8000m essentials

Shishapangma 05

Shishapangma 03 series

2007 DCXP Shishapangma Skills expedition

Our first specific Everest Skills expedition!

So you want to climb Everest? Sound preparation is the key so while climbing an 8000m mountain we also discuss everything Everest, we practice with oxygen sets, we work on your high altitude skills and brush up any mountaineering weaknesses you may have. This expedition will substantially increase your chances on Everest the following season, and as a bonus you get to meet your Everest guide and sherpas.

Shishapangma (8027m/26,335ft) is the 14th highest mountain on the planet, a significant challenge in its own right. Our expedition's aim is to summit, and to learn along the way. Bonus, we also see Lhasa.

This is a quality DCXP Mountain Journeys expedition run with some assistance from Project Himalaya.

Introduction

If you are not an experienced climber then we recommend building up to Everest with:

a basic mountaineering course

more mountaineering experience

a 6000m mountain, perhaps in Nepal or Tibet

a real expedition mountain such as Denali or perhaps Aconcagua

an 8000m peak such as Shishapangma, Cho Oyu or possibly Gasherbrum II / I

then you might be ready for Everest.

BUT a lot of people simply won't commit to this so we run this Shishapangma Skills program for competent people who have plenty of common sense and can listen.

Preparation

Please give yourself enough time in Kathmandu to recover from long flights; also get some exercise on arrival and take vitamins. Pack your bags so that you have a travel pack/bag less than 20kgs for the Lhasa section. You climbing kit bag/s will go direct to base camp. Ensure that your gear in the base camp bag/bags are packed in plastic, ie completely waterproof.

Itinerary

See also our Shishapangma expedition page.

Day 1 - Saturday 1 September 2007 - Arrive Kathmandu 1350m

We meet you at the airport, look for a sign with your name on it.

Days 2-3 in Kathmandu

*One free day, see below; we suggest that you arrive 31 August or before.*

Two free days in Kathmandu for relaxing, packing and preparing. You can leave any gear which you don't need during the expedition at the hotel. We keep your international air ticket at the office in case any changes need to be made while you are climbing. We can arrange a sightseeing tour, if you wish.

4 - fly Lhasa 3660m

Note, we are flying to to Lhasa 3 September, a day earlier than planned. This puts us one day ahead all the way to BC.

We take a morning flight to Lhasa. The altitude is good for starting the acclimatization process, but expect to feel it initially.

5-6 Lhasa 3660m

We play tourist around Lhasa, sightseeing around the main 4 sites including the stunning Potala Palace and Jokhang.

7 - drive Shigatse ~3900m

On the road finally. If we get there in time we might be able to have a look around the Tashilunpo Monastery.

8 - drive Shegar 4350m

This can be a long drive, especially if there are road works.

9 - rest Shegar 4350m

We take a day trip to stretch the legs and aid acclimatization.

10 - drive Shishapangma Base Camp 5000m

Half a day of driving brings us to 'Chinese' base camp. The views of Shishapangma are wonderful from this grassy camp near a stream.

11-12-13 - stay Base Camp 5000m

We spend several days acclimatizing and preparing our equipment for the yaks to carry to Advance Base Camp. There are some superb day trips and we may even make an overnight camping trip, depending on how the weather looks. The itinerary from here on is approximate only. In 2006 we stayed 5 nights at BC including an overnight trek from there.

~14 - trek ABC ~5600m

It is a long days trek to ABC (Advance Base Camp). Yaks do the hard work while we trek carrying only day packs. Everyone will be feeling the altitude but it is amazing how your fitness builds with time. We begin setting up ABC in an ablation valley.

15-16 - ABC

We acclimatize further and have a puja, a ceremony to show respect for the mountain. The puja is held on an auspicious day decided by the sherpas.

17-39 (23 days) climbing Shishapangma

The expedition leader in discussion with the team members and sherpas manages the day to day running of the expedition. The sherpas carry the majority of the equipment to establish the camps leaving us to familiarize ourselves with the mountain and get more acclimatized, a long process. There are several different methods to ready for yourself for the summit bid, we will discuss them in detail on the mountain.

Highlights

Everest summiteer guide

Great sherpa team

All-inclusive, and includes Lhasa

Small teams

2007 dates

1 Sept-16 Oct, 46 days

We finish after summitting

max team size 8 climbers

Cost

US$10,500 including Lhasa

Deposit: $1500

Organizer

Jamie McGuinness

Leader

Eric Remza

with assistance from Jamie 98021 49789

Arrival hotel

Hotel Marshyangdi, Thamel

tel: 470 0514, 470 0105

or Hotel Vaishali, Thamel

tel: 470 0935

Local office contact

Explore Himalaya

Navin, Kedar, Samir or Prachandra

Tel 441 8100, 441 8100 9am-6pm

Navin mobile: 98510 04278

Kedar mobile: 98510 64911

Our service includes

Airport transfers

5 nights 3 star hotel in Kathmandu, single with breakfast, in the heart of Thamel

All group transportation by private vehicle

Entrance fees and permits as needed

Chinese visa and all permits

Kathmandu-Lhasa flight

on expedition:

BC, ABC and mountain services

email, walkie talkies, all meals, all tents,

charging for cameras etc

Chinese visa, permits etc

Our service excludes

Insurance, Nepal visas, meals in Kathmandu

Personal climbing equipment

Emergency evacuation

International flights to Kathmandu, equipment rental, alcohol and soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

The basic plan is to spend 3-4 days at ABC then take a 6-7 day trip up on the mountain sleeping as high as Camp 2, 7100m. Logistically, it takes some sound preparation and organization to ensure all the camps are set up with the appropriate supplies. Then we need a window of good weather for the summit attempt and often this is a waiting game.

From Camp 3, 7500m, we have a spectacular view that stretches way into the distance to the north and also we can see Everest and Cho Oyu.

Summit route options

Summit day means a very early start. We are aiming for the Central or Main summit, depending on conditions - yours and the mountain's.

40-41 - cleaning the mountain

It takes several days to clear all the camps.

42 - packing ABC

More packing! Occasionally we can arrange for the climbers to leave ahead of the expedition leader and sherpas. We judge at the time.

43 - trek BC, drive Nyalam/Zhangmu

We pack everything else for the yaks to hump down. The idea is to trek to BC then get the truck and Landcruisers there in the afternoon, heading to Nyalam or even Zhangmu. Back to thicker air!

44 - drive Kathmandu

We should arrive in Kathmandu late afternoon or evening ready to enjoy the good restaurants.

Day 45 - Kathmandu

Time for a good relaxing and shopping and to celebrate the expedition.

Tuesday 16 October 2007 (latest date) - day 46 - departure

Basically our expedition lasts as long as it takes to summit. We should be back to Kathmandu by this time and so plan your departure around this time.