To Urdukas

We trek higher, and still not everyone is well

25 June - Paiyu rest day

This is a rest and acclimatization day, primarily the porters used to make a stack of chapattis for the journey higher, this being the last trees. They still do this although they are now given kerosene and stoves here and higher up for cooking. With a few of the team still sick with diarrhoea, it was never-the-less a welcome break.

Last time here I didn't even see Trango Towers, this time the views were wonderful, and then it clouded over to spare us the afternoon heat.

Perhaps the ! of the "Trekking!" on the previous page was a bit ambitious, the first few days were rather hard, brutally hot.

One of our more than 100 porters at Paiyu - Jamie

26 June - to Urdukas

Leaving Paiyu, we soon stepped onto the massive Baltoro Glacier. The change in character of the trek was immediate, sand giving way to rubble. We crossed it just above the snout. Down on the other side we traversed along the small and sandy ablation valley, and variously followed this to camp, nestled in the grassy hillside. It was a long and tough day and not all our porters made it. As few carry a torch, instead, apparently they sleep out where they can and then catch up the next morning; at least a few of them did, if not all.