April-May-June -- Tibet -- standard NE ridge route
"It is not the mountains we conquer, but ourselves" - Hillary
Above, Makalu from near the First Step
We provide full guide-assisted support including
all tents, all meals at BC and on the mountain, all oxygen, good walkie talkies, better than 1:1 sherpa
to keep your sponsors and family happy and up to date, all
managed by Jamie McGuinness who has summitted Everest four times previously, and ten other 8000m summits.
Most importantly we have a very good safety record, no deaths and only one case of frostbite in someone who refused to turn around, see our 8000m history.
We also have a good summit record, everyone who was capable of summiting did (except 2011 due to weather); logistics were never the problem. We really understand all the altitude issues, and work as a team
on the climb, have great meals and a clean kitchen. Jamie is a weather forecasting "guru" according to a dozen teams in the last 2 years. We are not the most expensive, or the most
publicized, instead we just try to run good, low key expeditions.
The 2012 South side Everest season had real problems, "the mountain has been dangerously alive," said
Freddie Wilkinson. The north side is not nearly as dangerous from a rock fall and avalanche point of view.
international flights, equipment rental, alcohol and soft drinks, laundry,
tipping and other items of a personal nature
allow $200-300 (total from you) for general non-sherpa crew
Day 1 - Wednesday 8 April 2015 - arrive Kathmandu 1350m
We meet you at the airport, look for a sign with your name on
Days 2-3 in Kathmandu
Two free days in Kathmandu for relaxing, packing and preparing. You can
leave any gear which you don't need during the expedition at the hotel. We can arrange a sightseeing tour, if you wish.
Day 4 - drive Zhangmu ~2400m
We take a private bus along the Friendship Highway to Kodari where we pass through Nepalese customs then cross the
Friendship Bridge and climb to Zhangmu, the Chinese border town.
5 - drive Nyalam 3750m
This is a short but spectacular drive to the next town to acclimatize.
6 - rest day in Nyalam 3750m
An acclimatization day...
7 - drive Shegar - 4300m
A spectacular day as we cross the main Himalayan range, driving over the 5150m Lalung La. If the weather is clear the
views are absolutely superb, including Shishapangma, Cho Oyu and Everest.
8 - rest day Shegar - 4300m
We take a day trip up to the fort, spectacular and great for acclimatization too.
9 - drive Everest Base Camp 5150m
10-15 - acclimatize at Everest BC
Depending on the weather, we may explore around BC (there are
some fun places to camp at) for around a week, or move up to ABC more quickly.
16-21 - first acclimatization to ABC
We take a trek up to Interim camp 5650m for two nights, then to ABC 6380m for three nights to start acclimatizing to higher altitudes. Then we return to BC for a few days rest.
22-24 - Base Camp 5150m
25-33 - second acclimatization to North Col
We trek up, this time probably one night at Interim, 3 nights at ABC then climb and camp on North Col for 3 nights. After this we again return to BC.
34-55 (latest) climbing
Now it is a waiting game for the weather. Once the weather looks good then we will head up for our summit climb. We try to summit as a team but can break into two teams if necessary.
56 - ABC packing
57 - trek to BC
58 - drive Kathmandu
59 - Kathmandu
Day 60 - Saturday 6 June - depart
This is probably the latest day that the expedition will finish on; we will wind
everything up once everyone has had a chance to attempt the summit.
North Col bathed in moonlight - Jamie McGuinness
Here is a 10 minute video made by Philippe Gatta on our 2007 Everest expedition. Philippe was a strong climber and summitted with Namgyal and Ngima Chhiri
on a windy day. The rest of the team opted to summit later, and summitted 12 days later as it turned out.
Why go with us?
We have been safe and successful multiple times, providing the
best possible summit success chance (no compromises) at a value price. Everything we have works, and works well. We have great radios
with extra batteries and they even take AA batteries, so never run out. Our
laptops work, we have power for charging cameras etc sorted out, and the best weather
forecasts. We have consistent leadership and our sherpas are
loyal, organized and honest, and have worked with Jamie many times on 8000m
peaks, including Everest half a dozen times. We have good relations with all the administrative
staff, and especially the liaison officers, and have a proven record of
Summitting Everest later in May always safer. First, it is warmer, it is scary to
think how many people get frostbite by summitting early, including in the big commercial expeditions. Second, if the weather has already been good then the zoo is over. Third, if the jet stream winds do not stop until very late in the season, we can
still climb, we still have time and strength and have not been waiting forever.
expeditions have had to leave the mountain before they ever had a chance to
mount a summit push.
The other big debate is about how long to spend on the expedition. This is a balance
of taking enough time to get strong, but not deteriorate significantly, and has many tricks to it, we
will discuss as part of the expedition.
1:1 climbing sherpa
In our normal expedition you carry your personal equipment between camps: sleeping bag,
mattress/s, down suit, snacks, clothing while the sherpas carry the meals, gas, stoves, tents and
oxygen. This split suits fit mountaineers. The team members and guide climb together between camps
while the climbing sherpas stock the camps mostly separately. For the summit push
the climbing sherpas, guide and team members climb together, with one sherpa assigned to
each member for the summit climb, critical for safety. This is a good level of service, and suits most
Additional climbing sherpa and high flow oxygen
For extra security an additional climbing sherpa can be useful, along with extra oxygen. They can assist in carrying some of your personal
gear between camps (generally carrying your sleeping bag and snacks) and climb with you all the time. Note that they don't necessarily trek with
you when we head back to base camp as then they assist with getting your extra oxygen in place.
The extra oxygen allows you 8x 4 litre bottles, so you are able to start climbing from North Col (7000m) on oxygen. One climbing sherpa will
climb with you to the summit for sure.
We are happy to handle film teams and certain other projects.
We have separate western leaders available.
Want to see our Everest expedition on film?
Jamie was the climbing director for the Everest Peace Project's
Everest expedition in 2006 and the resulting documentary, "Everest - a Climb for
Peace" is definitely worth watching. See the
Everest Peace Project
website. We had rather more drama on that expedition than on any other to date.
What is included
We pick you up at the airport and provide a single hotel room so you can
spread gear out.
Because we provide all tents, oxygen, dehy meals on the mountain etc, you should be able to get to
Kathmandu without extra freight charges.
We handle all the paperwork for the Chinese visa and all the Tibet travel and
Base Camp and ABC
At base camp we have a permanent kitchen with cook and helpers, large dining
tent and smaller ones as required, radio contact with ABC and camps on the
mountain, and internet. We provide 1 BC tent per member (a two-three person
three good meals a day and afternoon tea, plus all hot drinks and boiled water
for drinking. At ABC we provide the same.
We have good solar power systems providing 12v, 115v and 230v, so you can charge
all smart phone, digital cameras, video cameras, battery packs, tablets and laptops.
At base camp we provide free internet thorugh the mobile phone network.
All mountain tents and meals, gas and
stoves are included. Fixed rope charges are included. The sherpas are
responsible for stocking all the camps; carrying the oxygen, tents, gas and
meals. They normally climb separately from the team until the summit push. The
sherpas don't carry your personal gear (but you can pay extra for a personal
We climb on the mountain mostly as a team or two with the guide and assistant
guide(/s). You can climb up to North Col alone as well though.
We use Poisk oxygen and will have up to 5x 4 litre bottles available for each
climber. We include sherpa oxygen separately.
With good internet we have access to a variety of weather reports, and we
subscribe to paid weather forecasts too. Judging the weather is one of the most
important issues surrounding climbing Everest. When not on 8000m peaks, Jamie has forecast for friend's expeditions on K2, the Gasherbrums, Manaslu, Everest, Dhaulagiri, Makalu,
Shishapangma and Kanchenjunga with uniform praise "the single most valuable forecast".
We provide updates using our own website so regardless of whether you have your own or not your
family and friends will know what is happening. You will be amazed at the level of interest. See our
We have a comprehensive medical kit at BC and ABC. You should be prepared
with a small personal med kit for on the mountain. Jamie is used to dealing with
altitude issues and intestinal problems and other minor medical issues.
We have emergency oxygen at ABC and
BC, plus full medical kits. If you have to leave the mountain early
alone or as two people then there will be a charge of approx $800-1000. If you are a group
of three or four then there is unlikely to be a charge but it may be a while
before your baggage arrives in Kathmandu.
We remove all garbage from ABC to BC, and this includes toilet waste. This is
then disposed of by the Chinese. We plan to remove toilet waste from at least
North Col too.
Although we all travel in together, you can leave separately provided you are
3-4 climbers travelling together. There is a $25 per person visa separation fee (as we are on a group visa).
This is your choice. It is sometimes possible to get insurance for 8000m
peaks thru your national alpine club; the BMC in the UK and American Alpine Club offer particularly
good packages, or thru companies such as IHI, linked from the Contact us page. There is no reliable helicopter rescue possible in Tibet so
normally evacuation is
by Landcruiser to Kathmandu. There is one
particularly good clinic in Kathmandu otherwise the nearest high standard
hospital is Singapore or Bangkok. All our Nepali staff are insured.
Langtang trek warm up
If your fitness isn't as good as you would like then going for a trek prior to
Everest helps. This could be trekking the south side of Everest (14-17 days actual trekking) but the
issue is the flight out, and there is a chance that you could be delayed for several days, and if
that does happen, it is a major problem. It is safer to plan a trek to Langtang, where the access is
You are welcome to teahouse trek Langtang by yourself but it also makes sense to trek with
one of the climbing sherpas, to get to know them, and they will help with the arrangements too. You
simply pay them a daily wage ( US$25 split between however many of you go) and pay your own way in
the lodges, so it is a real budget trip. I would suggest a trip of 10 days actual travelling and
trekking, and that gives a couple of days up at the 4000m lodge village of Kyangjin, so day trips to
higher altitudes are possible.
Everest is the highest mountain on the planet and despite some of the
publicity it is not "easy" or even "straightforward". It is a very serious peak
and bad judgment or even bad luck can be fatal up there. Even with the best
companies, including us, the risk of frostbite / death is real.