Our treks  Expeditions Contact us  About us  Photos & Diaries
  • Expedition essentials

Preparing for Everest

Read our thoughts on this

So you want to climb Everest? Sound preparation is the key.

** this page is a work in progress **

Introduction

If you are not an experienced climber then we recommend a progressive build up to Everest with:

a 7-12 day TMC - technical mountaineering course

more mountaineering experience soon after the course

a high altitude trek or better a 6000m/20,000ft mountain in the Himalaya

Aconcagua, Denali (or similar) or a 6400m+/21,000ft mountain in the Himalaya

an 8000m peak such as Shishapangma or Cho Oyu (or possibly Gasherbrum II or Manaslu)

then you should be ready for Everest. This progression really is the most thorough way to prepare, and we do recommend this.

Our fast track way

BUT a lot of people simply won't commit to this progression so if you are confident in your abilities we run an 8000m prep program for competent people who have plenty of common sense and can listen.

First you MUST:

complete a basic/technical mountaineering course or have real mountaineering skills

have trekking/mountaineering altitude experience to at least 4300m/14,000ft

be reasonably fit, especially good cardio fitness

Note this is NOT a climbing instruction course for complete novices, rather it is a fast track expedition to get onto the 8000m mountains quickly.

Normal itinerary

 

Day 1 - arrive Kathmandu 1350m

 

Highlights

Almost

 

T

Climbers say

Thank you for your good leadership for Kang Guru expedition.

Anne-Mari Hyryl�inen, 8000m Preparation Expedition to Kangguru, 2008

I enjoyed Phil's company and his way to share his big experience in climbing.
Hope I see you guys in the future in a new exp that you run! with the same sherpa crew, they were so good.

Peter Adolfson, Sweden, 8000m Preparation Expedition to Kangguru 2008

The expedition was good.  It would have been nice to summit if the weather and mountain would have been cooperative, but that's all part of mountaineering.  ...  The food, Sherpas, support staff and Phil were great.

Rusty S, USA, 8000m Preparation Expedition to Kangguru 2008

We cover

With sometimes tightly focused lectures, sometimes wide-ranging discussions, we want to answer all your questions about climbing 8000m mountains.

+ use of a PAC bag

+ oxygen discussion and practice

+ first aid kit assembly

+ basic cramponing and climbing techniques

+ using fixed ropes and abseiling

+ acclimatization

+ Nepal-Tibet health

+ camp management

+ climbing equipment and personal camping equipment

and more...

Note that we cover climbing on fixed ropes, and issues surrounding this. We do NOT necessarily cover in detail other alpine climbing-style techniques such as technical crevasse rescue or placing rock and alpine protection. Join a course run by a UIAGM guides for professional instruction on these techniques.

Comparing Aconcagua and Tukuche 8000m Preparation expeditions

There are real differences...

Aconcagua 8000m Preparation Expedition

We are running a very good Aconcagua expedition and also comprehensively discuss Everest and other Himalayan and Karakoram peaks. We don't actually do any real hands on training, it is only discussions, both structured and unstructured.

By the end of the expedition you will know which side of Everest or which other 8000m peak will suit, understand all the different operator choices (we are unbiased, honestly!), exactly what gear you need and what further steps are needed.

Aconcagua is much more of a trek up than real mountaineering; while we have crampons with us, we may not use them, and we don't use fixed ropes either. Additionally we are not in Nepal experiencing how Himalayan expeditions are run, and don't have sherpa assistance.

We do comprehensively cover acclimatization to altitude, and the time spent on the mountain, plus the altitude fitness is definitely beneficial to your next high altitude expedition.

This is a cheaper expedition, and good value compared with other international operators, especially considering we are on the most interesting route.

There is little change in time zones with North America, so easier travelling.

To go to Everest you will also need to have climbed Denali or a 6000m (or higher) peak in Nepal or Tibet.

Tukuche 8000m Preparation Expedition

We really focus on making sure you are ready for Everest after this expedition, which mountain we are climbing is almost incidental.

In addition to structured discussions we offer some hands-on training, especially using fixed ropes, and there is plenty of real mountaineering, using crampons and tools, camping in the same style as big peaks too. We also play with a Poisk oxygen system.

The expedition is a good chance to test your Everest gear, and some or all of it can be left in Nepal which saves carrying gear around the world.

Our sherpa team is the same as on Everest and other big mountains, so you really do get to meet them, climb with them and understand how Himalayan expeditions operate. Also you are in Nepal getting used to the hygiene here, getting to know your way around this Asian country.

Similar to Aconcagua, there is a real benefit to spending time at real altitude and we plan to camp - sleep - at around 6800m or more, so higher than Camp 2 on the south side of Everest.

The best preparation for Everest is an 8000m peak such as Cho Oyu, Shishapangma or Manaslu but they take 45 days and upwards. The Tukuche preparation expedition is 34 days and there is a 4 week option too, and by the end you really could be ready for Everest.

 

The...

click for the top of the page

jdesign -- all rights reserved --  2010

 

Mount Everest.net link click to go to the top of the page