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Gurla Mandhata expedition 7728m

Rising majestically south of the holy Mt Kailash, Gurla Mandata / Namo Nanyi is an enchanting but little-climbed peak.

Although first attempted in 1902, the first successful expedition was only in 1985, and since then it has been climbed perhaps seven times. There is no info on the internet.

We aim to explore and climb it, perhaps via a new route.

This is an ambitious expedition and you must be capable of belaying, fixing anchors and basic crevasse rescue. Technically it is not a difficult climb, but its size is intimidating; this is as real as it gets. This is a semi-commercial expedition, we will have a well setup base camp-ABC and work together on the mountain, so you don't have to climb independently. Please discuss your suitability. We have a very good chance of summitting!

This info sheet is a work in progress...

2007 - Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu 1350m

Flying into Kathmandu on a clear day is in itself an unforgettable experience, with the entire Nepalese Himalaya sprawling out below you. Welcome to Nepal! After passing through immigration downstairs you collect your baggage, load up your trolley and pass through customs inspection. Outside the airport building look for the Explore Himalaya representative among the throng. After transferring to the hotel and getting cleaned up there is a briefing on all aspects of the expedition.

Days 2-3 in Kathmandu

Two free days in Kathmandu for relaxing, packing and preparing. You can leave any gear which you don't need during the expedition at the hotel. We keep your international air ticket at the office in case any changes need to be made while you are climbing. We can arrange a sightseeing tour, if you wish.

4 - Drive to Zhangmu ~2400m or Nyalam ~3750m

Early in the morning we take a private bus along the Friendship Highway to Kodari where we pass through Nepalese customs then cross the Friendship Bridge and climb to Zhangmu, the Chinese border town. Between the Nepalese and Chinese posts is a huge ever-shifting landslide. Sometimes vehicles can traverse this, sometimes porters have to carry everything. The hotels in Zhangmu are miserable but the Chinese food is authentic. The sherpas sleep on the gear in the back of the truck.

Alternatively: our Land Cruisers and truck climb their way up the precipitous mountain "road to hell " as the Chinese literally call it. Although it is rough and menaced by landslides and one hell of a climb, it is also starkly beautiful in the deep gorge. We will try to reach Nyalam but if there are any landslides on the road then we will only make Zhangmu.

5 - Rest day in Nyalam ~3750m

We relax for one day to aid acclimatization. You are welcome to explore the village and to climb west towards Shishapangma South Face Base Camp, a tough but rewarding day trip.

For the rest of the itinerary I will provide more info later.

The expedition begins in Kathmandu where you meet the guide, crew and team members and our Tibet visa is issued. Then we drive up the Friendship Highway to Zhangmu, the Nepal-Tibet border, where our Chinese liaison officers and Chinese transport meet us. The gear goes by truck while we travel by Landcruiser 4WD. We take time to acclimatize at Nyalam (3750m) and at further stops along the way to Mt Kailash.

We cross the main Himalayan range over the Lalung La (pass: 5150m) then leave the main metal road at the top of one pass and descend into a stunning wide valley then bump up a grassy plain on the route to Kailash. This is a stunning 3-4 day drive. We trek around Kailash, the holiest mountain in Asia for Buddhists and Hindus. More info on this later.

After this trek we will be fully acclimatized to the 5000m altitude and we drive to base camp. Here we stay a day or two then probably use yaks to carry our gear to set up advanced base camp (ABC), which we use for all climbing.

We have plenty of time to explore a bit, decide our route then establish camps on the mountain and climb it. Our highest camp on the mountain is likely to be around 7000m.

After the climb we return to base camp and drive back over about 5 days to Kathmandu.

 

Highlights

little-climbed, be the first from your country

straightforward, fairly safe climbing

2007 Dates

to come

Cost

US$8,850

+$600 for safety deposit (refunded if not used)

Leader

Jamie McGuinness

Mobile: (+977) 98021 49789

Home: (+977 1) 436 0005

Arrival hotel

Hotel Marshyangdi, Thamel

tel: 470 0514, 470 0105

or Hotel Vaishali, Thamel

tel: 470 0935

Local office contact

Explore Himalaya

Navin, Kedar, Samir or Prachandra

tel: 441 8100, 441 8100 9am-6pm

Navin mobile: 98510 04278

Kedar mobile: 98510 64911

Our service includes

airport transfers

5 nights 3 star hotel in Kathmandu, single with breakfast, in the heart of Thamel

all group transportation by private vehicle

entrance fees and permits as needed

Chinese visa and all permits

on expedition:

BC, ABC and mountain services

email, walkie talkies, all meals, all tents,

charging for cameras etc

Chinese visa, permits etc

Our service excludes

insurance, Nepal visas, meals in Kathmandu

personal climbing equipment

emergency evacuation

international flights to Kathmandu, equipment rental, alcohol and soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Professionally lead

The organizer-leader is Jamie McGuinness, backed up with strong sherpas. Jamie and and the sherpas have summitted many 8000m mountains and are experienced mountaineers and have good judgment on peaks this size.

Jamie spends more than 6 months a year trekking and climbing in the Himalaya and is strong at altitude. He has a very good understanding and vast experience of the acclimatization process and is a good communicator and really cares about people, important on a long expedition. We take a consultative approach to decision-making. Jamie is not a qualified mountain guide or a ski guide.

There are several Nepali trekking companies advertising this expedition but they only want to deal with large groups. We are serious about running this expedition in our own good style and already have several people likely to book.

This is taken from the north showing most of possible climbing routes.

 

 

 

Acclimatization

Aside from a good crew, a significant factor for success is good acclimatization. Although initially we get to altitude quickly, we stay at a similar altitude for around 10 days, and so this will be excellent acclimatization.

Experience and fitness

Despite the relatively non-technical nature you MUST have some real mountaineering experience and MUST have been to 6000m before. Although you must be at least moderately fit, your fitness will build remarkably on the mountain. However don't underestimate the difficulty and strength of will required to climb at over 7000m.

Liability

We try our best and we are very responsible, caring  people HOWEVER we are not liable for anything, full stop.

Please read the information and links in the contacting us section on the main expeditions page.

I am interested - what now (Contacting us)?

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