2012 Chadar Expedition

'Something hidden. Go and find it. Go and look behind the ranges.'
Rudyard Kipling

There are few if any adventure treks in the Himalaya to match the Chadar winter expedition for sheer, awe inspiring beauty, and none to match it in terms of day to day challenge and excitement.

The frozen Zanskar river, part of the Indus watershed, is used by the people of Zanskar to go back and forth to the outside world when the passes are locked into frozen winter silence. Originally they carried butter, one of many commodities these villagers traded with the outside world. It had to be traded in winter, as it was the only time it could travel from the cool summer cellars of their houses to Leh without spoiling. Today, they go back and forth still trading, but also taking children to school, or making visits to the sacred sites around Leh.

This is not only a full scale winter trekking expedition, but a trek into the past, where we, in our high technology gear, will trek side by side with smiling locals wearing woolen Gonchas and sounding the ice with their stout poplar staffs to drive away the demons that lurk there.

Outline Itinerary

Trekkers say

I have done a lot of expeditions throughout the world, and this is hands down the best trekking food I've ever had.

Arabella Slinger, 2011 Chadar Expedition

The route

We trek along the frozen and semi-frozen river surface, this changes from hour to hour. It climbs high at times above broken ice, and at times you have no choice, you have to get wet feet. But we avoid this if possible! At times it seems impossible and you will not believe what the human body can do, or how thin a ledge of ice will support you. You will watch the porters do the impossible. And then you follow them. This trek takes the main Chadar route, then, once in Zanskar, has a number of extra days built in to visit either remoter valleys or sacred sites and palaces of the once Kingdom of Zangla.

Gear and the cold

It does get very cold on the Chadar, but does not seem to be cold. Why? Because it is hard work, with very few moments to relax; you really do have to keep moving. Also, the complete absence of any wind to chill you, and the excellent gear you are wearing keeps you well insulated. Day temperatures average minus 8-15ºC and at night it drops to around minus 15-20ºC, although can be colder. The only time you really feel it is packing up in the morning.

Discussing gear is definitely part of the preparation, and your gear needs to be good. See our special Chadar gear discussion on the side bar.

Your crew

Tenpa Tsering, from a Tibetan Family but living in India, speaks every Tibetan dialect under the sun, and has trekked and adventured the length of the Himalaya. He is the mainstay of the India trekking operations, and has trekked with us since 1999. He is an excellent cook with calm and organized leadership skills. He joins us again this year for his second Chadar.

Stanzin is a Zanskari from Zangla village, and has done more than 30 Chadar treks since he first walked the ice as a ten year old, and has both worked as a porter (as he was with us in 2002) and a guide many times on this route. He is a tireless, hard worker with an intelligent appreciation of the ice and a vast store of local knowledge. As a local, he is also the man to give us a real assessment of conditions, not one based on hearsay.

Tashi Chengdu, a Zanskari from Pidmo village, has done the Chadar many times as well, using the ice to bring his children to school and also to guide trekkers. He is always smiling, an excellent helper in camp and on the river. A tireless guide, kitchen cook, and helper; he is vital to the success of our trip. His son, Lobsang, and nephew, Tashi, will also join us as porters and tent helpers on the trek.

We will also have a team of up to 18 porters, who we kit out in good, warm gear. They will be constant companions on the ice, and their say so on the route choices is a vital part of our expedition.

Detailed itinerary

Note that the trekking itinerary and campsites may vary slightly depending on trail and weather conditions.

Leh start

We begin all our Ladakh treks in Leh now as if you have your whole itinerary on the same ticket then if the Leh to Delhi flight is delayed then it is the airline's responsibility to rearrange your flights. If we provide your domestic air ticket and the Leh to Delhi flight is delayed then you could potentially lose your international flight back.

Day 0 - Arrive Delhi

You should arrive in Delhi on 16 January OR very early morning (before 3am) on the 17th, with at least 4 hours between arrival in Delhi and departure to Leh.

If you arrive quite a bit earlier we are happy connect you with the right people to arrange airport transfers and hotel in Delhi, although these are not included. Do note that winter flights in and out of Delhi are commonly delayed by fog so having extra time between flights is advised - and some patience!

Day 1 - Arrive Leh 3500m

 The cold air will take your breath away, and you will definitely feel the altitude. We meet you at the airport and head to a comfortable hotel near the main bazaar, which has heated rooms. After a late breakfast, we take a slow stroll around Leh, with its old palace dominating the old bazaar.

Day 2 - Leh 3500m

This is our second day to explore the alleyways of historic Leh, and the striking Indus valley with its snowy backdrop that surrounds it, visiting some of the ancient forts and gompas of the Tibetan Buddhist world. It is a piece of central Asian history, the fort and palace, colorful gompas, the mosque, back alleys with steaming Muslim bread and tiny antique shops tucked away, colorful fruit and vegetable bazaars, polo fields ... and of course, the regular 11 am ice hockey match!

Day 3 - Drive to Chilling and trek to Tilad Do camp 3100m

Mornings in Leh in any season are special, with the harsh high Himalayan light softened by the dust in the air. In winter, the call to prayer from the mosque wakes you gently. Breakfast in the Shaynam is a final touch of civilization. By eight we will be on the move, driving through the suburbs of Leh, then along the Indus valley. The road climbs slowly past Spitok Monastery, and bus loads of Ladakhi kids heading for where the Indus has been diverted into shallow pools for skating. We reach about 3700m where we normally stop to stretch our legs and take in the view behind. Leh nestles at the foot of the Ladakh range, its location dictated by the high route to China behind. From here you can really see how geography dictates history.

We drive on, descending to the Indus again to its confluence with the Zanskar. A dirt road from here takes us to Chilling, as far as the jeep can go. Here we have a simple lunch, then it is on the ice. It takes an hour or so to get into a comfortable rhythm, and we have found that using crampons tends to be more of a hindrance, as they are not suitable for all ice conditions. As the gear list says, good trekking poles are essential. Again, as on the gear list, you must have boots with good, new soles that 'stick'. Luckily there are rarely any ice puzzles on this first day.. The camp is on a sandy plateau to one side of the Zanskar, where on this first day our tent will have been erected for us. We will introduce you to camp routines and our warm and cozy dining tent, followed by dinner, soup and a good, varied vegetarian meal. Evenings in the dining tent, which is big enough to stretch your legs but small enough to be easily warmed, are very comfortable. We also all sleep in the dining tent, for ease of packing and setting up.

Day 4 - Trek to Gyalpo camp 3170m

Waking, a shock? We hope not too much! The morning cold is eased by the heater firing up in our communal tent, and soon hot washing water. Breakfast call is 7.30 - breakfast is as much hot coffee or tea as you can drink, eggs to order (fresh while they last, then powdered) Tenpa's fresh baked bread, jam and honey. Departure time is normally around nine, and the days soon assume a familiar pattern. Lobsang or Stanzin go ahead with the trekkers, followed by our porter team. It is essential always to stay with our guides. This is the only trek in the world where the trail, literally, vanishes beneath your feet.

The first few days are generally problem free, but we can, and will, encounter times when we have to wait while we scout the best route. We prefer to stay on the river, and you will see Zanskaris take real risks to avoid rock climbing. For this reason you must have plenty of warm layers to throw on, and of course, spare socks. The ice conditions are too varied (and beautiful) to list, but there are one or two things to bear in mind. You will find yourself rapidly relaxing as you walk, enjoying the views; watching for wildlife. Look out particularly for snow leopard prints, Ibex on the gorge walls, and the crazy 'Dipper' birds that dive from the ice into the river, turning over pebbles looking for edibles. You will develop a sense of the safe and unsafe ice, and learn to catch yourself if you slip. Be sure to use your poles if you want to sound the ice. Your feet are unclean, and although the gods who inhabit the ice will allow you to walk, to stamp with your foot is not acceptable to them (thus of course you never use the ice as a toilet).

We lunch on pilaf, or Zanskari Kiu (dumpling stew) bread, cheese, jam, biscuits. Some days we can only have hot tea and an uncooked lunch. The ice conditions change quickly and what takes an hour at noon can take three hours by 3pm. We do not rush; but we do not dawdle! If you hear Zanskaris calling down the valley, particularly at the corners, don't worry; they are screaming to scare away the demons who lurk in the ice.

By 3-4pm we should be in camp on a plateau above the river. Today we start putting up our own tents, the porters gather firewood, and soon the tea is ready.

Day 5 - Trek to Dib Gufa 3225m

This is a stunning day as the river starts to curve and you can see the uphill slope of the ice as we ascend the river into Zanskar. We pass incredible waterfalls on our left, normally frozen into aquamarine ice cliffs. The waterfalls were said to have come from a river given to local people who visited Tibet centuries ago to plead for water for their barren land. They were given a box which they were told they must open only on their return home. The curious Zanskaris were nearly home when one of them opened it; out jumped a tiny fish, and the river sprung from the ground high above here. Also today we will probably have to climb briefly above the river - on the sharp bends the swiftness of the current breaks up the ice.

Lunch is on a natural stone bench by the river, and camp is near one of the many caves that are blackened by centuries of use by the fires of locals. Our porters use these caves to cook and sleep in. We opt to use tents because of the dust in the caves, cooler, but with far more pleasant air.

Day 6 - Trek to Neraks camp 3390m

Another spectacular daym which is our biggest one yet. Crags seem to leap up from the frozen river surface, and ibex can usually be seen defying gravity far above. After lunch we pass the 'incense tree', so called because the locals use its branches to burn in their morning rituals, and the prayer flag draped tree marks the entrance to Zanskar proper. The porters will normally take a few twigs from the tree, then tear a small piece of prayer flag to wrap it in, and present it to you. Welcome to Zanskar!

Twenty minutes later we turn a corner, and there, high above the river, is the bridge that links Zanskar with Ladakh, and Neraks village with Lingshed Monastery - in summer. Then the valley gorge opens up, and we see the small huts that mark some of the summer grazing of the Neraks villagers. The village is far above. A trail is normally beaten through the snow to these huts, where we camp. And rum is possible!

Day 7 - Trek to Dib Gongma 3400m

We leave early today as this stretch of river is, well, 'interesting'. Steep walls and narrow stretches make for some challenging conditions. By days end, though, we will be camped at Oma Chu, the 'Milk river' that joins up with our summer Zanskar trek route high above. The spires of rock above us have to be seen to be believed.

Day 8 - Trek to Hanumil 3500m

Another amazing day on the ice, and a long one, but we have a warm Zanskari kitchen to look forward to tonight. The Zanskar climbs and curves out of the gorge today, onto the start of the plains around Padum. Early in the morning here, what the early Arctic explorers call 'frost smoke' rises gently. Soon on our right we can see the summer route climbing away to the Parfi La. The last hour or so can be a true ice puzzle, as we need to skirt the road-building and cross the river at a wide and flat place. Once home, though, we stay with villagers that have made us welcome; summer, winter, fall and spring, for many years. We will have cozy stove-warmed rooms to sleep in, and a late morning, tomorrow to Pidmo is an easy day!

Day 9 - Trek to Pidmo

This is an easy day if the snow is good, but if fresh and deep it can take up to four hours to reach Pidmo, one of the original centers of the Kingdom of Zangla, sitting on its plateau high above the Zanskar. Although the village itself is safe, the sounds of avalanches can disturb a nights rest here.

Day 10 & 11 - Trek to and rest in Zangla

Not a hard day if there is a trail, but in fresh snow, it may be. We descend and cross the Zanskar leaving a food dump for the return journey, then slowly climb and traverse the wide plateau - that Gibraltar-like rock pinnacle in the distance is the fort above Zangla. Soon the main Himalayan barrier appears on the horizon, and you can make out Pishu over on the right. Then Zangla proper comes into view, sprawling below avalanche strewn slopes. Stanzin's house is in the upper village, and we have two wonderful nights here to curl up by the stove and relax.

Zangla has hordes of children, they seem to be everywhere; running, skiing, sledging on shovels. We also will try and visit the 15th century fort with its ancient prayer rooms, where the Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent the winter of 1823 studying Tibetan. We might visit the thriving village nunnery for the morning ceremony.

Day 12 - Trek to Hanumil

We look forward to our last night indoors, as tomorrow we are back on the ice. Our last glimpse, too, (for now) of the Himalaya, dropping behind us.

Day 13-18 - Trek to Chilling and drive to Leh

The same way back? Well, technically. In fact the Chadar changes by the minute, and the colors and perspectives all change, and yes, it is slightly quicker downhill. We camp in different places, and hope to visit another ancient monastery, if conditions allow. We do know that the Chadar will be as challenging on the return trip. At least we have plenty of time for those problems, and we do know that Angchuk and his jeeps will be waiting for us when we climb stiffly off the ice, the Chadar, one of the great adventures done!

Day 19 - spare day

For all those imponderables.

Day 20 - depart

We take you to the Leh airport, goodbye to this kingdom in the sky.

Walk on (frozen) water with us!

jdesign -- all rights reserved --  2012