The Great Himalayan Traverse

The Caravan series continues across Ladakh and Spiti

'I could have spent weeks idling away my time under the apricot trees in the clear warm sunlight of central Asia'
Fitzroy Maclean, 'A Person From England'

We journey through the high, wild reaches of the Chang Tang, the remote plateau in East Ladakh first settled by Tibetan nomads over one thousand years ago. After exploring the monasteries of the Indus valley around the ancient capital of the region, we trek in easy stages through the beautiful grasslands surrounding the turquoise lake Tso Moriri at 4500m, camping in delightful locations.

After several days spent acclimatizing and exploring the area, we take a remote route towards the Great Himalayan Barrier, slowly ascending to our glacier camp before the high point of the trek, the demanding crossing of the 5700m Parang La pass. From there we descend into what is almost a different world, the old kingdom of Spiti, for centuries the last outpost of Tibetan Buddhism before the traveler encountered the dusty plains of India.

To finish our journey, we trek through the wild Pin Valley to our second and last pass, the 5349m Pin Parvati, where we pass from an ancient Buddhist Kingdom to an ancient Hindu one, the lush forested valley of Parvati, home of the Goddess. We take time to enjoy the pastures and forests of this gorgeous valley, before an overnight drive to Delhi and journeys end.

This trek is everything a Himalayan odyssey should be - high plateau, peaks, glaciers, passes, dense forest, and fascinating and diverse cultures. There are some demanding days, but the sense of journey as you move from the sublimely beautiful Tibetan world of the Himalaya to the colors and bustle of modern Indian is overwhelming.

Outline Itinerary

Trekkers say:

The trek was truly an experience of a lifetime, I really do not believe it could have gone any better, everything worked out perfectly. Your knowledge of the culture and the area is amazing and very inspiring. Furthermore the respect you show for your employees was gratifying and made everything very harmonious. A heartfelt thanks from all of us!

Per Gullestrup, Arne & families, India 2007

Detailed Itinerary

Note that although we try to follow the itinerary here, at times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on our trekkers' acclimatization rates.

Day 1- arrive Delhi

Joel will be at the airport to meet you, look for the Project-Himalaya sign. We drive to our hotel in Paharganj, the main bazaar of Delhi, and over dinner, discuss gear and our adventure.

Day 2 - Fly Leh 3550m

Up early and away in the muggy pre dawn heat to the airport, and then our spectacular flight across the great Himalayan barrier to Leh, the capital of Ladakh and the legendary destination of travelers from 16th century Jesuit missionaries to 20th century backpackers. The cool high altitude air is an incredible relief after Delhi's pollution. We have a short drive to our pleasant guest house and our second breakfast.

You will feel the altitude; a little dizziness, perhaps out of breath climbing the stairs of our guest house. After we have settled in, Joel will take you for a walk around the bazaars and backstreets of Leh - he enters his third decade of visiting Leh in 2008, knows some of its most fascinating corners, and will illuminate the Leh of the present with insights on Leh and Ladakh in past times. From crispy bread in the Muslim quarter to digging out old artifacts in antique shops, he is an encyclopedic and enthusiastic source of information. After perhaps a nap and a shower, we dine in the Tibetan kitchen, an excellent restaurant  where we talk over the next few days of our adventure.

Day 3 - Leh 3550m

We have a whole day to explore the monastic sites in the Indus valley, some of the most revered in the Buddhist world. We drive along the poplar shaded roads to Tikse, a functioning and thriving monastic community with a bustling school that contrasts wonderfully with hushed 500 year old prayer halls...and climb (slowly) to the roof for panoramic views along the Indus-fed barley fields below us in their summer greens, with beyond, the snow capped Stok range that waters them. Then on along the valley over a prayer flag bedecked bridge that has seen better days to an outpost of distant Bhutan, the 17th century Drukpa Stangnag monastery with its recently restored Dukhang (prayer hall) and views back to Tikse. There is more, and what we see depends on our energy levels as we acclimatize to life here on the roof of the world.

Day 4 - Alchi 3300m

After breakfast in the cafe of our choice, we grab some pastries from the bakery and head along the Indus the other way, on the road that follows the old trade route to Srinagar, past Spitok Monastery, climbing away to a viewpoint where we can look back to Leh nestling at the foot of the Ladakh range - a welcome view to ancient traders on the long trail from India. Then we descend to the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus, blue meeting green, before driving through the lovely oasis like small towns of Nimu and Basgo; we take it easy, with plenty of stops for pictures. Over to the left as we drive you can still pick out the crumbling chortens and piles of stones carved with 'Om mani padme hum' the Buddhist prayer, that marked the original caravan route.

After 3 hours driving we cross the Indus, and then we are in Alchi, site of the famous 1000 year old monastery but also a peaceful functioning village. Despite the tourists that arrive through the short summer, it is still a place with many tranquil corners among its barley fields and poplar groves. We are staying in the Zhimskang, with simple and clean rooms, and its own restaurant under walnut trees. After tea we will take a walk around the old monastery, taking our torches to illuminate the incredible murals on the walls. Alchi is one of the few monasteries surviving from the 'first spreading' of Buddhism from the south of India to Tibet, and the paintings are totally unique. The gompa setting alone is worth wandering through - a million miles from the noise of Delhi we have so recently left. And then dinner, and an early night - we are on the road early!

Day 5 -Drive Korzok 4500m

We will be away by six as we have a long drive - our duffels left with our staff yesterday to camp near the shores of Lake Tso Moriri, and today we join them. We have breakfast in Leh, again make the fresh bread run, and are on the Leh Manali highway by Ten. We drive parallel with the Stok range until Upshi, where we turn away from the classic backpacker route on the old high road to China, and soon the scenery changes as we drive through a series of stunning gorges. We pull over around Tindo for our picnic lunch, and at Mahe bridge present our passports and inner line permits. And then yet another change as we leave the poplar lined Indus to continue its course into old Tibet and we make gentle elevation through high pastures and lakes, soon seeing our first Tibetan nomad camps with their yak hair tents (rabos) and scruffy (but delightful) kids who always seem in a permanent state of excitement as our jeeps cruise past. These nomads have roamed the high plateau for centuries with their herds, and with the renewed interest in pashmina they have become relatively more wealthy; witness the jeeps outside some of the tents. Notwithstanding that, they are still landless people, with the Ladakhi nomads, cultural cousins but Indian citizens, slowly edging them out of some of their traditional grazing areas. Our first snowcapped mountains soon appear, and by four we are settling into our camp for two nights, Korzok Phu. Here we meet our crew, and you get to know your home for the next three weeks, our dining tent.

Day 6 - In Korzok 4500m

We have a full day here to rest and let our bodies get used to the elevation, for us Americans, 14760 feet; high! After breakfast (Joel's favorite choice, scrambled eggs with tomato, cheese, green chili and chorizo with fresh baked bread and fresh ground coffee) we head across to Korzok, a scruffy settlement with a wild west borderland feel to it - we take time to look over the monastery and look across the 26 km long lake Tso Moriri, then we take a long loop over the hillsides behind Korzok to a viewpoint at 5000m before back to camp for tea and biscuits. Every night Joel and Lobsang will go over the next days route, with reminders in the morning on pertinent points; stream crossings, availability of water, etc. In the evening last year it was warm enough to sit outside as the first stars appeared - read that book, star gaze, or simply perform that great Himalayan trekking art, for some hard to acquire but hard to shake once acquired; doing absolutely, completely nothing.

Day 7 - Trek Kyangdom 4450m

Every time we take this walk, we forget how very beautiful it is; the trail leads on a dirt road past the old guest house, and follows the lake shore. As we walk we see the lake changing moods - light, cloud, a gentle breeze, the colors and shadows constantly changing. As Joel will be ever reminding you, there is walking, and walking at altitude. On this first day, take it slow and easy, drink lots of water, and avoid the sun, wear that hat please. We have plenty of time to dawdle and watch Lobsang's impressive rock skimming skills on the lakeshore. A few hours out and our kitchen staff, Tenpa, Kunsang and Punsok will appear with their Tibetan - bandit meets Bollywood - snowboard dress sense, en route to set up camp and get the kettle on, then our horse caravan with kitchen boxes glinting in the afternoon sun - Caravan!

Lunch will be by the one stream en route, fresh bread, cheese, salad, fresh fruit. At lunch like clockwork our Zanskari staff always seem to appear; Stanzin, Norbu and Lobsang II earned their Himalayan kudos with us walking the Chadar, the frozen gorges of Ladakh, over many years. I always find it hard to recognize them in their summer gear. Over the next week you will come to know them all.

By mid afternoon the camp comes in sight, and a long hour always before we reach our brightly colored tents, either take off your shoes or wander around and try and jump the braided streams at the lakes end. Our camp is 'Kyangdom', literally, 'Kingdom of the asses' for the wild Tibetan ass (Kyang or Kiang) that roam here. The tents will be up, and tea is ready. Those mountains up valley are the Parilungbi range, which we cross soon.

Day 8 - Trek Norbu Sumdo 4400m

Today we actually lose elevation, climbing away through the abundant pastures at the end of the lake, and descending past nomad camps, the rock circles they pitch their tents over. In a surprisingly short time, our friend the lake fades from view behind us. Look for wild ass - sometimes a glimpse on the skyline, and if we are lucky a herd may be in the area; if they are, the male normally postures some distance in front of us to warn us off, snorting and pawing, and as we continue into their territory he will vanish and 'come back with his mates' as the British would say, all of them heading straight for us, then peeling off in perfect formation when they really seem like collision is imminent - an incredible experience, and one of many things I love about India is they protect their wildlife - the Kiang population is increasing, but the down side is they are now encroaching on the grazing of the nomads.

It takes about 4/5 hours to reach the camp we call Norbu Sumdo, actually a large area, within sight of the trail junction where you make the choice, Tibet in four days or Spiti in five. Decisions, decisions! Then camp and tea; and the sunsets from the small plateau above the camp are memorable.

Day 9 - Trek Umlung Camp 4700m

We need to move by seven today, as we have to cross the Parang Chu - the earlier we go, the easier it is. An hour from camp past the old Tibetan border post (keep away, the walls are crumbling!) we meet the river and change into sandals as Joel and Lobsang scout the best crossing point; we keep together please, it is not a dangerous river, up to the knees, but it can be fast. Then we dry out, and head off, straight towards the Himalaya!

The trail climbs up and down above the wide river bed, and recently some of our horsemen improved it with some impressive engineering. We are making gentle elevation today, and take plenty of time to stretch out and rest as we progress through old nomad camps, one of which we will lunch in. We should be in camp by three, a place we have called 'rock camp' at times for the huge boulder we sometimes have the energy to climb and perch on. The stream here is clear and fresh, a lovely location for a wash.

Day 10/11 - Trek & rest at Lucky Camp 4850m

Now we are approaching the 5000m mark, and as we do, the scenery gets wilder and more remote, with the trail climbing high at times above the riverbed - take care to pay attention on these remote trails. You can feel the air is getting thinner and the snow peaks are appreciably nearer. After three hours walking we climb onto a wide plateau and pass through some scattered trekking camps, before some trail damage brought down in the 2004 rains; again, care on loose rocks is needed here. We drop off the plateau past a side valley and negotiate a few easy river crossings before reaching our delightful camp, some pastures below a small plateau from where the views are even better. Time to set up that tent, as we have two nights here, with a whole day to explore the wild valleys all around, or simply to rest and take in the scenery and wait for lunch. Again, our progress up valley is dictated by how well we are acclimatizing.

Day 12 - Trek Glacier Camp 4900m

Across the high plateau with if possible, the view getting even wilder. Where we camp today depends on where the water is, and where the camp is...yes, glaciers move and so do the camps. This stage can be cold and windy, or tranquil and warm, so you have to plan for anything when you pack that daypack. An hour up we meet our first river, then three hours on we start the first real appreciable, as opposed to gentle ascent, where we cross two or three rivers; these move fast at times, so again, please follow Lobsang and Joel's directions, they have passed this way many times.  On across old moraine with the trail climbing above the river to a series of camps at the foot of the glacier where we normally camp. Here the our horsemen dish out dried food to the horses who definitely do not like this wild and rocky place; at intervals they will try and escape back down valley. If you have not pulled out the down jacket, now is the time; looking up at sunset on tomorrows pass, to quote Eric Newby, "you wanted central Asia, and you got it!"

Day 13 - Over Parang La 5700m to Chicken Run Camp 4500m

A day of days, a real Himalayan trekking day, we need to be up in the pre dawn chill and on the trail, what there is of it, by seven at the latest. The trail crosses icy glacier streams and in 2007 wended up to the left of the glacier onto a trail that zig zags to a high point where you can look back down to our camp and watch the horses moving up. At some point we cross onto the glacier again, and head past the impressive ice wall to the distant notch that is the pass. It normally takes about 5/6 hours to reach the pass, where we shout our thanks to the Gods, string our prayer flags, and look over the serrated ridges of Spiti.

And you thought it was all over? Joel will have reminded you to bring your trekking poles, as the two hour descent to the bottom of the valley is knee punishing. We lunch at the bottom by a sparkling river, then follow a tortuous gorge, crossing after an hour to take a steep climb to our much needed camp in the pastures named after a memorable 2000 chicken dinner. All in, perhaps a 9-10 hour day.

Day 14 - Trek Kibber 4205m

An easy day, we should be in Kibber by noon, walking across open flower bedecked hillsides breathing the heather scented air joyfully after all the rock and snow. We normally rest and bathe our feet in the stream we crossed yesterday, then climb to Kibber where we camp by one of the friendly lodges - and then there is beer, and mutton curry, and hot showers, and rest your eyes on what some call civilization, our first village for over a week. Here we bid goodbye to our horses, as for the next stage we use our team of Nepali porters from Manali, who have adventured with us the length of the Himalaya.

Day 15 - Drive to Mud & trek Syabang 3900m

A delightful drive through monument valley like scenery takes us to Mud village, at the foot of the Pin valley, a wildlife reserve. Here we lunch and Lobsang spends a happy hour chivvying our porters with their loads to get moving. Soon we are on the road, a dirt trail, the Dhaula Dhar range above and around us; wildflower bedecked piles of Mani stones line the trails, and we have a relatively short walk to our camp, a series of green pastures. Get used to the porters; it really is like trekking with a bunch of children, they are helpful and very joyful in their approach to life, and monitor their singing carefully - at low elevations it is joyful and loud, getting hushed with elevation as if nervous of disturbing the Gods that reside in the high valleys.

Day 16 - Trek Shepherd Camp 4600m

We follow the trail through shepherd camps; the Gaddi shepherds move up here from the Kulu valley in spring, and their camps and flocks are all around, with dogs that are normally friendly, just be cautious in approaching them - keep a rock to hand to scare them off if they seem aggressive (just lob it high over their head). Do take a look at their collars; huge and spiked so that the snow leopards and wolves that roam these valleys cannot get a grip on their neck. The trail is clear and easy for a while, then crosses a series of side streams that take some care before moving up a series of spectacular snow bridges to our camp at the foot of the pass.

Day 17 - Trek Pass High Camp 4900m

On to a glacier again, wending up steep moraine past glacial lakes with ever better views down valley to the green pastures and up valley to the snows. Our camp is on a plateau as high as we can push it, depending on where the snow and rocks make it easiest; and of course, we have to find space not just for us but for the porter tents; this camp is normally one of the coldest on the trek, and we can have snow. We will spend time finding the best spots, clear some tent spaces, and Hunker down for the night.

Day 18 - Over Pin Parvati pass to Parvati Valley High Camp 4550m

Away by seven or earlier as we have to cross snow and the earlier, the firmer. The trail crosses old crevasses and crumbling moraine, wending around old rubble which takes a lot of trail finding, but we should be on the pass with its spectacular views of both the Pir Panjal and the Great Himalayan barrier by late morning, again giving thanks to the Gods on top...the route down across snow and glacier varies from year to year, but it is never technical, just tiring, especially if the sun is out.

By mid afternoon we should be on the sandy plateau that goes by the name of a campsite, with the most incredible views - the early British who explored here named the peaks, so you have a 'Kulu Eiger' down valley. It is cold here, but the views are just so worth it.

Day 19 - Trek Manatali Lake 4070m

Down and more down as we head into the valleys. After crossing the plateau we have a steep descent to the green valley below. We reach it after a 300m scramble, and then spend the rest of the day spotting the few cairns that lead us down to the few campsites by this lake, sacred to local Hindus.

Day 20 - Trek Pandey Bridge Camp 3400m

Slowly we work our way down the moraine, crossing and re crossing icy streams. We are aiming for a camp by the 'Pandey Bridge' a bridge over the Parvati river the Gaddis build every summer when they move up valley - a rock staircase built to the top, and down the other side of, a massive boulder in mid river; incredible to climb this above the crashing river with the wind gusting; all around are the flower petals the shepherds scatter as offerings to Parvati. Finally, we are down into green pastures, in late June scattered with wildflowers.

Day 21 - Trek Bhojtunda Camp 3200m

At last, trees...silver birch as we wend down, possibly crossing the river on a cable car; the trail changes yearly. It is now a lot warmer, and can be humid - and rain showers in June are common as we descend; look out for wild strawberries among the rocks. The camp on a grassy alp above the Parvati is a delight, and here the porters will probably get hold of some local hooch and light a fire. If it is clear, enjoy the feeling of sleeping with the tent door pinned back as the stars wheel overhead.

Day 22 - Spare Trek Day

Trails wash out, glaciers move; A spare day for those eventualities.

Day 23 - Trek Pulga & drive Manali

We leave at six, to fully enjoy this day of days, sadly our last on the trail. Crashing waterfalls, shepherds with their flocks, pine, deodar and maple forest, a world away from the high places of Tibet that we have journeyed from in the last days. To sit and rest your back against a tree is a moment to savor!

It will take us about six hours to descend on clear trails through forest and lush green pastures to the road head where our drivers await, then a two hour drive to our classic alpine style hotel in Manali, the Mayflower. Then dinner in Johnsons Cafe to say goodbye to our wonderful staff.

Day 24 - Overnight Bus Delhi

'The Volvo' as the locals call it, a comfy bus we have pre booked. We take snacks, and pack your earplugs, unless you enjoy the latest Bollywood musical. We should be pulling into Delhi by early morning and time to grab a shower and head to the Imperial Hotel for their incredible buffet breakfast.

Day 25 - Tuesday 1st July - Depart

We drive you to the airport for your flight - goodbye for now!

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