Everest Pilgrimage 2008

'I decided I really like the look of these magnificent things'
Jan/John Morris describing the peaks, 'Coronation Everest'

The Everest region has some of the highest peaks on our planet, but more; the Sherpas who settled there centuries ago carved out a way of life beneath the peaks they believed Gods resided on, and to walk through their villages early in the morning as they burn juniper to chase away evil spirits with the glittering peaks all around is to be truly blessed.

These peaks are part of Sherpa life and mythology, and this trek is a pilgrimage to view these peaks, seeing them in different lights and moods - but more, we visit the gompas and monasteries the Sherpa's ("people from the east") have built over the 500 years since they have settled in their mountain sanctuary beneath the sacred peak of Khumbila.

During the trek we visit both the old gompas of the region, and the very best viewpoints, Gokyo Ri high above the turquoise Gokyo lakes, and the Renjo La (pass) with its very unique views.

This is a superb short introduction to the lovely trails of Nepal, with the best guides; Joel has been trekking and leading treks in the area for 20 years, and has an encyclopedic knowledge of the history and culture of the region, and his co-leader Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa is from a Khumjung family who run a lodge in the old yak herding area of Luza.

Outline Itinerary

Trekkers say:

Really Joel, you were the best. We (I) wouldn't have tolerated a group of people that were shying away from being where they were, and with whom.  On the other hand, I don't want to be a young dead Russian girl, traveling alone with no back up. So everything was perfect.

You of course were cantankerous , when you weren't being howlingly funny. I, of course, was my ever delightful, charming self, who wanted to shoot people indiscriminately when I'd had too much. Which was most of the time.

It was the best trip ever, Joel - and because of you.

Brenna (and Joe Stein), Everest Gokyo 2006 lead by Joel

I have very much appreciated what a wonderful guide you were and how much you enriched our experience of Nepal--how much you allowed us to experience Nepal- by putting us in it instead of putting yourself between us and the experience.

We're back home and already missing you and Nepal. Thanks again (and again) for your knowledge and good humor, introducing us to your friends, and -- above all -- for your companionship and generosity: it was a privilege and joy to share the journey.

(Brenna and) Joe Stein, Everest Gokyo 2006 lead by Joel

Detailed itinerary

Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m

Joel will be at the airport to meet you, look out for the 'Kathmandu Guest House' sign, and introduce you to the backpacker area our quiet hotel is in, Thamel. Over dinner we will go over the options for sightseeing the next day, and an overview of the first few days of our adventure; and at some point, Joel will also check over your trekking gear.

Day 2 - In Kathmandu

The Kathmandu valley for centuries was a mythical retreat high and remote from the outside world, barred to westerners until the 1940's; once out of Thamel, there are some beautiful tranquil corners reflecting its long Buddhist and Hindu past, and today Joel will either walk or taxi you around some of them; high on anyone's list is Boudhanath Stupa with its all seeing eyes looking down on this heart of tranquil Buddhism in the valley; and Bhaktapur, one of the old capitals of the valley, with its stunning mix of Buddhist and Hindu temples set in a small (and still functioning) town in the countryside outside Kathmandu.  By foot, bike, or taxi, we are guaranteed a real look at this remarkable medieval city masquerading as a 21st century one.

Day 3 - Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding 2660m

We need to be at the airport very early for our flight...sometimes they are on time, sometimes not; the Lukla lottery! We will get pastries from one of Thamel's many bakeries the night before, and pack a book in your hand luggage to while away any delays. Make sure any knives and lighters are in your check in luggage, along with your trek poles - and have your camera handy. Normally the announcements in the departure lounge are inaudible, then suddenly there is someone shouting our flight number, and off we go. Grab a seat on the left if you can for the best mountain views - but it does not really matter, no matter how many times I do this flight, its always a treat, watching the many terraced middle hills of this mountain kingdom roll past beneath the wings as the morning mist clears. We head east, crossing the Lamjura pass on the trekking route into the Khumbu; look closely below and you can pick out the trails as we skim over the top, and even pick out trekkers laboring up; then we drop into the valley we will be following soon, the Dudh Kosi, and soon we are turning in to land on the tiny Lukla runway. Improved in 2001, its still quite a thrilling experience. Then the door is open, and welcome to the Everest region! We breakfast at a friends lodge in the sun, while Joel and Lhakpa sort out our loads. Then we adjust our daypacks, and our journey begins. As we set off, remember we are at over 2500m - and there is walking - and walking at altitude. We are going high on this trek, and for your own pleasure and enjoyment, its essential that we acclimatize well; not just ascending the recommended altitude per day, but doing it slowly - and only you can do that! Drink lots of water, cover up from the sun, and lots of sun block. We trek through the fields that are just putting on their spring green through the villages of Thado Kosi and Ghat, and if the weather is good, get our first few of one of the giants, Kusum Kanaguru. It takes three hours easy walking to Phakding at 2660m, and en route Joel and Lhakpa will start your Khumbu education; prayer flags, Mani walls, a few of the basic words, and once settled in Ang Sani's lovely Shangri la Lodge, perhaps the cuisine; her potato pancakes are superb. You will soon get used to the trekking life, and come to love it; especially the best part of the day, sitting around the cozy stoves after dinner.

Day 4 - Trek to Monjo 2840m via Sano Gomila Gompa

Breakfast! The most important meal of the day. We bring fresh coffee along, and you may be awakened by the sound of the grinder struggling to do its best on the shonky voltage supply up here. Order whatever you wish from the menu - eggs, hash browns, pancakes, porridge, while Joel and Lhakpa remind you of any important points from last nights trek briefing. Our route today takes us away from the main trekking route, some 300m above the Dudh Kosi, to Sano Gomila Gompa. The Monastery has been restored over the last seven years, and has a growing community of young monks; and lovely views up valley to Thamserku peak. Along with Thame and Pangboche Gompas, it is home to a small idol that, the story goes, was carved from a sacred tree that once grew here; there are many  stories about it, which you will hear. We will have tea with the monks, then follow the valley onward, dropping again onto the main trail. With many stops for pictures, and of course, meeting the locals and drinking tea, we will be at Monjo for lunch. We stay in Chombi and Kalis Mount Kailash lodge, with probably the largest stove and the best rooms in any trekking region. Our hosts are some of many old friends on the route - Joel taught in Monjo school in 2000 & 2001, and we sponsor children from here - the afternoon is well spent visiting the school, or some of the children, before settling in for an evening by the fire.

Day 5 - Trek to Namche Bazaar 3450m

Our first big climb today, but more excitingly, our goal is the heart of the Sherpa region, the legendary Namche Bazaar. The Sherpas, originally from East Tibet, settled here 500 years ago, but first made their name as the ultimate mountain companions in the 19th century when they traveled to Darjeeling to look for work - and as they got to know the 'Sahibs' from Kellas around Kanchenjunga to Shipton and Tilman on Nanda Devi, they talked of their home, the Khumbu, where the sun always shone, the mountains and the people were more beautiful, and the beer stronger...and Namche, despite some development, is still a special place.

We first complete formalities as we pass into the national park, then cross one of three suspension bridges, first to the last village before Namche, Jorsale, then cross again and climb to the last bridge, now much the worse for wear; the older the bridges, the more prayer flags and Katags (ceremonial prayer scarves) they seem to acquire - note the amount on this one. Then we are on the 'Namche Hill' which everyone talks of. In fact it should take us just two hours to climb this, with, if the sky is clear, the first views of Everest peeking coyly over the Lhotse face. Today as we hit 3000m you may feel the first of what we call 'normal acclimatization symptoms' - a slight headache, breathlessness, and feeling totally exhausted as you put one foot in front of the other - one of our trekkers said 'like walking through honey' and the most important thing is to go as slow as your body is telling you to. It is always a great moment when a corner is turned, and there is Namche in its Ampitheatre. We pass through the entrance chorten, then into the streets lined with curio shops and hotels. We stay in the Tawa lodge in the centre of town, above their own in house bakery and email cafe, with the most delightful sunny rooms and delicious food; and of course it is also well known for its sunny terrace. Joel has been staying here since 1988, and the family are all friends.

From Namche there are peaks all around; Thamserku peeking from the east and to the south, and Kongde Ri to the south. After cakes and coffee, Joel will take you on a tour of Namche.  At first sight, It may seem with its email cafes and bakeries to be very much in the present, but look closer - from the prayer rooms many of the Sherpas have in their lodges you may hear the sound of horns as a Puja takes place; the older Sherpas can still be seen making sacred Koras and counting their prayer beads as the circle Namche Gompa; young monks scamper up valley to Tengboche Monastery; an ancient religion against a stunning backdrop.

Day 6 - In and around Namche

A day to help us acclimatize... we plan to leave early and trek along the old trade route to Thame and Tibet, to a little hidden jewel; Lauda monastery, another 500 year old gompa, well off the beaten track. It is quite a haul, up a switchback trail to 4100m, but an early start is worth it; the views of the peaks in the afternoon sun are stunning. The lama and nun who are usually in residence are always heart warmingly welcoming. Tea, lunch, and enjoy this tranquil spot, before we head back to Namche, showers and dinner. In 2004, Tor, a six foot five Norwegian, ships officer, a beer drinking Viking, and not the most sensitive of chaps, as he would be the first to admit, took it all in and said 'I could understand why you would want to be a monk in a place like this...'

Day 7 - Trek to Kyangjuma 3550m

Today we are heading first for Khumjung, where our co leader Lhakpa comes from; two hours of climbing with increasingly beautiful panoramas to the village sitting on its plateau at 4000m beneath the sacred peak of the Sherpas, Khumbila; when the Sherpas fled religious persecution in East Tibet over 500 years ago they were looking for a valley under a black peak - Khumbila was that peak. Khumjung is the oldest and largest settlement in the Everest region, with stunning views of Ama Dablam, one of the most striking of many beautiful peaks we are getting to know. We visit the old Monastery first, and for a small fee the monk will open the safe that holds the 'Yeti scalp', then we will have lunch at Lhakpa's house, before trekking down to Kyangjuma sitting astride the main trail to Everest base camp, run by our friends Tashi and Lhakpa. Their Ama Dablam lodge is really another home we have up here; great rooms, hosts, views, and food.

Day 8 - Trek to Phortse Tenga 3643m

Today we (hope) to breakfast in the sun and then head out by eight, climbing away to the small pass of Mong across hillsides with the loveliest mountain views; Ama Dablam and Taboche among them, clear and sharp in the early spring light. We quite often spot Himalayan Tahr on these hillsides, grazing, totally unafraid of humans.  We will stop at Mong, the collection of lodges seemingly perched in the sky on the pass, to have tea with friends who run one of the lodges here, before dropping steeply to the lodges set among trees at PhortseTenga at 3643m. Despite time to acclimatize, most find the hill up to Mong heavy going, thus we allow lots of time, and lots of liquid too, please. It is vital to down at least three liters of water a day.

Day 9 - Trek to Luza 4360m

By now we are in the trek routine and packing, breakfasting and getting on the trail is easy. We climb through dense Rhododendron forest on an easy trail, contouring around hillsides with the occasional tantalizing views of Himalayan giants up valley. Across the valley you can pick up a seemingly insane trail, an alternative way back from Gokyo, and the trail up to Phortse, our return route. We pass the long abandoned national park checkpoint, and the forest starts thinning out. Here occasionally the small musk deer is seen among the trees. The tree line is in Dole (4200m) which we reach in time for lunch in one of the many lodges that have sprung up over the years. The Gokyo valley is known for the most recent sighting of the mythical yeti, thus the Yeti Lodge here. After lunch, yet another lung bursting climb away from the village, and past a few small lodges scattered on the hillside to even better views of the famous Khumbu peaks, Kanteiga, Taboche and Cholatse. Then the last corner is turned and there is Luza, where our co leader has a lodge, the Kanteiga view, known over the years by many lucky trekkers for the warmth of the welcome and of its dining room. Lhakpas wife, Chomzi, will welcome us as the afternoon chill sets in, with soup and hot drinks. Sadly most trekkers pass this small village by for Machermo with its bigger lodges, an hours walk and  50m higher.  But it normally guarantees a quiet night for us here by the fire. It is always entertaining to watch Lhakpa and his wife bring in the yaks for the evening - like many Khumjung villagers that have lodges, they still bring them up valley to graze.

Day 10 - Trek to Gokyo 4800m

Gokyo is not far away, but nearly 500m higher, so we leave early to have lots of time; not just so we can go slow and easy, but to enjoy the truly spectacular views as we progress higher. We climb steeply out of Luza, where we take time to enjoy the mountain wall ahead, Cho Oyu, one of the 8000m giants in all her majesty on  the Nepal/Tibet border. The trail then drops into the settlement of Machermo. As with Luza, you can pick out the older buildings used by Khumjung villagers when they bring their yaks up - the original lodges in the valley were simply conversions (or not!) of these large huts. From Machermo we climb again, and looking up valley we can pick out the trail across the hillsides, past Pangla, and up to the left of the Terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier. At Pangla, a remote setting among stone walls, we stop for tea and gather our energy for the final push, moving up to the steep staircase that climbs to the first lake at 4710m, taking care as sometimes the streams that cross the trail can be frozen. From here it is 1/2 hours past the second lake to a point where the Gokyo 'resort' and the turquoise lake are spread before you - stunning. Way back in the late 80s, the word was going around among trekkers about Gokyo, its lakes and its views, and the many trekkers, most of them after a walk of two weeks from Jiri, slept in basic dorms where mice scampered over you as you dozed and basic food was dished out as you sat around a smoky yang dung fire - then in 1991 a glass hut and crew room built by a ballooning expedition was converted into a lodge, the development started, and the rest is history. Despite the lodges, Gokyo has a charm and friendliness lacking in some other teahouse developments, and our lodge, the Cho Oyu, run by the wonderful Dali Sherpa, has become very popular not by the size of its rooms or en suite bathrooms, but by her (and sadly, her late husbands) welcoming manner and generosity with portions - and yak dung on the stove. We have three nights here, and the first afternoon is spent settling in, perhaps a nap (Joel's choice!) browsing in the book and candy store, or if you feel energetic, a climb up the lateral moraine above town for the views.

Day 11-12 - At Gokyo 4800m

Our whole trip has been dedicated to getting us to this point, and now we can start our exploring - we climb to Gokyo Ri, 570m up the hill we can see from our lodge sunroom; leaving early for the best possible views, it takes about two hours, depending on how many pictures you stop to take - as you climb the view back to the lakes and down valley to the greener lower valley, plus of course Everest and the other peaks, is really one of the best on our planet; on top we shelter from the wind among the rocks and just take it all in; tea, coffee, biscuits we bring up, and normally stay and enjoy it for an hour or more. Then we string our prayer flags and descend for Lunch. Next day, the 4515m Renjo La, the pass that joins the old trade route to Tibet - Joel will have pointed it out on the way up - is a wonderful excursion; around the lake, then up a ridge to a plateau from where Everest and the lakes are spread before you, then a steep climb to the narrow ridge that is the pass. Most trekkers find this view better then Gokyo - you decide! At the end of both days there is the sunroom to relax in, the menu or that book to peruse, a warm stove, and fellow trekkers to compare stories with.

Day 13 -  Trek to Phortse 3800m

Breakfast by the stove and then away, to our next valley - most people love Gokyo, but rarely get a good nights sleep there, so the prospect of lower climes is welcome. We retrace our steps, really feeling, now well acclimatized, like we are walking on air, down to Luza for lunch with Chomzi, through Dole, and down to Phortse Tenga, over the Dudh Kosi, and just to cap off a long day, straight up 200m to Phortse, like Khumjung, an old Sherpa settlement that sees few trekkers. Our lodge, the Phortse Guest House, is an old favorite (check the dining room for Luna and Clif bars from expeditions before Joel gets them!), with the requisites we need - smiling host and warm stove.

Day 14 - Trek to Pangboche 3930m

Today's trail is always a treat; an incredible pathway in the sky that lots of trekkers pass on for the more demanding Cho La, it gives incredible views of the Khumbu from very different angles, contouring high above the Loboche Khola far below; do take care to stop when you want to gaze, though. We look down on ancient Tengboche Monastery and the small settlements in the forest beneath - one winter years ago we could hear the sounds of a Puja (Buddhist religious ceremony) drifting across from the nunnery in the forest below. And we see the peaks that have become friends from another angle; Kanteiga, Thamserku, and Ama Dablam high above the pastures and Rhododendron forests. After some four hours, we see the sparse woods around Pangboche, where we stay near the Gompa; only slightly off the beaten path, this village has a delightful feel to it, both children tumbling about the Mani stones, and village elders stopping to berate them lovingly as they circle the Monastery, prayer wheels in hand, giving it a welcoming air. In the early evening there will be a Puja for us to attend if the Lama is home.

Day 15 - Trek to Kyangjuma 3600m via Tengboche Monastery

Joel will be climbing to the hilltop above the village to leave offerings at a chorten built for an old friend who has passed on, and you are welcome to join him for the early morning views at this special place; then we are on the classic Everest expedition trail, rightly famed as one of the worlds most beautiful. First through lower Pangboche, then dropping to cross the Loboche Khola; the thick forest here is home to Himalayan Tahr and Musk deer, a hangover from the days when locals were not allowed to kill animals near sacred Tengboche; thus a higher population in wildlife developed. We climb through the tranquil forest, and can make out the trail we were on yesterday (we walked on that??) and will be in Tengboche in time for lunch at this famous viewpoint. Ed Hilary always relates the story of John Hunt, the leader of the British 1953 Everest expedition, climbing the hill to Tengboche; he stopped, took in the views, and said 'And people say there is no God'. After lunch we take a walk around the lovely old Monastery, rebuilt after a 1988 fire, and head down the trail back to the Dudh Kosi, crossing by one of the few wooden bridges left in the region. Then a climb brings us back to Tashi's lodge at Kyangjuma...once again, an evening of popcorn, warm stove and good food.

Day 16 - Trek to Monjo 2840m

Heading back now, but by a different route; the 'Namche Bends' as we contour around hillsides, stopping at the Chorten built to commemorate the 1953 expedition in 2003. Some two hours, and we look back and bid goodbye to Everest. We descend to Namche, where we have lunch and perhaps indulge in some last minute shopping, then down to Monjo and the Kailash lodge.

Day 17 - Trek to Lukla 2850m

Wandering down through the lower villages of the Khumbu is always lovely, watching life go on in the villages...drink our last sweet tea, smell the juniper in the air...by three we should be at our Lukla home and our last stove.

Day 18 - Fly to Kathmandu

Trekking with Joel there is one last ritual - no breakfast until Kathmandu! Our bags go down with our local agent, and we drink coffee and wait - then we get called, the flights come in, the engines roar, and we are climbing away from the end of the aircraft-carrier-on-a-hillside that is Lukla. By mid morning if you are really up for it we are in Mikes Breakfast, pancakes and sausage (!) straight from the airport. And in the evening, pizza in fire and ice.

Day 19 - Spare Day

Spent in Kathmandu if we fly on time, this is in case the flights are cancelled.

Day 20 - Depart

Trekking is addictive...see you again soon!

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