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Gasherbrum II expedition

June-July-August -- Pakistan -- normal route

If you want to climb an 8000m mountain without attempting suicide then your choices are Cho Oyu, Shishapangma (both climbed from Tibet) or perhaps Gasherbrum II climbed from Pakistan.

Gasherbrum II is the 13th highest mountain on the planet and is attributed with an altitude of 8035m.

We offer the best balance of quality and value. We run safe expeditions with a good staff ratios, have radios that always work and have AC power and email-internet at BC; everything you would expect and more!

Itinerary

For a more detailed itinerary see the K2 Concordia trek itinerary. Note that we have friends trekking with us and so will slightly adapt the itinerary on the way in to Gasherbrum Base Camp to stay together.

For more insight into our Pakistan expeditions read Jamie's 2004 Broad Peak dispatches and the 2007 Gasherbrum dispatches.

Day 1 - arrive Islamabad

We meet you at the airport; look for a sign with your name on it.

2 - in Rawalpindi

We stay at the Shalimar Hotel, the usual expedition hotel, with the 5 star Pearl Continental nearby. We finish the expedition paperwork and meet the government-assigned liaison officer.

3 - fly Skardu ~2600m

We either fly to Skardu or start the two day drive there. PIA are notorious for cancelling this flight but there are rumours a private airline will compete, and the landing facilities are to be upgraded too. Fingers crossed!

4 - free day in Skardu

If we flew then we have a free day, otherwise we are still driving...

5 - drive Askhole ~3000m

We take old Landcruiser jeeps to the end of the road and camp.

6-11 - trek to Concordia

This is spectacular but rough trekking and surprisingly hard work. First we follow the (often raging) Braldu river, crossing side glaciers and streams, then we follow and trek on the huge Baltoro Glacier past the photogenic Trango towers and up to Concordia. This is where the glaciers from K2 meet the glaciers from the Gasherbrums, an area surrounded by fearsome peaks. Where we stay is partly determined by the pace of the porters and the weather conditions.

12 - trek to Gasherbrum Base Camp

13-14-15-16 - stay Base Camp

We spend several days acclimatizing and preparing our gear for load carrying. Feeling fit? We start carrying loads higher with an initial day trip or two.

17-44 (28 days) - climbing Gasherbrum II

The expedition leader in discussion with the team members and high altitude porters manages the day to day running of the expedition. There are several different methods to ready for yourself for the summit bid, we will discuss them in detail in base camp.

The basic plan is to take several trips up to around 7000m on the mountain. Logistically, it takes some sound preparation and organization to ensure all the camps are set up with the appropriate supplies. Then we need a window of good weather for the summit attempt and often this is a waiting game.

On the mountain the views of other Karakoram peaks is breath-taking.

Highlights

best balance between quality and value

good team environment

all-inclusive

100% running!

Dates

We might run in 2009?

Cost - US$??00

Deposit: $1500

extra hotel nights $75 double, $65 single?

Leader

Jamie McGuinness

Mobile: (+977) 98021 49789

Home: (+977 1) 436 0005

on trek satellite SMS: +88216 21273393

Arrival hotel

Hotel ??, Islamabad

Local office contact

Adventure Tours Pakistan

House 551, Street 53, G-9/1

Islamabad

Tel: +92-51-226 0820, 225 2759

Our service includes

airport transfers

5 nights 3 star hotel in Islamabad with breakfast

all group transportation by private vehicle

Climbing royalty and liaison officer

Islamabad-Skardu flight / bus

on expedition:

BC and mountain services

email, walkie talkies, all meals, all tents

large single tent at BC

charging for cameras etc

Our service excludes

insurance, Pakistan visa, meals in Rawalpindi

personal climbing equipment

emergency evacuation

international flights to Islamabad, equipment rental, soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Once we have summitted we clear the mountain of our gear and rubbish and head out. We are likely to summit prior to Day 47 but have quite a bit of time to wait out for suitable conditions.

See Mike Farris' 2006 climb diary for a photo of the route.

45-46 - cleaning the mountain and packing

It takes several days to clear all the camps, and bring all our rubbish down and pack everything ready for the porters.

47-51 - trek out to Askhole / Hushe

We trek out over 4-5 days, the route depends on snow conditions. We may return to Askhole, we may cross the Gondogoro La to Hushe.

52 - drive Skardu

53 - fly Islamabad / drive Besham

Again we see if we can fly - fingers crossed - or we will be driving down over two days, probably staying in Besham on the way back.

54 - rest Rawalpindi / drive Rawalpindi

11 August 2007 (latest date) - day 55 - depart

Basically our expedition lasts as long as it takes to summit. We should be back to Rawalpindi by this time and so plan your departure around this time.

L-R: Gasherbrum II 8035m, Gasherbrum I 8068m and Gasherbrum III 7952m (#15) from the true summit of Broad Peak - Jamie

 

Security warning

Islamabad and Rawalpindi are safe for tourists, yes, even Americans and Brits. Skardu and the trek are also safe, as long as you are not a Bush voter; many Pakistanis don't like their leader either and will sympathize! Driving to/from Skardu is OK but we don't want to run over a chicken; anything could happen! I can discuss more.

Warning

We have run many successful and safe expeditions however you must understand this is as real as it gets. We try our best with safety and gear within the limits of the expedition budget but this is 8000m and anything can happen. Even with good gear, good everything, the risk of death is small BUT REAL. There is UNAVOIDABLE avalanche and serac danger. If you haven't climbed to 8000m before you will find the mountain bigger and scarier than you ever imagined.

We try our best and we are very responsible, caring  people HOWEVER we are not liable for anything, full stop.

Attitude

Mentally, you should not be on this expedition unless you think you can climb to the summit, there is a lot of power is positive thinking. At the same time you must be prepared for disappointment; conditions may not be perfect, you may struggle at extreme altitude etc.

This is a professionally lead expedition. Your guide and crew are there to manage the logistics of the expedition not to haul you up the mountain or be personal servants. Your guide is there because he is familiar with the mountain and big expeditions, to assist in being a climbing partner, to make difficult judgment decisions and to generally manage the expedition. Your guide will accompany the team on the majority of the acclimatization trips and will endeavor to summit with you, but this is not a guarantee.

We live together for more than a month so please have consideration for your fellow team members, crew and guide, and other mountaineers. Being polite and reasonable goes a long way, even minor dehydration makes almost anyone surprisingly irritable and intractable).

Experience and fitness

Despite the relatively non-technical nature you MUST have some mountaineering experience and MUST have been to 6000m before. The fitter you are when you arrive the better. You must be at least moderately fit, your fitness will build remarkably on the trek in. Don't underestimate the difficulty and strength of will required to climb at over 7000m.

Insurance

This is your choice. It is sometimes possible to get insurance for 8000m peaks thru your national alpine club - the British Mountaineering council (BMC) has a great policy, although getting more expensive all the time. The cost of emergency evacuation and associated care is not included in the cost of the expedition.

Please read the information and links in the contacting us section on the main expeditions page.

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