Project Himalaya | Wild Zanskar Trek

Trekkers Say

I can guarantee that Kim, Lhakpa and the crew will put on a great trip and will take good care of you! As you've seen from a couple of other testimonials already, the food is exceptional and Kim's attention to detail especially in the dining tent, adds a great personal touch. Having done trips with other trekking companies before, it's the small details such this, combined with Kim's (Project Himalaya) obvious passion/empathy for these places and their people/culture that has drawn me back again and again. However, what really sets Project Himalaya apart for me, is that they provide a fantastic off-the-beaten track experience and do truly exploratory trips in an amazing part of the world!

Celesta F - Wild Ladakh 2009

I cannot stress how wonderful a time we all had. The company is run like a big family, and the trip is still something that I think about each day. I also will be going back for another go, and I will be trekking with Kim and her great crew.

John Turek, Nomads 2009

The team at Project Himalaya are first class. My trek this year was very well organized, food and sleeping accommodation all great, good variety in the menus. Kim and Lhakpa are very professional trek leaders along with their support crew. I intend doing another trek with Kim and her crew next year or the year.

Dennis B, Markha Valley 2009

Arrival in India

NOTE: Flights to/from Leh are NOT included in the price or itinerary.

Everyone will need to arrange their own flight or overland trip to Leh. You can book your international flights all the way to Leh, Ladakh (IXL) which will ensure that your flight provider is responsible for hotels if your flight is delayed or cancelled. You might also want to come overland from Manali, breath-taking jeep safari, or from Srinagar, both some of the planet's most spectacular overland routes.

Email us your flight arrival details and have our contact details with you when you arrive in Delhi in case you need assistance. Kim will have her mobile with her, as will our agents from Dhruv Travels, so don't hesitate to call. We can help with hotels, flights, airport pick-ups and drops, sightseeing in Delhi or travels further to Rajasthan or Agra & the Taj Mahal. (See Dhruv Travels).

Detailed Itinerary

Although we try to follow the itinerary below but it is only a guideline. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group's acclimatization rate or sickness.

The Himalaya are our passion, and we take trekking seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure ...

Day 1 - Meet in Leh 3500m

Welcome to Leh, the capital of predominantly Buddhist Ladakh, in Jammu and Kashmir, tucked away amidst the Ladakh mountains, part of the great Trans Himalayan range. If you arrive by air you'll feel the big jump in altitude and it will take your body a few days to adjust. If you arrive by road from Manali or Srinagar you'll have had some extra acclimatization en route, but will still need time to adjust to the 3500 meter altitude. Hydrate with plenty of water, stay away from beer for a few days, rest and don't over-exert yourself. Even walking up the stairs of the guest house, let alone the Leh Fort, will make you breathless for the first day or two. Diamox is a good way to help your body acclimatize naturally; Kim will discuss.

We stay at the family-run Shaynam Hotel, more of a family-run guest house with a lovely garden in the center courtyard, located just a few minutes south of the Main Bazaar in old Leh town. Your rooms will be booked for you, you'll just need to advise Kim of your arrival time, whether by air or by road. Once everyone has arrived and checked into rooms, Kim will show you around town: the bakeries, cafes, tandoori restaurants, email cafes, banks and wonderful markets. We'll meet for dinner in the evening at the Ibex or Summer Harvest, a few of our favorite restaurants.

Days 2, 3 - Leh

We've scheduled two free days in Leh to acclimatize and to enjoy the peaceful, willow-lined streets and bustling bazaar life of Singge Namgyal's 17th century capital of Ladakh, once an integral part of Western Tibet and a major trading post along the southern Silk Route. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town; the newly-restored ruins of the 17th century Leh Palace, the ancient 16th century Leh Fort and the attached Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, other historic Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the Sunni Muslim mosques, narrow back alleys with steaming Muslim bread, tiny antique shops tucked away amidst the many ancient stupas and architectural remnants, the exotic Main Bazaar (c. 1840s) which once accommodated trade caravans, and even a polo field. Caravans of merchants from far-flung destinations such as Yarkand, Tibet, Kashgar and North India passed through Leh during ancient trade missions, trading salt, wool, Pashmina, tea and semi-precious stones, lending to the city its exotic allure. Pilgrims flocked to the monasteries of Leh and the Indus valley, explorers of old stopped in Leh to re-stock and weather out the harsh Himalayan winter and soldiers en route to plunder and conquer desirous destinations passed through Leh, all leaving their mark on this unique capital.

Kim will take you for a walk up the bustling Fort Road, lined with shops owned by Kashmiri, Tibetan and Kashmiri shop-keepers, to 15th century Leh Fort and the red, Maitreiya Tsemo Gompa, perched high on a craggy and crumbling hilltop overlooking the bazaars of old Leh. You can stop at 16th century nine-story Leh Palace, of a similar architectural design to the Tibetan Potala Palace, on the way down if you have the energy. Visit the museum, a worthwhile endeavor, as well as the nearby gompas (Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) - Soma Gompa, Chamba Lakhang and Chensrig Lakhang. There is a great cultural show around sunset at Soma Gompa.

We might wander the willow-lines streets of Changspa to reach the many steps leading to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for a view over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. The precariously perched Leh Fort guards the eastern edges of the fertile valley. Sankar Gompa (17th - 18th century), reached through shady lanes to the east of Changspa, lies in the midst of Chubi's groves of poplar and willow and is another wonderful morning or afternoon walk. The back route to Leh Fort starts in Chubi and passes through a desert-like Buddhist cremation ground before climbing to the fortress.

OPTIONAL GOMPA-TRIP: Arrange (through Kim, our Tibetan jeep-driver Wang Chuk or the Shaynam Hotel) a 'jeep safari' through the fertile Indus Valley to visit a few of the living Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the 'cradle of civilization' of much of the ancient world. Kim can help arrange jeeps and/or a guide for a day's excursion.

To the East:Shey, Thikse, Hemis, Chemde, Thagthok, Stakna, Matho & Stok.
To the West: Spiyok, Phyang, Basgo, Likir, Alchi, Rizdong & Lamayuru.

OPTIONAL RAFTING-TRIP: You can arrange a day rafting trip on the Indus (easier) or the Zanskar River, approximately $35-$40.

Day 4 - Drive Kanji 3850m

After breakfast, we jump into our jeeps and head for the start of the trek at Henasku, a five hour drive through the historical, green Indus Valley. Leaving Leh we drive past the ancient Spitok Gompa, spectacularly perched on a craggy hillock above the cultivated fields of Spitok village and Phyang Gompa and village to the right. We continue along a cliff-side road past the intersection of the Indus River with the Zanskar River, the Zanskar villagers' lifeline during the harsh winters. Look out the back windows for a spectacular panorama of the Ladakh range, which extends westward to meet the Karakorum range in the distance. About an hour later, we'll spot Basgo Gompa and Fort, a 500 year old World Heritage site, situated spectacularly on a spur above the Indus. Further down the Indus on the right is the link road to Likir Gompa, and to the left the turnoff to the 1000 year old Alchi Gompa, built in the Northern Indian style with wonderful frescos and murals inside the many prayer rooms. Just past Alchi is the link road to Rizdong on the right; soon afterwards we cross the Indus at Khaltse, and an hour later are rewarded with the awesome sight of Lamayuru Gompa perched magnificently on a hillside far above the Indus. Another hour will bring us to the intersection of the village of Henasku, from where we continue along a dirt road through a dramatic, narrow gorge to our first campsite at Kanji. Kanji is a village of approximately 20 families in the Kargil region of Ladakh, a wonderfully scenic whitewashed village with an old gompa as well as a newer gompa. The lively village provides wonderful photographic opportunities in the evenings.

We meet our crew and horsemen and will set you up in your Big Agnes tents, show you around our 'Kamzang' style dining tent and settle in for the evening with a hot mug of chai

Day 5 - Trek Dumbar 4100m

After spending a leisurely morning at camp, we'll trek the 2 1/2 hours to our acclimatization campsite at Dumbur, a seasonal settlement of the Kanji people. Turning left just out of camp and crossing a bridge crossing the main Kanji River, we head left up the Chomothang Togpo (river) along a slightly exposed trail for a bit, soon reaching green pasturelands. Behind us we'll have wonderful views of Kanji and we look ahead to tomorrow's pass. We set up camp on some green fields just below the doksa, which will only be home to a few villagers. There is a new mani wheel in the village and side valleys leading to climbing peaks to the right of the village.

Day 6 - Trek Shillakong Sumdo 4000m

Our first exploratory day and our first pass ahead of us this morning, the 4700 meter Yokma La. It's quite a straight-forward 600 meter ascent of the pass, a climb which should take us approximately two hours. We'll have great views of the Ladakh and the Zanskar range from the summit. From the pass it should be another relatively easy ascent to the campsite at Shillakong Sumdo, and we should even be able to see the campsite nestled between groves of willows at the intersection of two rivers and three valleys. We've camped here starting from other routes and climbed the next pass from both directions. The camp is a bit lower in altitude than last night's so if you've felt the altitude climbing our first pass you will feel good back at our 4000 meter camp.

Day 7 - Trek to Nigutse La High Camp

Another pass day, a bit more difficult because of the altitude than yesterday's. Leaving camp we follow the small, glacial run-off stream, jumping once or twice, and directly start on our ascent of the 5100 meter Nigutse La. The trail is good the the switchbacks easy to climb so we'll top off without too much trouble, perhaps taking three hours to the pass. Ever expanding Trans-Himalayan views await us from the top. Heading down isn't difficult on the shale switchback, and becomes ever more spectacular as we reach small, sparkling streams and look back at the dinosaur-ridged valley. The shimmering valley narrows, and just afterwards we turn right, still able to look back at the pass. Camp is nearby on a flat, sun-baked plateau. Welcome to Nigutse La High Camp (approximately 4500 meters).

Day 8 - Trek Photoksar 4200m

The passes never stop! This morning we climb the ridge separating the Nigutse La Valley from the Honapatta Valley, drop down and then ford the large-ish river. Climbing right away, we'll soon crest the 4820 meter Sirsir La, our third of the many Ladakhi passes that we'll cross to reach Zanskar (Ladakh means 'Land of high passes'). 'Himalayan flat', as we say! The valley widens as we slowly ascend, and the rock-spires become ever more impressive, their hues of ochre and tans glowing gently in the morning rays. Crossing a small bridge, we continue along the left bank of the river, soon far above it. We reach a small parachute tea-house where we might stop for tea or lunch, marking the start to the steeper switchbacks to the crest of the pass. Expansive views of the craggy ranges surrounding us reward us at the prayer-flag festooned summit of the Sirsir La, and if it isn't too windy, we will have lunch up top. Afterwards, we descend to the incredibly scenic village of Photoksar, perched precariously on a hillside just past our camp, where if the wild flowers are in bloom, is one of the most beautiful spots in Ladakh, and certainly one of the most photographed. Our campsite is one of the best on the trek, with amazing views downriver to Photoksar, and the villagers, herding their flocks of sheep and goats, will stop by our campsite en route back to Photoksar with their herd of sheep and goats coming down from the high grazing hills ...

Take a walk along the river to the interesting village in the afternoon, well worth a bit of time, and spend the early evening watching the sun-rays filter through the village haze and the villagers heading back from the barley fields.

Day 9 - Trek Singge Valley Camp 4430m

After a mug of coffee and a good breakfast we head towards our second pass, the Bumiktse La, at 4400 meters. We hike on the same side of the river as our campsite (the right side), climbing gradually past a summer 'doksa' or grazing area with another campsite on to the pass, an hour and a half or so from camp. The deep gorge leading directly to Panjilla rises dramatically to our left as we climb. We are rewarded with great views of Photoksar and the fertile valley from the pass, as well as the Singge La valley, the Utah-like bulk of the Singge (lion) Peak and the Singge La (pass) ahead of us. This valley is the high pasture of the Photoksar villagers, and we pass their herds of sheep, goats and yaks all day en route to camp at the base of the pass. Bring sandals, as there are two rivers to cross during the day, the first at a line of ancient, whitewashed Tibetan Buddhist chortens.. Camp is set in a wide valley with plenty of space, lots of bird-life, many marmots, but no other trekkers in site, right on the banks of the clean but chilly stream. Grab a camp-chair, pick up a book, take a wash and enjoy the late afternoon sun (the morning sun is also late, unfortunately). We share the campsite with grazing yaks so don't be startled by grunts first think in the morning ...

Day 10 - Trek Yulchung 3900m

We'll have an early start this morning to catch the views across Ladakh and Zanskar from the 5000 meter Singge La, a two and a half hour hike from camp. Continuing on the left side of the stream, we reach the small parachute tents after an hour of gentle climbing through low brush, crossing the stream on small rocks. The climb becomes steeper here as we switch-back for another hour and a half to the top of the Singge La, the 'lion pass'. After a break to hang five-colored Tibetan prayer flags we drop steeply into the dramatic canyon on slightly exposed trails, contouring along old trails lined with Zanskar rose bushes. There are often blue sheep and ibex in this region, so have cameras ready and eyes open for falling rocks. The massive canyon walls to our left as we descend have been smoothed and textured by millenniums of wind and water erosion which have left strange caves throughout. The valley heats up as we follow the small trail that leads to the isolated village of Yulchung, meaning 'small kingdom', a remote and traditional village with a five-hundred year old gompa on the upper reaches of the village and another smaller 'lhakhang' perched on a precarious rock-ledge in front of the crescent-shaped village.

The staff have set up our camp behind the ancient chortens, in the threshing fields on the top edge of the village, right next to some wonderful old Ladakhi dwellings. The views from this village win Kim's vote for 'the-best-of-the-trek', and the villagers, not used to many trekkers, are welcoming and open. Tomorrow's pass is visible in the distance, as is the pass leading to 'Bear Valley', high up in the peaks in front of us, past the powerful Zanskar River.

We'll have many local visitors during the course of the afternoon and evening, and hopefully will have a chance to visit a traditional Ladakhi house and the gompa in the afternoon.

Day 11 - Trek Nyeraks 3710m

A fantastically scenic Himalayan day! We leave camp and wind our way through the extensive village and fields, eventually passing the ruins of the old 'lhakhang' and hermitage as we head towards the ridge that drops steeply out of Yulchung to the Zanskar River canyons far below. Keep an eye out for the red fox that lives in the vicinity, and for blue sheep grazing along the hillsides. After contouring around several hillsides, we have a small climb to the Chocho Khuri La, at 3865 meters. We then drop down a steep switchback into the gorge of the Zanskar River, which we cross by a wooden, cantilevered bridge that has definitely seen better days (look at the construction). We climb up the hillside on a winding trail past a unique version of a 'lhatoo' (a shrine to the mountain deities the locals believe live on local peaks), a sculpture made from ibex horns, to the village of Nyeraks, perched on a plateau high above the Zanskar. You begin to understand the harshness of life in such a setting, between pass and river gorge, a seemingly impossible place, with its own beautiful monastery, and even an old, sacred tree. The small village gompa is wonderful, a real relic of times past ... Our campsite is another spectacular one (in a chain of them), with incredible sunset views over the village, gompa and surrounding peaks. The quality of light in this part of the Himalaya is breathtaking, so be sure to have an evening stroll through the village and take some shots.

Day 12 - Trek Bear Camp 3980m

Up early for our steep, 1100 meter climb from Nyeraks up to the 4800 meter Takti La, a difficult climb which will take us four to five hours. We start climbing right out of the village, often steeply; take time to breath and look behind you towards the Singge La and the village, now a patchwork of greens, browns and tans far below us. Walking along an old irrigation wall, we climb and descend several times to cairn-topped hills, finally making our way carefully through the scree-slope leading to the Takti La. Notice the glacier flower blooming though out the walk. By lunchtime, we will be looking back across to the Singge La and the serrated ridges that we have crossed over the past few days, and an hour later, we will have crested our second, smaller pass (named Oh Shit La after the view upon reaching this pass from the other direction, and seeing the Takti La looming ominously ahead of us). We have now entered what we call Bear Valley, and a steep trail down brings us to the clearing that we call Bear Camp (although we haven't actually spent the night there with one) and into our 'lost valley' of Zanskar. The crew will light a fire tonight to keep the bears at bay (although the rumors are that the villagers of Zangla shot them after the bears raided their sheep paddocks) ...

Note: Our only actual bear spotting was in 2003, when our group did this trek for the first time. We spotted a brown bear cub right next to us, and then across the valley what we presumed to be its parents, not looking happy that a large group of trekkers were hanging out with their offspring. The next season we only spotted frozen bear scat and no prints, but in 2005 we again spotted fresh bear scat, so we presume that the bears are back! We hope to see them in 2007 ...

Day 13 - Trek Karmafu 3780m

Our short walk today is an exciting and beautiful one, first along the willow-lined stream, jumping back and forth often, and then over (or under) an ice bridge and through a narrow canyon with ankle deep water (bring sandals). Next on the list of adventures is a high, exposed trail over the river followed by an easy river fording and another canyon trek on crumbling trails. Just past this tricky section, we crest a small rise and have a lovely view down valley towards our plateau campsite, a spectacular one. We often stop for lunch a at the junction of a small stream where in 2005 Kim set off alone to help get camp set up, heard a loud splashing very close to her which she assumed to be a bear, and came running back to the lunch spot. Joel and the boys, ever brave, came running out with the bear spray to do battle. Be on the look-out for the prints and scat of snow-leopard, fox and wolf as well as bear.

We arrive in our fantastic, cliff-side campsite in the early afternoon, in time to enjoy the views, go for a dip in the stream, and possibly spot some blue sheep and ibex that roam the hillsides here. The hoodoos that line the river bank opposite camp are amazing sculptures of eroded rock and mud which hosted a show of acrobatic blue sheep several years ago. We might build a camp-fire in the evening, a practice first started to keep the bears away years ago!

Day 14 - Trek Zangla Doksa River Camp 3430m

A small saddle above our campsite leads us to our small trail, following a willow-lined stream, which we ascend for several hours before heading up a bit more steeply for an easy crossing the Namtse La, a desert-like pass at 4430 meters. If the weather cooperates, this is our lunch spot, a scenic one! Afterwards, we'll drop steeply into another valley of Zanskar roses which, after some three hours walking, brings us out onto the wide plain that was the once kingdom of Zangla. You really get a sense of why this remained a hidden kingdom for so long as you look around; to your left, the capital, Zangla and its hilltop fort. Past Zangla, the Himalayan barrier, and the Umasi La to Kashmir; the wooden beams that are the centre of most Zanskari houses came from there, laboriously carried by porters. Below the Zanskar curves away into the Muslim Suru valley and the Pensi La, closed for all but three months of every year and in front, behind the villages of Pidmo and Pishu, the Zanskar range cuts off approach for all but those like us, a well equipped caravan. After emerging from the gorge we have a one hour walk through Honya Doksa and along the Zanskar plateau (or along the riverside, a slightly longer but nicer route) to our lovely riverside camp which we call Zangla Doksa River camp. Doksa means seasonal nomadic settlement in Ladakhi, and the locals from Honya Doksa will pass by in the evenings with their large herds of sheep, goats and donkeys, making for some classic photos of traditional life in Zanskar.

The grass is green and the stream warm, so go for a wash and settle in for the evening. Sunsets and sunrises are amazing from camp!

Day 15 - Zangla Doksa River Camp

Finally a rest and exploration day; options are to hang at camp and relax in this sublime setting or to hike up and explore the wonderful and historic Zanskari village of Zangla.

Zangla option: Climbing gradually out of our campsite, we hike along the plateau past a weathered rock carved with thousand-year old Mon chortens, soon reaching Zangla Chomo Gompa (nunnery) to the northern side of the village, and then follow the village road past the King of Zangla's house, where we had tea last summer with the royal residents, including the Queen Mother. The young King of Zangla is now in his 40s, and the new house right next to the somewhat dilapidated royal residence is the house of the village carpenter! The piece de resistance of Zangla, however, is its fortress, presently being restored by an organization called 'Cosmos Room'. The ruins of the 500 year-old Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the ancient Kings of Zangla, are a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of look-out towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally 'melted' the dzong, and it is now quite as safe as it was previously. The famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19th century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room. The fort is guarded over by a giant, new stupa built in 2009, while more ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend back to the village and eventually to camp.

Kim & Lhakpa will heaad into Padum to resupply and others may choose to make a wonderful Zanskar gompa tour:

OPTIONS: Get a group together to hire a jeep to visit the fascinating, old gompas of Zanskar from Padum. You will have time to visit the 1000 year old Sani Gompa on the Stod River, the route out to Rangdum and the Suru Valley. From Sani, you can take the back roads to Karsha Gompa, one of the largest and most scenic in Zanskar or Ladakh, built high up into the cliffs above the village of Karsha. To return, you will pass back through Padum where you can do some email or pick up supplies at the many shops. Padum is a very Central Asian feeling village, a transit point for goods coming and going from Leh to Kargil, with a large Muslim population. There are some thousand year old pre-Tibetan Buddhist Buddha carvings just below Padum, worth a look if you're stopping in town. And pick up a plate of momos on the main drag! En route back to Stongde, make a quick stop at Pipiting Gompa on a small hill in the direction of Stongde. And that should be a full day.

Day 16 - Zangla Sumdo

We start our second exploratory section of the trek, this one a five-day wild route through the colorful gorges and canyons leading from Zangla to the remote Shun Shade Valley. We start this section by trekking part of the Jumlam, or 'middle road' route, an old trade route leading into Zanskar when the rivers were low enough to trek along the riverbeds. Accordingly, we'll need sandals almost every day of this route.

Leaving our idyllic Zangla camp, we trek the 45 minutes up to the Zangla Ani Gompa (nunnery), along the road past the dillapidated king's house and then up to the impressive Zangla Fort. From here we head left, or east, along the Zumlung Chu (river), crossing many times in the willow-shaded valley. First, though, we pass the protector diety's small lha-khang (god's house) on the right of the trail followed by several lookout towers, now crumbling and in ruins. It should take us about five hours of easy walking and river crossings to reach our campsite, just past the turnoff (to the right) leading to our usual Jumlam route, the Charchar La. Camp will usually be warm but will lose the sun early.

Day 17 - Trek Golungtse

Our second exploratory day. We follow shimmering rivers, with plenty of 'Himalayan flat' we can be sure. We'll camp at a spot locals call Golungtse, before the next day's pass. This route is known by villagers from Tsazar just south of Zangla, who use the valley as their summer pastures. Villagers from Shade also graze closer to Shade and know the route. Our information comes from villagers from both villages, and we hope to have a local along to help us with the route.

Day 18 - Trek Niri Chun

Day three of our explorations. We cross the 5150 meter Pandang La today so have your pass gear as well as your sandals with you. From the map it looks like quite a steep ascent and a slightly more gentle ascent. We're not sure of the altitude of our camp so don't know exactly how far we'll climb to the pass. Expect at least a 600 meter climb. We descend to our doksa camp at a place the locals call Niri (or Yari) Chun or Zangdum Chen.

Day 19 - Trek Mitsik Doksa

Day four of our exploratory section brings yet another pas, the Lar La (4850 meters). We've seen this one from the other side. The valley is now a dramatic combination of soaring cliff-walls, canyons and green river valleys, lovely. We have quite a distance to trek before we start the ascent of the pass, and probably several river crossings en route. The Lar La is a steep grazing ridge which drops right down (again steeply) to a green doksa where we'll set up camp for the night. We're right below the next day's pass, the Rotang La, so we will arrive at Shade early enough to explore this wonderful remote village.

Day 20 - Trek Shade 4270m

We've been up the Rotang La from the Shade side so we're moving into familiar territory. It shold take us less then two hours to climb to the 4890 meter Rotang La from camp, a relatively easy climb. The valley on the Shade side is colorful in shades of yellows, oranges and reds. It's a lovely and easy descent to Shade, less than an hour away. We've seen snow leaopard prints in this valley so keep you eyes on the trail. Our campsite is just past Shade village, on the only flat area next to a stream, a spot perfectly situated for sunrise and sunset shots over Shade.

Shade village, not often visited by Westerners, is one of the high points of our trek, so take the afternoo to explore the village. Shade is a cluster of mud-brick houses, packed closely together, with corrals for the goats and sheep, grass drying on the rooftops, small vegetable gardens and an idyllic feel to it. We'll visit some of the local houses for a glass of 'chang', the Tibetan barley beer, yogurt from the nearby doksa or some 'churpi', dried cheese. Some of the locals stay up in the doksas north of our campsite, sometimes returning every few days and other times staying longer. The villagers rotate grazing their flocks and protecting them from the many wolves and snow leopards in the area! They grow barley, potatos, sag, radish, cilantro, cabbage, cauliflower and carrots, a real feast compared to other Himalayan villages. We'll do some local shopping in the afternoon if anyone wants to tag along.

Day 21 - Trek Tantok 4020m

An easy day today so we'll have a leisurly morning at Shade before heading out. Leaving our Shangri-La via a trail directly below the village, we descend past the harvesting villagers for about 45 minutes to where the river descends dramaticaly and the canyon closes in on us. At the intersection of main Shun Shade river we reach the village 'lhatoo' (4100 m), a kata-covered monument to Shade's protector diety called Cho Gyumjang, a female godess. Her peak is just to the left if you're looking up the narrow canyon towards Shade, and locals invite the monks from Phuktal Gompa to have a yearly puja for her (which we've been lucky to see). We have about ten minutes of slightly exposed trail as we head towards Tantok, turning left at the lhatoo. Soon the valley opens, the turquoise river takes wide S turns and our canyons become dramatic hoodoos over the riverbed. We can see the tiny hamlet of Tantok ahead, with its small gompa said to be either 30-40 or 750 years old. Perhaps there was an ancient meditation cave at the site of this gompa, which the caretaker told us was built by a lama from Phuktal. The interesting woman who holds the key might be around to show us the village treasure. There are apparently only three people living in the village and about as many houses. Still, it's certainly a secnic spot built up on a craggy hill overlooking this idyllic valley. We'll camp about half an hour away near the river in a grove of willows, so head out for an afternoon swim.

Day 22 - Trek to Phuktal Gompa 3900m

Our third short exploratory section . We head along the river gorge leading directly to Phuktal Gompa, spectacularly built into a cliff-side and one of the most colorful gompas in Zanskar as well as one of the oldest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the Indian Himalaya. It should take us about seven hours to reach Phuktal from our camp at Tantok, with no river crossings but trekking near the Tsarap Chu the entire day. I'm sure there will be ups and downs en route. The monastery has a school attached to it, and the young, lively monks are always keen to practice their English or to have a photo taken. The gompa itself is a real Central Asian treasure with ancient prayer rooms, an old library, a fountain with magical waters in the original cave, a Tibetan medicine center, a wonderful kitchen and many old friends. Singge, the young Zanskari boy that we sponsor for school at the Himalayan Buddhist School in Manali, stayed a few years at this Phuktal before being 'evicted' for bad behavior!

Day 23 - Trek Purne 3830m

It's an easy, short and beautiful hike along the Tsarap Chu on a precipitous canyon trail, but a good, newly built one. Purne is at confluence of the Tsarap Chu and the Kargyak Chu and on the main Zanskar route so there are sure to be trekkers around. Camp is lovely, grassy and warm to take advantage of the free time to relax, do some laundry and have a cold beer from Dolma's shop. Dolma is the local amchi, a good friend of ours, and also has hot bucket shower on offer.

*** We may head further to Testa, let's see how long we spend at Phuktal Gompa.

Day 23 - Trek Tangze 4000m

Leaving our idyllic campsite at Purne, we descend back down to the small bridge and then hike back up to the main Zanskar trail following the Kargyak Chu. Kargyak is a large village at the end of the Zanskar valley; Singge comes from this village, and his blind mother still lives there, migrating to the 'doksas' to take care of the animals in the summertime. We pass the small village of Yal, where fodder and kindling dry on the rooftops, in half an hour, and then continue on our high trail overlooking the Kargyak Chu for another hour until we reach the labyrinthine village of Testa, an oasis of green fields and traditional Zanskari houses. Next comes the colorful Kuru with its many threshing circles and white-washed mani walls. Trekking further along the trail past Kuru's long chain of mani walls, we descend crossing a small stream coming down from our right, and then continue along the river bank for another half an hour. We cross the Kargyak Chu on a large bridge, continuing for another hour or so to the village of Tangze, with its many-hued patchwork of fields. We'll stop at the small the small teahouse, owned by our friend Sonam Dorje, for a cup of tea. Above us to the right of the trail is Tangze Gompa, one of the oldest in Zanskar, backed by jagged, dun-colored peaks.

We set up camp somewhere near here for the night, leaving the main Zanskar valley behind us tomorrow.

Days 25 - Trek Zingchen

Day 26 - Trke to Sumik Marpo

Day 27 - Trek to Toyar

Day28 - Trek to Mid-Camp

Day 29 - Trek to Serchu

Details coming, ran out of time to edit. This is the spectacular Phirtse La section ...

Day 30 - Drive to Leh

The trek is finished, and we'll relax in our jeeps and enjoy the spectacular five hour drive through Rupshu and the Indus Valley along the Manali - Leh highway; a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back at the Shaynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori food and cold beers are not far away at the Ibex or Summer Harvest.

Day 31 - Trip Ends

Our wonderful Himalayan journey ends today, sadly. You have several options after the trip: a flight back to Delhi, an epic 'jeep safari' back to Manali or elsewhere in the Indian Himalaya, or spending more time in Leh. We're happy to assist on all fronts, but no flights are included in our India treks anymore.