Hidden Ladakh - an introductory trek

"There is something fine in the dash of a torrent and the wildness of a mountain desert"
George Trebeck on Ladakh, 1820

Ladakh in summer is as near Himalayan heaven as you can get; after a brutally cold winter with passes and valleys hushed by heavy snow, summer is alive with running water everywhere as the snow that cloaked the sacred summits irrigates the barley fields and brings life to the oasis like villages.

This trek encapsulates all we love about this stunning Buddhist Kingdom in the Sky, packed into a short trek, ideally suited to first timers both in India and the Himalaya. Beautiful hilltop monasteries where ochre clad monks follow a way of life unchanged for centuries; villages where daily life is totally in time with the cycle of the seasons; beautiful campsites in remote locations, and above all, the warmth of the welcome of the Ladakhi people.

After time exploring the old monastic sites and hilltop forts of the Indus valley from our comfortable hotel in Leh, we head down to our second base, the lovely village of Alchi, sitting on a plateau on a bend of the Indus. Here we have two nights in a heavenly guesthouse - the Zhimskang, with wide windows looking out onto the ripening barley fields. Alchi is known as the site of one of the oldest monasteries on our planet, but few of the day trippers from Leh get to experience its tranquil calm as evening descends on the Indus and we dine under apricot and walnut trees in the garden of our hotel.

And so to the hills - we cross the Zanskar river via a cable car, and trek in easy stages on the traditional Markha valley route to the Ganda La pass, where we turn away from the classic route over an unnamed pass and descend back to the Zanskar via the remote and rarely visited hamlet of Choksti.

We then take a wild route to the remote Gompas of Sumdha Chenmo and Sumdha Chungun and cross the Stakspi La to our start point, Alchi.

This is an ideal introductory to Himalayan trekking, with excellent acclimatization -  the best of Ladakh with the best and most experienced guides and staff, food, and gear.

Outline Itinerary

Trekkers say:

The trek was truly an experience of a lifetime, I really do not believe it could have gone any better, everything worked out perfectly. Your knowledge of the culture and the area is amazing and very inspiring. Furthermore the respect you show for your employees was gratifying and made everything very harmonious. A heartfelt thanks from all of us!

Per Gullestrup, Arne & families, India 2007

Detailed Itinerary

Note that although we try to follow the itinerary here, at times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on our trekkers' acclimatization rates.

Day 1- arrive Delhi

One of our drivers will be at the airport to meet you, look for the Project-Himalaya sign. Then a drive to our hotel in Paharganj, the main bazaar of Delhi, and over dinner, discuss gear and our adventure.

Day 2 - Fly Leh 3550m

Up early and away in the muggy pre dawn heat to the airport, and then our spectacular flight across the great Himalayan barrier to Leh, the capital of Ladakh and the legendary destination of travelers from 16th century Jesuit missionaries to 20th century backpackers. The cool high altitude air is an incredible relief after Delhi's pollution. We have a short drive to our pleasant guest house and our second breakfast. You will feel the altitude; a little dizziness, perhaps out of breath climbing the stairs of our guest house. After we have settled in, Joel will take you for a walk around the bazaars and backstreets of Leh - he enters his third decade of visiting Leh in 2008, knows some of its most fascinating corners, and will illuminate the Leh of the present with insights on Leh and Ladakh in past times. From crispy bread in the Muslim quarter to digging out old artifacts in antique shops, he is an encyclopedic and enthusiastic source of information. After perhaps a nap and a shower, we dine in the Tibetan kitchen, an excellent restaurant  where we talk over the next few days of our adventure.

Day 3 - Leh 3550m

We have a whole day to explore the monastic sites in the Indus valley, some of the most revered in the Buddhist world. We drive along the Poplar shaded roads to Tikse, a functioning and thriving monastic community with a bustling school that contrasts wonderfully with hushed 500 year old prayer halls...and climb (slowly) to the roof for panoramic views along the Indus-fed barley fields below us in their summer greens, with beyond, the snow capped Stok range that waters them. Then on along the valley over a prayer flag bedecked bridge that has seen better days to an outpost of distant Bhutan, the 17th century Drukpa Stangnag monastery with its recently restored Dukhang (prayer hall) and views back to Tikse. There is more, and what we see depends on our energy levels as we acclimatize to life here on the roof of the world.

Day 4/5 - Alchi 3300m

After breakfast in the cafe of our choice, we grab some pastries from the bakery and head along the Indus the other way, on the road that follows the old trade route to Srinagar, past Spitok monastery, climbing away to a viewpoint where we can look back to Leh nestling at the foot of the Ladakh range - a welcome view to ancient traders on the long trail from India. Then we descend to the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus, blue meeting green, before driving through the lovely oasis like small towns of Nimu and Basgo; we take it easy, with plenty of stops for pictures. Over to the left as we drive you can still pick out the crumbling chortens and piles of stones carved with 'o Mani padme om' the Buddhist prayer, that marked the original caravan route. After 3 hours driving we cross the Indus, and then we are in Alchi, site of the famous 1000 year old monastery but also a peaceful functioning village. We are based in this pretty village for two nights, visiting the beautiful monastic sites in this part of the Indus valley as we acclimatize. Despite the tourists that arrive through the short summer, it is still a place with many tranquil corners among its barley fields and poplar groves. We are staying in the Zhimskang, with simple and clean rooms, and its own restaurant under walnut trees. After tea we will take a walk around the old monastery, taking our torches to illuminate the incredible murals on the walls. Alchi is one of the few monasteries surviving from the 'first spreading' of Buddhism from the south of India to Tibet, and the paintings are totally unique. The Gompa setting alone is worth wandering through - a million miles from the noise of Delhi we have so recently left. Over dinner in the garden restaurant, we can talk over the options for tomorrow.

Day 6 - Drive Chilling and trek Skiu 3300m

On the trail at last - we have a two hour drive to our roadhead at Chilling, where we cross the Zanskar river by cable car - our horses are waiting on the other side for us - and then we have a three hour walk to our first camp at Kiu. The sun can be quite hot on this stage, so be sure to cover up and drink lots of water. We are walking towards the junction of the Markha valley with the Zanskar gorge, climbing high above the river to a small pass at 3400m, the Kuki La, then descending to turn into the valley proper. We will have our picnic lunch - crisp fresh salad, cheese, fresh baked bread and fruit - in one of the many 'parachute cafes' set up by a local woman's co op; they take an old army parachute, and use it as an awning, selling soft drinks and local produce - try some of the 'yos', barleycorns that have been stir fried, great snack food. After two hours we reach Kiu; Kiu and Skiu were once separate villages, but they have more or less become one now. In August it is very pretty, fresh water sparkling everywhere, and magpies and hoopoes darting from shade to bright sun against the lush green barley fields. After arriving in the village centre it takes time to locate our camp - there are many scattered around, changing yearly. Once in camp, we introduce you to your personal tent, and to our group home, the dining tent, kitted out with a constant supply of hot water for drinks, comfy camp chairs, a compact Himalayan library and a solar charging system for your camera batteries, which Joel will normally set up shortly after arrival. This is your home, the only rule is no shoes. Kick back and relax!

Day 7 - Trek to Shingo Camp 3900m

Another very easy day distance wise, but walking at elevation is an art in itself, especially in the early days; we make elevation gently, passing crumbling Chortens towards the small village of Shingo, spread out above the Ganda Chu. There are a number of campsites spread along the valley here, and we will camp at the best. Then into the routine: tents up, afternoon tea, and relax; after lunch in camp we take a walk up valley, away from the main trail - the hillsides above are home to herds of blue sheep (Bharal) and spotting them is an art Lobsang has to a fine art.

Day 8 - Trek to Ganda camp 4400m

A slow climb today, away from the lower green valley to the higher pastures below open hillsides. We are heading for a camp as high as we can make it, in sight of the ridge on which the Ganda La pass sits. We trekked through several coming the other way in 2007, wild and high.

Day 9 - Trek to Pasture camp 4800m

Our first pass! A climb to a trail of sorts that links the Ganda La pass to our pass, an incredible path that is used only by locals, contouring around steep hillsides where blue sheep and ibex roam. The trail loops up to an airy ridge, and then climbs onto a wide plateau...views south to the main Himalayan barrier, and down across the Indus. We descend to some open pastures, where we lunch and then drop further to our spectacular camp, set on a hillside looking across the Zanskar range.

Day 10 - Trek to Choksti 3500m

All down, crossing beautiful pastures and meadows, from wide to narrow as we enter the gorge that leads to Choksti, probably the least visited village in the Himalaya. A tiny place shaded by poplar and willow with a small lake in the centre of the village, we camp in a small orchard and enjoy this delightful spot.

Day 11 - Trek to Sumdha Do 3300m

We descend again, following the Zanskar to a bridge that has seen better days to the dirt road on the other side, which we follow to the village of Sumdha Do, where we camp along the edge of the village barley fields. The fields are fringed with poplar and willow, a really tranquil spot to spend our afternoon.

Day 12 - Trek to Sumdha Chungun 3850m

Now we are in gorge country, following the narrow valley away from the Zanskar and towards our last pass. The sun bouncing off the crags can be harsh, but there are plenty of small streams and poplar groves to rest in. After a couple of hours we reach a trail junction marked by  prayer flags, where we turn away and climb to another remote settlement, Sumdha Chungun, with its small gompa affiliated to Alchi Monastery.

Day 13 - Trek to Stakspi High Camp 4700m

We trek to the base of our pass and then start our ascent, marveling at the views as we slowly ascend higher; we are aiming for a camp tucked away below the pass, and it should take four to five hours of hard climbing to reach it. If we have a clear night, a perfect time to catch some of the August meteor showers.

Day 14 - Trek to Alchi 3200m

Over the top! We head out early for the brief climb to the 4970m Stakspi La, two hours above our camp - and again, we are treated to stunning views, this time of the Ladakh range on the Indo Chinese border. Then we descend to the Indus valley and our starting point, Alchi, and our guest house - shade, hot showers, and cold beer. It really is a very lovely place to come home to!

Day 15 - Drive to Leh 3500m

We have come to know the Indus well now; wind down the windows and breathe in the scents of this beautiful kingdom on the roof of the world. Three hours driving brings us to Leh, our quiet guest house, and a goodbye dinner with our staff.

Day 16 - Spare Trek day

Trails and roads wash out, and we plan for any eventuality - thus a spare day.

Day 17 - Fly to Delhi and depart

Our flight to Delhi lands early in the morning, and most  international flights leave later in the day - goodbye for now!

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