Kanchenjunga - Green Lake exploratory

Sikkim lies at the far eastern end of the Himalaya, a former independent kingdom which has only been part of India since 1975. Sandwiched between Nepal, Tibet, and Bhutan, its history and people, like all the Himalayan Kingdoms we visit, has a variety of cultures and ethnic groups which are a result of its position on both trade and pilgrimage routes.

The far north of Sikkim is an area rich in Himalayan history and myth; all the early attempts to climb Kanchenjunga passed this way, and our route traverses north Sikkim from the Lachung to the Lachen valleys before following the classic expedition route along the Zema glacier to the stunning views of Kanchenjunga and other mythical peaks above Green Lake.

On our return we take another remote and little trekked route, over the 5000m Kishong La pass to the Tholung valley with its ancient monastery, before driving to Darjeeling and a night in the Raj era Windamere hotel.

For newcomers and Himalayan veterans alike, this trek has it all.

Outline Itinerary

Trekkers Say

The Dzo in the snow, the glowing crimson Himalaya, the Nutella, the spoon, comparing Patagucci gear, the camaraderie, the altitude, Csoma, Moorecroft, the fish tika, Windermere "How was the expedition, Sir?", "I shot a moose..." – so many marvellous moments. Thanks so much, for helping put together another fabulous trek.

John S, Sikkim Kanchenjunga 2007 lead by Joel

Thanks again for a good trek – you really seem to have a terrific knack at allowing independence on treks but also stepping in and being supportive/decisive when needed. I must admit, I was worried about doing the group gig as I’m a bit of an independent wanderer, but now would have absolutely no hesitation booking on another of your group trips. Hopefully/probably/god willing/if my stars say so/if I haven’t been eaten by a koala etc etc ...in ‘09.

Gaye Kittel, Nanda Devi trek 2007 led by Joel & Lobsang

Fitness and trekking experience

We are asked many questions about fitness levels for the treks and our guidelines are basically that you should be healthy, active, adventurous and spend time in the outdoors. Past trekking experience isn't necessary, although it will help you understand what a 'trek' involves. The most important factor for enjoying the trek is a positive attitude, and a sense of humor.

Your leaders - Joel and Tega

Joel has been leading treks in the Himalaya for many years, and first trekked in Sikkim in 1988; he returned in 2006, and has led four treks since then as part of his mission to explore new regions. Tega of Marco Polo Sikkim is from a Lachenpa family, and is an incredible blend of proactive and sensitive leader and Sikkim scholar.

Early winter trek conditions

November and December are the driest months of the year here, but it is still possible for it to snow. You do have to be prepared then, for some walking in cold and snowy conditions; we are prepared for the cold with a heated dining tent, four season member tents and thick mattresses - you must be sure to have winter walking boots, gaiters, water and windproof pants, and of course a four season sleeping bag and good down jacket. There will be a winter trekking gear list soon.

Detailed itinerary

Note that the trekking itinerary and campsites may vary slightly depending on trail and weather conditions and the various trekkers' acclimatization rate.

Day 1 - Arrive Calcutta

Joel will be on hand to meet you in the vast and teeming very Indian city of Calcutta; we drive to our Raj era hotel, the Fairlawn in Sudder street, and over dinner discuss the finer details of our adventure.

Day 2 - Fly Bagdogra, drive Kalimpong

An early start for our flight across the plains of NW India until we land in the relative coolness of Bagdogra, the gateway to the Eastern Himalaya. We are met by our guide, Tega, who comes from the area we are trekking through; we have a five hour drive to our hotel in Kalimpong, the famous Himalayan hotel run by descendants of the much loved 19th century trade agent, David Macdonald. Tega will join us for dinner and talk us through the early days of our adventure.

Day 3 - Drive Punnee 3400m

Up and away by 6AM for a fairly long drive to North Sikkim, an area only recently opened to tourists - we follow the course of the river that is sacred to the Sikkimese, the Teesta, and we leave early to enjoy the wonderful forested hillsides, the Himalaya on the horizon, for our first destination, the Lachung valley; North Sikkim is divided into two valleys, home of the Lachenpa and Lachungpa, descendants of seven families that came from Bhutan in the 16th century. We will be traversing both valleys and the great difference in their character will become apparent; the Lachung is wide and sunny, and perfect for cultivation, and the Lachen is narrower but with easier access to the high grazing of Tibet, even now the Lachenpa having over 9,000 head of yak. Our camp for the night is at the old British built forest bungalow at Punnee; our staff will take over the kitchen, and we camp outside. Here at 3400m it is appreciably chillier and you will feel the altitude - vital to take it easy and drink lots of water. After dinner, a stroll through the woods or simply watch the last of the sun on Donkya peak (6900m) up valley, one of the many remote and unclimbed peaks all around.

Day 4 - Acclimatization day at Punnee 3400m

After a leisurely breakfast we take a walk to the small peaks to our west; we have a packed lunch and our aim is to climb at least 400m to get our bodies in shape for what lies ahead; we will be back by early afternoon. so still plenty of time to enjoy the o so classic old British feel of our campsite.

Day 5 - Trek to Tsetang 4050m

A short drive takes us to our road head, the staircase that leads up to our next camp at Tsetang. the views across the valley are truly awesome, and you should take time to look at them, as the slower you climb, the better! It takes less then two hours to our camp among delightful pastures in sight of our first pass, the Lhaba la, which Joel and Tega will point out to you. It may feel that we have done nothing, but an afternoon spent pottering around the beautiful landscape is well spent as we acclimatize, or perhaps a climb above camp to look at the array of peaks to north and east; Sengkamo, lakokhangse, and Burungkhangse, all 6000m plus.

Day 6 - Trek to Lake camp 4500m

Tucked away below our pass at 4500m is a small camp by a glacial lake, one of many hidden gems on this trek - it will only, again, be an easy day, but we will move up to camp here by noon, ready for our first pass crossing next day.

Day 7 - Trek to Plain of the Gods camp 4200m

A beautiful day, and away early to really enjoy it; after a long traverse around a hillside, our route takes us over successive plateaus (3 in all ) until we turn a corner, and come upon the flags that mark the top quite unexpectedly. Wonderful views back, and there ahead is the unmistakable bulk of the 'Treasure House of the Snows', Kanchenjunga, a good week ahead of us, but still impressive; from here we can also make out the snowfields leading to our next pass and our first exploratory section. The name of our camp literally translates as 'Plain of the gods' and it is truly, stunningly lovely, with exquisite sunsets. We camp slightly above the plain, near the fresh springs that meander across it.

Days 8 & 9 Exploratory to Zema 3070m

Our route used to be followed by villagers going between the two valleys to trade - we will point out the wall below the pass that is the ancient dividing line - but few people take it now; Tega and his brother are exploring it this spring in preparation for our visit, but we do now there is a 5400m pass in there, and quite a lot of what the local people call 'jungle', thick Rhododendron forest.

Day 10 - Trek to Tallem 3240m

We are altitude fit from our pass crossings now, and today is an easy one as we move up the Zema Chu towards its confluence with the Lhonak Chu. The going will probably be quite tough as the trail has not been fully rebuilt since the huge landslides in the 2007 monsoon, but 4/5 hours should have us in our camp.

Day 11 - Trek to Jackchen 3430m

Crossing and re crossing streams, finding our way through the dense Sikkimese forest, and negotiating the many landslips; the land here is all in motion and there can only be a rough estimate of how long our day will be before we arrive in camp. The views as we ascend get increasingly better, and we are now on the route of so many expeditions, from the Germans in the 1930s to the Indians in the 1970s.

Day 12 - Trek to Yabuk 4040m

Now we are on higher ground again, nearing the glacier snout, and it can get cold and windy today as we follow the trail; those gloves, fleece hat and wind proofs always to hand. It is about 8km to our beautiful camp at Yabuk, and the high mountain scenery is some of the best in the Himalaya.

Day 13 - Trek to Rest Camp 4500m

We move up valley to an even more spectacular camp - here we will rest and explore.

Day 14 - At rest Camp 4500m

A full day to enjoy the views and walks around this high alpine camp. Siniolchu, Kanchenjunga, Nepal peak; incredible views from our camp in this lovely spot. Here the Germans had their rest camp in the 30s, the last spot where firewood was available, and here we have two nights to enjoy.

Day 15 - Trek to Green lake 4900m

Worth every minute of it - today is a day of days, an easy three hours to camp among the Moraines, but stunning views of the peaks all around - the south and east faces of Kanchenjunga, Simvu, and others. Green lake, like Gorak Shep in Nepal, was once a glacial lake, now long gone. After lunch take a walk to further views, or just kick back and take it all in.

Day 16 - Explore from Green lake 4900m

There are many options today from this remote and little visited camp; Tega and Joel will go through them all, and we have a whole day to explore the glaciers and viewpoints all around. In two words, Trek Heaven.

Day 17 - Trek to Yabuk 4040m

We have a couple of days of retracing our steps, first, then, to Yabuk.

Day 18 - Trek to Jackchen 3430m

And again, down to Jackchen.

Day 19 - 22 Exploratory Tholung valley

Another gem - we take time to climb away from the Zema Chu to the Kishong La pass at 5000m plus, into the Tholung valley, where we visit one of the oldest Monasteries in the Himalaya. Many trekkers visit the Kishong la as a day trek, but we use it to exit the region in true style.

Days 23 - 24 Spare days

Trails wash out, and the bureaucracy in North Sikkim is truly Indian!

Day 25 - Drive Darjeeling

The only way to end a trek in this region is in classic style, with a drive along the Teesta to Darjeeling, the wonderful hill station set among tea plantations, established by the British, and of course, to stay at the Windamere hotel. We will arrive in time for lunch, then visit the Himalayan mountaineering institute, before returning as the excellent staff make up our coal fires. You may want to bring something smart for cocktails at six...

Day 26 - Drive Bagdogra & Fly Calcutta

Back to the plains, back to the world. After a great breakfast in the sunny Windamere dining room, a drive through the tea plantations to our flight to Calcutta.

Day 27 - Depart

We drive you to the airport and journeys end...thank you for your company!

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