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Our big peaks historyHow did we do? You can check here for a brief summary. + means successful. See the dispatches section for photos and expedition diaries from 2004 onwards. SafetyPlease also scrutinize our safety record. We have not had a death on any expedition, and no frostbite on full Project Himalaya expeditions. PH - means a full Project Himalaya expedition; Jamie was fully responsible for
the expedition You can also see our Previous treks, sections in About us and the Photo galleries.
Jamie McGuinness was the first kiwi (New Zealander) to summit Broad Peak - photo by Pick Parker 20082008 Everest Expedition - NepalGuide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to safety and success. Old: 13 Apr-9 June, 58 days --
Jamie McGuinness -- US$25,000 2007 Expeditions- Shishapangma - Tibet - PHWe know the mountain and it makes a great alternative to the crowded Cho Oyu in this season. Seriously, in the 2006 Fall season there were 550+ climbers and sherpas on Cho Oyu — think about that! We will be posting dispatches. 1 Sept-16 Oct, 46 days -- includes Lhasa --
Jamie McGuinness
-- US$10,500 Happening: follow our dispatches live from the mountain! Yuck, unkind weather lasted the whole expedition and so nobody summitted Shishapangma this season (and very few teams even summitted Cho Oyu). We tried, really tried, but the winds just did not stop. We had a really good and fun expedition all the same. - Shishapangma Skills Expedition - Tibet - PHThis is our training trip for Everest 2008. Sure, we attempt Shishapangma with good support, and we also discuss everything Everest and get you familiar with everything you need for Everest. 1 Sept-16 Oct, 46 days -- includes Lhasa -- Eric Remza with
Namgyal -- US$10,500 Everyone was included in the fun - and the bad winds. Building up to Everest showed some weaknesses with several climbers, but also Shishapangma didn't let us truly test everyone to 8000m. - Shishapangma BC-ABC servicesWe provide support you can trust with backup built it. 2 Sept-16 Oct, 45 days -- ask for details I really feel for Andrew Lock, who is back after several previous attempts on the mountain. As several others have written while sometimes Shishapangma's central summit is considered straightforward (and Andrew has climbed that), there really is only one true summit, the main, and that has challenged the best climbers time and time again. I also feel for Mark Hose, on his second attempt. Logistics proved tough on his first expedition last year. This time he seemed to have these sorted out, only to be thwarted at the same height by that weather. - Gasherbrum II Expedition 8035m - Pakistan - PHWe also have a support trek. Follow us live, see the dispatches... 18 June-11 Aug, 55 days --
Jamie McGuinness
-- US$8500 |
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The Gasherbrum II expedition team and crew |
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+ 2007 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH w DCXPGuide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, comprehensive and reliable with rescue planned for, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to safety and success. Follow our dispatches live from the mountain! 14 Apr-9 June, 57 days, includes Lhasa -- +Jamie McGuinness
with +Namgyal Sherpa -- US$24,500
5 June 2007, Kevin on the summit of Everest - photo by Ngima Chhiri - Lhakpa Ri 7045m & North Col 7010m - Tibet - PHIn the shadow of Everest we climb high! 15 Apr-6 or 9 May, 22 days -- expedition-style -- Jamie
McGuinness and Namgyal Sherpa -- US$4950 2006 Expeditions- Shishapangma Expedition 8027m - PHOur 2005 expedition was very successful with 6 out of 8 members up to the Central summit, and our Cho Oyu plus Shishapangma team also succeeding on both peaks. This season we want to climb the central summit and also some of us get to the main summit. Last year we were very close, this year we will succeed! Shishapangma is a straightforward mountain, with an exciting semi-technical summit day. Lhasa start: 30 Aug-15 Oct, 47 days -- Guide manager: Jamie McGuinness --
US$10,500 + $600 safety deposit Read the dispatches and see the photos. We didn't summit due to avalanche danger on summit day. + Shishapangma BC-ABC servicesWe provide support you can trust with backup built it. 2 Sept-15 Oct, 44 days -- ask for details Read the dispatches and see the photos. Iņaki climbed the Main summit by a new route in difficult conditions, making it his 11th 8000m summit, only three more to go. It was quite a climbing feat by any standards, and in atrocious conditions. + 2006 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH w DCXPThis year our service will be guided with full support, comprehensive and reliable with rescue planned for, plenty of oxygen, email and many other services too. We begin with a trek on the south side of Everest then head to Tibet 'late', but can still summit as early as 13 May - or as late as 6 June. 3 Apr-10 June, 69 days -- full support -- Guide-manager:
+Scott Woolums with assistance from +Jamie -- US$22,000 -- expedition full What an expedition - we had a great team of people, see our expedition dispatches. Our expedition had no injuries while there were nine deaths on the North Side. Our sherpa team helped with rescues but otherwise steered clear of trouble. + 2006 Everest Peace Expedition - EH and independentSpreading peace and religious tolerance around the world, sponsored by Panasonic Toughbooks and others. Yes, this will be a high profile expedition! Jamie is the climbing director, and the Atheist climber. We have a Palestinian climber, Ali Bushnaq and two Israelis, Dudu and Mica. Gautam, the Hindu on the team, hopes to become the first Indian to complete the seven summits. 4 Apr-10 June, 68 days -- Leader:
Lance Trumbull -- Climbing leader: + Jamie McGuinness See the Everest Peace Project website. Also see Jamie's dispatches relating to both expeditions, and great summit photos. **The DVD is out and it is inspiring, amazingly professional and a great tale - worth watching! See the EPP site. |
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Dawa (centre) and a happy team on top. |
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2005 Expeditions+ Shishapangma Expedition 8027m - PHNormal North-east ridge route. Jamie has been there twice before to the Central summit and really wants to get to true summit. We can do it, given good conditions! As an option Cho Oyu afterwards is possible. 4 Sep-18 Oct, 45 days -- Guide manager: ++Jamie McGuinness --
US$9600 + $600 safety deposit Most people summitted, very successful and safe - see the Shishapangma expedition dispatches.
Standing L-R: Tshering Dorje, Tawa, Jamie, Dorje, Scott Streett, Dawa Gelje,
Greg, Ed K, Pasang, Dr Warwick + Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PHCho Oyu is HIGH and often called 'easy' but there are plenty of significant challenges. Our guided expedition has strong support and good backup; if you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get and we provide it! 30 Aug-13 Oct, 45 days -- guide-assisted -- Guide-manager:
+ Andrew Lock -- US$10,000
L-R: Dawa Chhiri, Mike Norris, Seba Illingworth, Andrew Lock, Inigo and Billi Bierling + Cho Oyu expedition 8201m - Tibet FallGreat base camp support. Sure, you can find cheaper but we offer more safety and more flexibility, and once the differences are counted, we are almost comparable in price. 30 Aug-13 Oct, 45 days -- BC-ABC support -- US$5500 They climbed independently but shared base camp with Andrew's team. + Everest Expedition - Tibet - PHWe are offering comprehensive and reliable BC-ABC services with rescue planned for, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services too. See the dispatches for this expedition. 3/4 Apr-7 June, 65 days --
Jamie McGuinness --
US$10,000 + oxygen + sherpa Success! And more importantly, we lost no members to sickness, we had no frostbite, and were the only expedition to finish with one more member than we started with! Special thanks to Doctor Julian, who did such a great and much appreciated job both with our and for other teams.
Julian on top of the world - photo by Dawa 2004 Expeditions+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PH and support onlyWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our Fall climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort, but with more freedom than any other foreign company gives. We think innovatively and differently from most other companies and have the energy to get you there. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get. 5 Sep-19 Oct, 45 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $9900 See the dispatches for some great photos of the expedition.
Gurla Mandhata 7728m - TibetReal exploration! We acclimatize with a kora of Kailash, said to cleanse the sins of a lifetime, then head to the mountain. Apparently it is 'straightforward' but we don't know much else. 6 Sep-16 Oct --
Jamie McGuinness -- $7728 + Broad Peak 8046m - Pakistan - for another companyJamie guided Field Touring Alpine's Broad Peak Expedition. 16 June-5 Aug, 51 days. Service: professionally lead by Jamie McGuinness. Cost: $6150 - budget price, budget service. Success! See the dispatches for a diary of the expedition, also see their Karakorum8000 website. *Jamie was the first kiwi (New Zealander) to climb the true summit of Broad Peak!
+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PHWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our spring climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort, but with more freedom than any other foreign company gives. We think innovatively and differently from most other companies and have the energy to get you there. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get.
11 Apr-25 May, 45 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $9900 See dispatches for a diary of the expedition.
Dawa, Namgyal and Jamie on the summit of Cho Oyu - Photo by Catherine? 2003 Expeditions+ Shishapangma Expedition 8012m - PHJamie has been there before and this time is serious about getting to the true summit. We can do it! 31 Aug-11 Oct, 42 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $8800 Success! And we were the only commercial group that made it to the top. Naturally we were aiming for the true (Main) summit, but only made the 8008m Central summit, as did a bunch of notable mountaineers who REALLY, REALLY wanted to get that true summit. Conditions were too tough. Shishapangma is still waiting its first Australian summit. See the Shishapangma Expedition photo galleries of this trip.
With the summit cake: Richard, Temba, Dawa, Jamie (bearded), Pasang, Nicola, Phil (yellow jacket), Nigel (red jacket) + Everest Expedition 8848m - EHSee www.NIEverest.com - Success! And we have a photo gallery too. April-May Jamie organized the Nepal-Tibet side of things for Richard Dougan, Jamie also came along as climbing sherpa. Dave and Richard made an attempt on 22 May without sherpas and were turned back around the second step by frostbite. It was a nasty day to try to summit. Banjo and myself waited until the very last moment for some perfect weather and summitted 31 May 2003. See the Everest Expedition photo gallery series.
2002+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PHWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our spring climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort, but with more freedom than any other foreign company gives. We think innovatively and differently from most other companies and have the energy to get you there. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get... 14 Apr-28 May, 45 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $8800/€10,000 On the guided trip Tony came down with an unexpected but recurring problem and quickly decided when feeling sick there are better, more comfortable things to do in life. Myself and Dave summitted on 14 May, as did Tshering, our cook (who has also climbed Everest). We said we would run a guided expedition no matter how many bookings we got. We ran this expedition with only two bookings. If we say we are going, we will! We also provided BC-ABC support for a few people: David Lim tried Shishapangma, getting to approx 7700m in deep snow and on Cho Oyu, climbing on a difficult day, got to approx 7800m before the steep fixed ropes took their toll, a great effort by someone who only has power equivalent to one and a half legs. Allain and Caroline suffered some bad luck, first Caroline's face swelled badly after some sun and then Allain found it difficult to acclimatize. So while none of our ABC service clients summitted, we provided good, flexible service that everyone appreciated. 2001- Arun Treks & Expeditions USA Cho Oyu 8201m - PHA private group partly sponsored and writing for National Geographic Adventure magazine. The article appeared in the Oct-Nov 2002 issue, a story of Mike getting to know his sister - or rather not really getting to know her. Dates: Sept-early Oct. Guide-manager: Jamie McGuinness.
Route: standard. We tried, and tried, but the continuous high winds conspired against us (and AAI, Adventure Consultants, Mark and Kathy's team etc). So after eight nights at Camp 2 or so we descended for the best ABC party ever, read the article... - Noshaq Expedition 7492m - Pakistan - privateAfghanistan's highest mountain, but ours was one of the first serious attempts from the Pakistan side. Dates: late June-mid Aug. organized by Martin and Karl, I
simply joined the trip. We didn't summit. The account is is the Trip diaries section and there's a day by day itinerary too. + Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PHWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our spring climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get... All staff have worked/summitted on the mountain previously. Dates: 15 Apr - 29 May. Service: guide-assisted.
Guide-manager: +Jamie McGuinness. Cost: $8500. Success in challenging conditions! And no injuries. See the account... and some pictures. 2000+ Shishapangma 8012mAlthough we had plenty of expeditions on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma (successful and without injury), none required a western-managed service so Jamie climbed Shishapangma unsupported and alone. Dates: end of Aug - early Oct. +Jamie McGuinness. See the diary and there is also a quick day by day itinerary. 1999+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201mWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as big mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our expedition is for climbers who don't want a their hands held by a mountain guide the whole way. Dates: end of Aug - early Oct. +Jamie McGuinness. Amazingly enough we had several groups amounting to around 16 climbers. All expeditions summitted with at least several members. Jamie summited without sherpa support or kitchen. See the Controversy clouds diary.
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