the afternoon we are in camp. Today we pass the remains of old hermitage caves high on the opposite cliffs. Inside are the remains of tiny caves where lamas once sat in meditation, platforms carved in rock. Look also at the chortens that lines of trekkers sweat past - inside are piles of tiny 'tsatsas', the remains of ashes of the departed formed into tiny pyramids. As soon as the valley widens we spot the old fort on the hill above Markha village, and then, on the other side of the hill is our camp on the banks of the Markha river. After tea we ascend to explore the local gompa, the inside dark and chang smelling; and check out the ornate carved silver barley beer holders in front of the village lamas chair. Look, and look again, the more you look the more you will see.

8 - Trek to Hankar 3700m

Again, a mellow walk, gaining elevation slowly with the marvelous high walls of the Markha valley above us. Bring some sandals as there are some easy stream crossings today. We lunch by golden barley fields, and by four o'clock we will be camping under the spectacular ruins of the hilltop 'dzong', or Tibetan fortified gompa and administrative center, of the Singge Namgyal, Ladakh's celebrated King.

9 - Hankar - Rest Day

We have our first rest day here to explore this lovely, traditional Ladakhi village. The villagers and their children are old friends, and the 17th century fort that dominates the area is worth a scramble up for incredible views. The valley in back of Hankar also makes a beautiful day trip, and there is a possibility of blue sheep sightings. Or just relax in the sun and enjoy the peace of the campsite and the settings.

10 - Trek to Manechan 4640m

Today starts with a few rivers to ford, low at this time, and then climbs gently over the course of the day to the camp we are aiming for. There are many this side of the pass, and which we aim for depends on how well we are acclimatizing. All the camp sites have bathing spots nearby, and we almost always spot ibex on the high ridges around sunset. 

11 - Trek to Ruberang 4350m

We have to move early today as we climb one of our old friends, the Zalung Karpo La ('La' is Tibetan/Ladakhi for pass) but the descent into the Jumlam (rather then the more popular side, the Karnak) can be tricky, and campsites with water on the other side are hard to find in the autumn. We should be in camp by late afternoon.

12 - Trek to Karnak Sumdo 4170m

A river day: sparkling water, autumn colours on the riverbanks and high canyon walls in which you can discern every shape of imaginary castle, from gothic to fairytale.  A truly incredible spot ... Our camp on a river junction is perfect,  and if we arrive with the sun, a swim is well in order!

13 - Trek to Wangchuk Sumdo 4040m

Sadly, the camp does not get early sun, and the first crossing of the day is in the shade; but an hour or so down valley we greet the sun and the many river crossings today are sun warmed. The trail both crosses rivers and side streams and navigates semi - impossible trails to our lunch spot at Tilat Sumdo, site (as Kim and Lobsang will tell you) of Joel's 2004 'this way' joke. After lunch, more wading, and some neck creaking scenery as we point out some incredible arches in the mountainsides. Camp is on a small plateau at yet another river junction among  a grove of trees, with snow peaks in view up valley.

14 - Trek to Chubchak 4450m

Another classic Jumlam day, walk in or carry your sandals as we negotiate beautiful gorges and seemingly impossible trails, crossing from side to side of the main stream, and some incredible boulder choked gorges. Our camp is delightful - a wide pasture with crags soaring up all around; we usually spot very un timid Ibex on the hills above in the early evening.

15 - Trek to Zangla Sumdo 3800m

"Jumlam wild" was my diary entry for 2005. This day has it all; a trail so exposed the utmost care is vital. Snow bridges that we may have to walk under or over; a pass that has unrivalled views, a white chorten on top, with prayer flags cracking in the wind; and a steep descent to a wooded riverside camp.

16 - Trek to Zangla 3700m

There is really a limit to how many superlatives we can find ... an incredible stupa built high into the rock face which we will have time to investigate and an equally unbelievable fort which we total overlooked on our first journey here in 2002 are some of the highlights. What stood out in 2004 and 2005, though, was the sheer beauty of the colours in this last section of gorge. Then that great moment when we see what was the kingdom of Zangla spread out on the plateau in front of us, and finally camp in Zangla, one of our favorite spots in Zanskar. We visit the 15th century fort high above the village en route to camp. Alexander Csoma de Koros, the first westerner to make an extensive study of Tibetan, spent a cold 19th century winter here, living on salt tea and tsampa; his rooms have become a shrine for visiting Hungarians.

17- Trek to Tongde 3450m

Flat, high, wide and hot, today we walk across half of a kingdom. But only 15 kilometers! We see the hilltop monastery that gives the village its name a good two hours b before we arrive in camp. And if you have the energy, climb up for tea with the monks

18 - Drive to Camp at Rangdum

Relax and enjoy the drive to our camp near the beautiful Rangdum Gompa on our three day drive back to Leh. On the way, we make a brief stop at Sani monastery. This drive is known for it's incredible beauty. En route we stop for lunch, and on arrival visit Rangdum Gompa. Then we take over the traditional Ladakhi home of some friends of ours for the evening.

19 - Drive to Kargil

A pre dawn start for our drive, as we watch the lovely scenery of the Suru valley roll past, and by late afternoon we are at our hotel (with hot showers!) at the old bazaar town of Kargil.

20 - Drive to Leh

This last stretch, along the willow and poplar and monastery lined Indus to Leh. We have breakfast at Mulbekh, after the destruction of Bamian, the oldest Standing Buddha in Asia. And in Leh for cold beer and tandoori by early evening.

21 - Last day in Leh

A last opportunity to shop and to enjoy this little piece of old Asia. Or just relax at the guest house.

 Monday 3 October, 22 - Fly Delhi and depart

We are up early for our Jet Air (nothing but the best!) flight; goodbye to the stunning 'Kingdom in the Sky'. Your leader may fly to Delhi but sometimes stays in Leh, and in that case you will be met at Delhi airport by our Delhi staff and taken to the hotel.  You could fly out of Delhi later in this day; most flights are at night and you should be back in Delhi by lunchtime. If you have successive international flights that are not all part of the same ticket or following domestic flights we suggest planning more cautiously and departing tomorrow. Your hotel room is included in the cost of the trip for all, whether you leave the same day or stay the night.

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