Nomads & Caravans of the Changtang

'The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.'
- St. Augustine

The 'Nomads & Caravans' trek is a Project Himalaya classic, run yearly in the vast Changtang region of Ladakh, always exploring slightly different routes. We've been trekking in this nomadic region of the Indian Himalaya for years, and have come up with some truly wonderful treks. This year we are re-tracing old Silk Route trails of the high Changtang plateau, a spectacular region reminiscent of 'old Tibet'.

The journey begins near Leh at Spitok Gompa, a new route into the green Markha Valley, where we have plenty of time to explore the traditional Ladakhi villages, crumbling forts and Buddhist gompas of the valley. The meandering Markha River is our guide; we follow it through groves of apricot, willow and popular, look out for grazing blue sheep and gaze up at the cathedral-like structures perched on the cliffs which tower above us. Tibetan Buddhism, along with remnants of an older, more animist Bon religion, infuses the region with powerful symbols: 'lhatoos' or offering chortens for the mountain deities scatter the hillsides, monasteries hold 'pujas' or prayer ceremonies in the mornings and evenings, prayer flags are strung up on high peaks, monks wander the trails and villagers bring offerings to the gompas.

After crossing the 5200 meter Zalung Karpo La, with snow-clad Kang Yatze behind us, we enter the Ladakhi nomadic region of Kharnak. We camp in our own Tibetan-style festival tent near the Kharnak-pa nomadic settlements, their flocks of sheep and goats herded into camp in the late afternoon by the shrill cries of the nomad inhabitants. Their yak-hair tents, which they move caravan-style every few months, are the same as they have been for centuries, worth a visit for a cup of salt-butter tea, fresh yogurt and a handful of yos. This region, the Changtang plateau, extends far north into Tibet, and sits along the old Silk Route, once the main highway for the exchange of silk, tea, pearls, wool, salt and other commodities.

Now the highlights of the trek!

Heading southeast, we cross remote mountain passes to reach the 4500 meter Changtang plateau and Lake Tso Moriri, where the Tibetan nomads of Rupshu and Korzok still graze and trade near the old Silk Route trails. This region is famed for its good grazing, and the nomadic population has traditionally transmigrated from the high plains of Tibet in search of nutritious grass for their livestock, salt to trade, and a market for their butter and wool. The high-altitude brakish lakes of Tso Moriri and Tso Kar, backed by high snow-peaks, are stunning, and we camp along the meandering rivers that feed into the lakes. Kyang (wild ass) roam these wide valleys, guarding their territory, and marmots, pikas, Himalayan hare and many high altitude birds and fowl live in the region. It is a truly awesome landscape of wide plateaus, snow-peaks, grassy meadows, blue skies and meandering streams. Our jeeps meet us at Lake Tso Kar, where we finish our adventure with a drive along the Leh-Manali highway back to Leh, the lovely Shynam Hotel and the Central Asian bazaars of Leh.

This is a challenging Himalayan trek, a journey back in time to the days of Silk Route trade in western Tibet, and a real adventure!

Outline Itinerary

Detailed Itinerary

*Note that although we try to follow the itinerary below, at times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on our trekkers' acclimatization rates.

*The Spitok Markha Valley trek will be with the Nomads of the High Silk Route trek until Narbus, when the Markha Valley trek section finishes.

Arrival in India

Most flights into Delhi arrive late at night or very early in the morning; plan the date and time of your arrival carefully. Please email us your flight arrival details as soon as possible, and have our contact details with you when you arrive in Delhi. Kim will have her mobile with her, as will our drivers from Dhruv Travels, so don't hesitate to call.

Day 1 - Arrive Delhi

A representative from Dhruv Travels will meet your international flight at the New Delhi airport, so look for a yellow Project Himalaya sign as well as a sign with your name on it. They will bring you to the hotel for the afternoon or evening, usually not much time before your flight the next morning so try to get to sleep as early as possible ...

Day 2 - Fly Leh 3500m

It's an early morning in steamy Delhi as we board the spectacular Jet Air flight, crossing the main Himalayan Barrier to reach Leh, the capital of Ladakh. We will feel the elevation as it's a big jump from sea-level to 3500 meters, and it will take your body a few days to adjust to this altitude. It's very important to drink plenty of water, and to not over-exert yourself while wandering around Leh. Even walking up the stairs of the guest house will make you breathless for the first day or two. Note that we have planned plenty of acclimatization time into our itinerary.

Days 3, 4 - Leh

We have two more days to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of this little piece of old Tibet, King Tashi Namgyal's 15th century Himalayan capital. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town, and Kim knows it well; the fort and palace, colorful gompas, the mosque, a museum, back alleys with steaming Muslim bread and tiny antique shops tucked away, colorful bazaars and even a polo field ... And, of course, we'll show you the bakeries, cafes and tandoori restaurants with cold beer for our dinners together!

We'll spend part of one day visiting some of the wonderful Tibetan Buddhist gompas and ancient forts which make the Indus valley such a scenic and historic region.

Day 5 - Drive Spitok. Trek Jingchan 3600m

After breakfast, we jump into our jeeps and head for the start of the trek at the ancient Spitok Gompa, spectacularly perched on a craggy hillock above the cultivated fields of Spitok village. We'll spend a bit of time at the gompa, and then after meeting our horsemen and loading our horses, head off on the start of our trek via a bridge over the Indus. Heading west parallel to the river on a small jeep track, we reach the small village of Parka, and then continue along the arid plains on the southern bank of the Indus. We see Phe village with its willows and poplars on the opposite side of the river, and start climbing gradually above the Indus, looking down onto its circuitous path through wide canyons below. As the gorge narrows, we may see rafters below. We pass the manis marking the confluence of the Jingchan and Indus rivers, and then cross the Jingchan River on a small bridge and stop for lunch under shady trees. Our campsite, not far past the river crossing and about four hours from Spitok, is in the middle of the small hamlet of Jingchan. We'll set you up in your tents, show you around our 'Kamzang' style dining tent and settle in with a mug of chai. Beers are available at a small tea-house nearby, and since we haven't ascended too high, you can chill one in the stream!

Day 6 - Trek Rumbak Sumdo 3800m

After breakfast, we'll put on our sandals for a day of many river crossings, some of them over small, wooden bridges, and head off towards our camp at Rumbak Sumdo. We pass through a small canyon and cairns with prayer flags, and have our first view of the snow-peaks of the Stok Range to the south and the Ladakh Range to the north. Entering a broad valley, we reach the nine houses of Rumbak, marked by circular mani stones by the trail and flanked by the Rumbak Kangri range. It's not a long day, but Rumbak with it's billowing fields of barley, is an idyllic spot to camp, and a good spot to acclimatize for the high Ganda La (pass) in two days.

Day 7 - Trek Ganda La Base Camp 4500m

Following the Jingchan River upstream past more green fields, we cross a small bridge and head towards Yurutse, a hamlet of only one (large) household, situated at 4200 meters with magnificent views of Stok Kangri. As we ascend slowly, look for chukors (striped partridges) and marmots amongst the grassy valley floor and multi-hued, rocky slopes surrounding us. We are treated to more views of the Stok Range as we reach Ganda La High Camp about an hour after Yurutse. We'll set up camp near the tea-house in a spectacular setting, throw on some warm clothes, enjoy the sunset and get ready for the Ganda La pass tomorrow.

Day 8 - Trek Shingo 4150m

Our first pass day, so we're up early with a hot mug of coffee and a good breakfast to get us going, starting off with a steep climb of the hill to the right of camp, along a gully, and then switch backing up to the top of the hill. Behind us, Stok Kangri looms impressively, and we will take some time to catch our breath and take in the views. It will take us less than an hour to reach the pass from here; at the Ganda La pass (4930 meters), 360 degree views await us, and we can see as far as the Zanskar Range to the south. After hanging our first multi-colored Tibetan prayer flags, we head steeply down into the Shingo Valley, which we can see below us. The trail becomes more gradual, and a few hours later we arrive at our campsite of Shingo Village, another small hamlet of two house, marked by chortens and a mani wall.

Day 9 - Trek Skyu 3360

A relatively short day to Skyu, through fields and open woods, and through a colorful canyon of craggy rocks and unusual rock formations, crossing the Shingo stream several times en route. Willows shade us a bit as we continue on, and the seabuckthorne bushes will be sagging under the weight of their tart, orange berries. Passing a tea-house along the trail, we will reach the lovely village of Skyu in less than an hour, and have time to explore the thousand year old gompa as the crew sets up our campsite along the river past the cluster of white-washed chortens and mani walls (look at the carvings). Cold beers are ready at all of the many tea-houses, and the grassy campsite is a good place to wash up. We'll see other trekkers here, as Skyu is an intersection of many trails leading through the Markha Valley.

Day 10 - Trek Markha 3780m

A wonderful, diverse day of trekking through willow and poplar groves, past small Ladakhi houses, up onto the cliff-side trail if the river-side trail isn't good (it was washed out last year) and across the Markha river on a wonderful, old bridge before reaching Sara three hours later, a green, wet grazing area of the Markha people. We'll have lunch here, and continue on past large chortens and an ornate mani wall, which looks out towards an ancient meditation cave on the plateau across the river. We arrive at a tea-house along a rocky riverbed, and then pass briar patches of seabuckthorne and the ruins of ancient 'dzongs' and monasteries built high up into the cliff sides. Crossing another small bridge, we reach the small tea-house of a local wood-carver and walk along the left bank of the river, with spectacular canyons and spires above us, along the trail marked by old, crumbling Tibetan chortens. After passing a long mani wall and impressive, giant chortens (look back for wonderful views of the Markha Valley behind us), we'll stop for a break at an ancient 'lhatoo', or offering monument for the local mountain deities, where offerings of chang are served up in sheep horns. A powerful site. As we approach the intersection of the Markha valley with another small tributary about an hour later, we'll pass a group of tri-colored chorten marking the valley, gaze up-valley at the cliff-dwelling built into the valley wall, and descend by the wolf trap to the river, where we often have a wide river crossing (sandals recommended). We'll see the ruins of the Markha fort ahead of us on a hillside before we arrive at the village about half an hour later. We camp at one of two wonderful, grassy campsites, and are visited by all the village kids before dinner ...

If we have time before dinner, we can head to Markha Gompa, recently renovated, and take a walk through the lively, colorful and friendly village and its barley fields. Otherwise, we'll do it in the morning before heading off.

Day 11 - Trek Hankar 4010m

Another classic Himalaya trekking day, but shorter than yesterday, starting with an old mill and a climb up on the cliff-side trail over the left river bank for amazing views back to the Ladakh Range. Soon, we approach the small hamlet of Umlung, and soon after the incredible Tertha Gompa, built at the top of a razor-sharp rock, and with views up and down the valley. We'll hike up for a look.

Just before the gompa, we will have to cross the river two times, so have your sandals with you. At the monolith and 'lama's seat', where a local lama will give a yearly puja, look up the valley off to the right leading to the Ruberang La and the wild Jumlam trek. Ahead of us, the 6400m Kang Yatze looms dramatically, its peak a pure snow-cap. We have another hour or so to Hankar village, guarded by a centuries old fort way up on the top of a rock spire. We camp just before the fort, in another grassy campsite, and have time in the afternoon to visit the fort, the village or to relax with a book.

A free afternoon to explore the picturesque village of Hankar and the ancient fort, of which there is very little written history. Unbeatable views from the top, and many ancient mani stones, relics such as mortars and pestles, and clues to the past on the top. We'll see if we can visit some of the villagers to see a traditional Ladakhi house, perhaps barter for some local crafts, and have a cup of salt butter tea. Alternatively, the village of Doltokling makes a wonderful, short day trip, and there is the chance of spotting some blue sheep on the craggy hillsides nearby.

Day 12 - Trek Mani Chen 4440m or High Camp 4680m

The villagers are out in the barley fields as we head through Hankar, over a small bridge away from the high pastures of Nyimaling and up the Langthang Chu towards the base of the Zalung Karpo La (our first pass) this morning. Bring your sandals as we'll have a few river crossings throughout the day. We might see blue sheep in the nearby hillsides, so keep an eye out and your camera ready. We'll have lunch about half way up the valley near a boggy, green spring surrounded by rounded rocks and flowers; it's a lovely day of wilderness trekking! We should reach camp with plenty of sun to spare, and there are some great spots for a wash down by the river. The campsite, meaning 'place of mani stones', is an old stop on the nomadic route, a lovely plateau with early sun in the morning!

If everyone is feeling fit, we may shorten our day tomorrow by continuing another 1 1/2 hours up to High Camp, another lovely campsite with late afternoon sun.

Day 13 - Sorra (over Zalung Karpo La) 4300m

A sunny breakfast in (or outside of) our dining tent, and an early start for our first pass, the Zalung Karpo La. It will take us three hours of rocky riverside walking to reach the access valley to the pass, so again, you'll probably want your sandals. Heading right up a side valley, we follow a small stream much of the way up the pass until the way opens up to a false summit, and finally about an hour later, the 5200 meter Zalung Karpo La itself. Ahead in the distance, both the Zanskar and the Himalayan ranges are visible, an impressive site.

If it's not too windy, we'll lunch at the cairn on top of the pass; the descent is steep and sandy, and the valley below can be scorching; we are now entering Kharnak, the high altitude grazing region of the Ladakhi nomads. After about 2 1/2 more hours of hiking and a few more possibly tricky river crossings, depending on the water lever, we'll cross our final river to reach our lovely campsite at the grazing region of Sorra. The rock formation ahead is actually a 15th century fort and the triangular peak beyond is sacred to the local people (although last year we camped a bit before our normal campsite, which was washed out by the floods the previous year, so couldn't see the fort from there).

Day 14 - Trek Dat 4310m

A canyon day, starting again with easy river crossings, and continuing through a semi-permanent village with threshing fields and an old mill, and then recently used nomadic settlements with their livestock paddocks and stone loom bases. The fort, called 'Khar Ruins' on the map, is perched impressively above us, an ancient guard of the many valleys. The day continues with more superlatives springing to mind; we approach a fantastic, narrow and sculpted canyon of ankle deep water (why use the bridge?) and then a wider canyon of dramatic spires, tawny cliffs, willows and a gurgling river. Turning left at the wide intersection of Tantse Sumdo, we head further into Kharnak and the pasturelands of Dat. Another 2 1/2 hours later, after trekking through a hot (and often buggy) valley of willows and cliffs, following the Kharnak Chu (river), we reach the fantastic Kharnak 'lhatoo' (called just Lhatoo on the map), where the nomads make offerings to their local deities every spring. Beautifully carved mani stones are piled along extensive platforms, yak skulls carved with Om Mani Padme Hum are stacked in the main altar, bowls smelling of old butter await next year's puja and multi-colored prayer flags flutter in the wind. An impressive entrance to Dat!

Continuing on through a lush valley of meandering streams and springs, we pass shrines to the mountain gods that live on the surrounding peaks. Yaks graze and cool themselves in the streams, and a cloud of dust could be a nomad on horseback. 1 1/2 hot hours later, after cresting two arid plateaus with long mani walls indicating an old trade route, we reach Dat.

Our campsite for the next two nights is a wonderful high altitude pastureland next to the now-deserted village of Dat; marmots share the campsite with us, and kyang might check us out from the valley behind Dat. Sunsets and sunrises are glorious from camp, so it's worth a visit to the small teahouse to pick up a beer for 'sundowner' ...

Day 15 - Dat

The perfect, grassy campsite for a full day of total relaxation; or throw in some washing (the meandering side streams are warm), eating (rest days are made for this), reading and sleeping. If you feel like a wander, head up the side valley in back of Dat village for an afternoon of wildlife spotting, and spend some time in the deserted village and Dat Gompa. There is also a (slightly difficult) hike up the plateau and peak above Dat for amazing views down on the valley, but be ready for some scrambling.

The semi-permanent village of Dat is fascinating, and the gompa worth a visit if we can find the key-keeper, who often collects the camp charges. Wander through the empty passageways between the stone houses; the discarded rubbish gives a picture of what life is like during the inhabited periods.

Day 16 - Trek Lungmoche 4710m

Another pass day, starting with a three hour hike down valley parallel to the Zanskar Range, during which we often see the herd of kyang that live in the nearby valleys. The male often comes out to the main valley to scout for the herd. Himalayan hares also live in the valley, and dart in and out of site. Fill your bottles at the turnoff to the pass valley as there may not be any water until the other side of our pass, the 4850 meter Yar La. We have lunch at the start of the pass (or at top), and then head up towards the pass, a relatively easy climb of just over 1 hour from lunch following the winter snow wall. The pass itself has some beautiful carvings including the Kharnak mountain deity, a lovely mountain goddess, and the wall that crosses it is to help locals cross in winter snow. It's just half an hour down to our campsite at Lungmoche, another lovely pastureland, with a nearby stream for washing.

Day 17 - Spagmur 4610m

Heading down valley along the snaking riverbed, we pass the summer habitations of the Ladakhi nomads, now just rings of rocks for the yak-hair tents, wells and stone storage huts. Kyang also inhabit this valley; we've seen them racing across the valley to ward us off. Climbing a small pass to the right of the trail, we descend through a fantastic canyon of sculpted rocks to the plateau of Sangtha village, and its sparse settlement which locals inhabit in the autumn. This village marks the end of Ladakhi nomadic region and the start of Tibetan one. After crossing the Zara Chu (bring your sandals), which eventually leads to Zanskar, we stop for lunch at the chortens marking the entrance to Spagmur and the exit from Sangtha. Another few hours of trekking brings us to the Tibetan village of Spagmur, perhaps with a herd of yaks grazing nearby. Look back across the Zara Chu to see 'The Five Sisters' peaks, the dwelling of the five mountain goddesses that live in the distinctly shaped range.

Day 18 - Trek Narbus 4820m

We start right up the steep slope heading towards the 4950 meter Spogmur La, having to contour around several hillsides to reach the top two hours later; from here, we are treated to wide open mountain views and we can spot way below the canvas and yak-hair tents of the Tibetan nomadic settlement of Narbus, where we'll set up camp for the night. Some relatives of Lobsang's, one of our guides, camp here every summer, and we can take a look at the inside of a nomad tent or two in the afternoon. Be ready, as we will be offered salt tea and fresh curd (yogurt). Narbus is a good place to donate your supplies or extra clothes; two years ago we had a meeting of a the women from each tent, and distributed evenly much needed school supplies and extras, and last year we bargained for yak and sheep-hair blankets and nomadic knives with binoculars, a Leatherman and some cash.

The evenings are a wonderful time of the day here; as the sun just begins to set, the nomads return to camp herding their hundreds of sheep and goats, and the yaks wander back to the tents, followed by the haunting yells of the Tibetans.

*** This is the last day of the Markha Valley trek, so we will have their 'tips' and farewell party tonight, and send them off in their jeeps in the morning. We'll also be re-supplying from the pick-up jeeps, so Lhakpa & Kim will unloading and sorting for some of the afternoon ...

Day 19 - Trek Numa River Camp 4610m

After goodbyes to our Markha Valley trekkers, we cut across the Narbus valley for two hours to the Leh - Manali highway, and then right across the plateau towards the spectacular canyon that extends from Pang. It can be hot and there is now shade, so it's a good day for an umbrella. Look up and down valley in as the views are spectacular, especially as we reach the edge of the plateau leading to Pang. Dropping steeply down a scree-filled gully, we slip our way down to the riverbed far below. Our campsite is right on the river at the intersection of a lovely stream, under the pillars of eroded sand which have formed themselves into Himalayan cathedrals called hoodoos. We'll have time in the afternoon for a wash in the river, or a wander up the stream bed to the left of camp ...

Day 20 - Trek Zozogong 4940m

The trek takes on a completely different character now, as we follow the wide valley for 2 1/2 hours along the flood plain, jumping (and splashing through) the river many times and passing three large valleys (one without water) to the left side of the river. Crumbling hoodoos line the trail on either side, backed by vivid blue skies and fluffy Himalayan clouds. Eventually, we reach the large turnoff at the far left of the valley, which leads to the base of the Thelekang La, the 4980 meter pass above our camp. From the turnoff, it should take us about 1 1/2 hours of walking along a small stream with wide open views to reach the hill leading to the pass, and another easy hour of climbing to the pass. En route, we'll see large flocks of sheep and Pashmina goats roaming the hillsides with their owners. Below us, we see the horses reaching our campsite and ahead in the distance, the snow-capped Himalayas to the south of Lake Tso Moriri. Zozogong is a fantastic campsite; years ago we woke up surrounded by snow after an evening of kyang spooking our horses the night before. There is sometimes a group of Korzok-pa nomads camped here, so we may have company. Views are great, camp is grassy, there is plenty of water for washing, so enjoy the afternoon!

Day 21 - Trek Thargang Nomad Camp 4750m or Himalaya View Camp

We'll have a leisurely morning as it's such a nice spot, and start off down the wide flood-plain heading towards the impressive Himalayan range ahead. More kyang spotting this morning in what we call 'kyang valley' about 1 1/2 hours from camp; we often first spot the 'alpha' male keeping watch for the herd of younger males and females, snorting and pawing as we approach, and then gathering the whole herd together and kicking up a trail of dust as they bolt by us, close by. We might also see Himalayan hare, pikas, voles and marmot, and there are many of high-altitude birds en route. The plain becomes soft and marshy as the river runs below it and flowers bloom abundantly; nearby we'll stop for lunch, about three hours from camp, on a grassy knoll. Past more grazing valleys and nomad encampments, we continue along the flood plains to our campsite, near a Ladakhi nomadic settlement. Most of the nomads are gone until the evening, but we might wander over to see if they have any fresh curd; one year Kim bought a wonderful blanket from these nomads, so worth a look around. Kyang also roam the nearby valleys, and over the next few days we should see many of these majestic creatures.

We might continue on another hour to 'Himalaya View Camp' which we discovered last year, a less windy spot with wonderful views and a pebbly, gurgling river beside the grassy banks.

Day 22 - Trek Lhatoo Gongma (Sunshine Camp) 4670m

Off towards another pass, but a small one this time, the Mani Chen La. Staying on the left of the river (we have to jump it from camp), we follow the pebbly, clear river which reflects the Himalayas in the calm of the morning. We either crest a few small plateaus, or stay along the river if it's low. From 'Himalaya View Camp' about 1 1/2 hours from camp it's only another half an hour of easy climbing to the Manechan La (4765m). We approach a doksa after the steep descent from the pass, and have to jump two streams and cross three plateaus as we continue down-valley. The large, rounded granite boulders and chunks of crystallized quartz indicate that the landscape is changing. We'll likely see more kyang at the lhatoo before camp. After a short day, we'll have lunch on the grassy plateau at a large, bubbling stream just across from camp to let the boys unload the horses which should arrive at around the same time that we do. There is a gurgling stream next to the dining tent, and if the sun is out it's a wonderful spot for bathing, so jump in after lunch.

Day 23 - Trek Kyangdom 4530m

Today it seems as if we drop off the edge of the world as we follow the rocky gorge bottom past nomad camps marked by stone circles and bleached sheep skulls. It is a wonderful 'river walk' day with kyang mirroring us as we trek down-valley; we stay on the left bank, or walk in the center of the valley on smooth river pebbles. The canyon seems to shut itself behind us at the large river bend to the left after nearly four hours, and just after this we might need our sandals if the river is high. There are some springs along the river if you need to fill your bottles. We have another hour until we climb on a slightly exposed trail for our first, spectacular view the turquoise Lake Tso Moriri, which stretches north from here for 26 kilometers. Below, past the sculptural twists and turns of the delta, is our campsite of Kyangdom, home to groups of Ladakhi nomads for a few months of the summer. We'll set up lunch here, in our perfect Himalayan cafe. Kyangdom, which translates as 'realm of the kyang' (kyang means roam in Ladakhi), actually does harbor many kyang in the southern delta. They often stand still and shimmering in the morning sun, seeming an illusion from a far away desert land ...

There is time to explore in the afternoon; watch the geese and ducks, spot the cormorants, photograph the lake, set up your camp chair in the sun and watch the world of the nomads go by. The Korzok-pa nomads often camp just across the streams from camp, and an excursion to one of their tents to buy some 'tsampa' (barley flour), 'yos' (half-popped barley) or 'chang' (barley beer) is a step back into time. At the end of the afternoon, the sheep, Pashmina goats and yaks return to the nomad camps, herded by wild-looking nomads on horseback, and later the sunset turns the lake shades of pink and orange ...

Day 24 - Trek Korzok Phu 4640m

We'll leave our lovely camp early as it's a long, hot trek along the eastern edge of Lake Tso Moriri to our camp at Korzok Phu. It's a wonderful day of walking along smooth rocks reflecting in the river, watching the geese, up and over hills where you get views of the clouds and snow-peaks to the west mirrored in the lake, next to sandy beaches and across a river or two after lunch, no sandals needed. Water is scarce until this point, so be prepared. After lunch next to some rounded, granite rocks on the bank of the lake, we jump these two run-off streams, continue past many mani walls and make one last climb to reach the small pass which affords us magnificent views of the renovated Korzok Gompa and the surrounding village. A further half hour brings us to Korzok, a popular camping spot as the road from Leh reaches here. We'll explore the gompa a bit, have a cup of tea, stock-up on beer for later and then continue on to our campsite 45 minute inland. This last bit of the day is lovely, following a well-used trail and a meandering stream, jumping from one dry green tussock to another, to reach our camp in the midst of all of the nomadic action. Welcome to Korzok Phu.

*** It's an 8-9 hour day in total, so if we're not able to make it in one day we might camp along the lake somewhere and arrive in Korzok Phu the next morning. Kim will give you the options.

Day 25 - Korzok Phu

Why not stay a day after all of this arduous trekking and enjoy this bustling, colorful settlement? Nomad boys cruise by on their donkeys if there isn't school that day, and many children stop by to see if there are any pens or pencils being handed out. Kim will lead the shopping expedition to several nomad tents in search of yak-hair blankets and a cup of salt butter tea ...

Other options: take a walk up the eastern hill for another great view of the lake, do some washing in the clear river or relax at the grassy campsite with a book and your camp chair.

Day 26 - Trek Changma 5210m

We leave early for the steep climb up to the 5450 meter Yalung Nyau La; it should take us about an hour of walking along the plateau to reach the approach to the pass, and then three more hours to crest the prayer-flag festooned pass. The weather can be changeable, so be ready for anything. The views back down to Tso Moriri are wonderful, and to the south of the pass are the Mentok (flower) Peaks. The descent is beautiful, past grazing areas and through grassy, narrow valleys and a slate-slab river which we'll need to jump a few times. We stop for lunch on a grassy knoll next to the river, kick off our shoes, and enjoy a deserved rest! We continue through the small settlement of Sherma and another called Barma, crossing a river in between (you can wade without shoes if you don't feel like carrying your sandals over the pass). One more river crossing, this time possibly jump-able, past Barma and we head up and over the relatively small pass ahead of us, Kartse La (4505 meters) and right down to our grassy campsite at Changma, our highest yet at 5210 meters. This valley is pure Tibet; open, grassy plateaus, wild, amazing views, big sky and nomads on horseback herding their sheep.

*** Again, if it's too long a day we can stop between Sherma and Barma.

Day 27 - Trek Rajung Karu 4880m

A short but beautiful day, starting with a two hour trek up the wide open 'Tibetan' plateau, with marmots and pikas popping their heads out of their holes to see who is passing, walking through herd of wild-looking yaks and dri (female yaks) with their young frolicking by their sides. The high route back to the valley we took to Tso Moriri is visible at the upper left side of the valley. We follow a winding, crystal clear stream for most of the way up to the pass, and eventually veer to the right to ascend the Kyamayuri La (5430 meters), an easy ascent. At the prayer flags at the top of the pass we finally get a view of Tso Kar Lake below us, and the trail leading down to it. The descent to camp will take us about 2 hours, and en route we'll pass by many nomadic encampments with their Tibetan mastiffs chained to a stick in the ground, hopefully tightly. More kyang in this green valley. Again, we follow the river to our camp at Rajung Karu, set up, have lunch and enjoy the rest of the afternoon.

Day 28 - Trek Tso Kar Lake 4560m

Our last trekking day, with a wonderful destination. It will take us 2 hours to reach the Horlam Kongka La (4950 meters), and we'll have a river crossing first. More nomad camps, more grassy tussocks, and an easy ascent of the rounded saddle for closer views of Tso Kar. The descent isn't the most interesting, passing through the settlement of Nuruchen with its supply posts, but our campsite is spectacular, so we'll probably wait to have lunch there. We camp at a 'village' called Riyul, although there probably won't be anyone around. Our horses will be grazing happily on this rich grass, though.

Tso Kar Lake is the 'salt lake' of Rupshu, previously the site of large salt excavations by the Rupshu-pa nomads, a section of the lake given to each group each year when the salt trade between Tibet and the lower hills was thriving (after the border with China was closed in 1959). Today, Tso Kar Lake is not as salty as it previously was, and the salt trade has diminished in importance because if the introduction of iodized and subsidized Indian salt. There is a small Tibetan village to the north of the lake called Tukje with an old gompa; most of the people of Tso Kar lake are Tibet semi-nomadic people who spend the winters in their villages at the lake.

Take a walk down to the lake in the afternoon to try the salt, but watch the bogs ...

Day 29 - Drive Leh

The trek is finished, and we'll relax in our jeeps and enjoy the spectacular 5 hour drive through Rupshu and the Indus Valley along the Manali - Leh highway; a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back at the Shynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori food and cold beers are not far away at the Ibex or Summer Harvest.

Day 30 - Leh

One last day in our favorite Central Asian capital; we can finish up our shopping, visit some of the parts of Leh which we didn't have time to see at the start of the trek, or sit in the garden of the Shynam Hotel and relax. We'll meet for our last dinner together in the evening, and celebrate an incredible journey through the nomadic regions of 'old Tibet'!

Day 31 - Fly Delhi. Depart

We are up early for our Jet Air flight back to Delhi; you'll have spectacular views of Ladakh, the many ranges of mountains and the Indus Valley on the way back. You'll be met at Delhi airport by Dhruv travels and taken to the hotel to store your bags for the afternoon, to the international airport for your departure, or where ever else you chose to go for the afternoon. You could fly out of Delhi later in this day; most flights are at night and you should be back in Delhi by mid-morning to noon.

If you have successive international flights that are not all part of the same ticket or following domestic flights we suggest planning more cautiously and departing tomorrow. Let us know if you need us to book an extra room for the night.

Jullay!

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